Wish me luck...

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Terry Smith, Aug 13, 2021.

  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    How do you know all this stuff...damn!! This forum rocks. I am eagerly awaiting your travel review if and when you get to ride.
     
  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Brilliant, thanks Captain.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I've given up on that idea unfortunately; the whole country is in stay-at-home lockdown, so I decided to get the bike shipped instead.

    I did a more adventurous pick-up in 2019, buying a 2009 ST1300 at the opposite end of the country, and riding that home over a couple of days and a ferry ride. Actually prettty easy on that one as it came with full luggage and as anyone with the ST knows, they eat long distances easily.

    IMG_0052.jpg
     
  4. raYzerman

    raYzerman Member

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    Wow, I had one of those! Still active in the ST-O sandbox.
     
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  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Hi Captain, we're in stay at home lock-down, my newly acquired 86 VFR750F is still sitting 800km away and I've got time on my hands. I have managed to secure indicators that have come off the JDM VFR, plus a single seat cowl, and these are creeping through our courier system now. The stickers on the top cowl are for the JDM market and I suspect the cowl may be a replacement sourced second hand from Japan, although I know by the registration details that the bike was sold new locally.

    The front indicators I bought are teardrop embedded style, the rears are standard black. Hopefully these will all fit nicely, if not well they weren't expensive.

    upload_2021-8-28_15-51-15.jpeg upload_2021-8-28_15-51-30.jpeg

    So I will end up with this (hopefully):
    upload_2021-8-28_15-52-55.jpeg

    My recollection of the last 86 VFR that I owned is that the front end is a bit weedy. I just so happen to have a complete Frankenstein front end from previous projects; 99 5G triples and fender, 41mm VTR1000F forks, 6G VFR front wheel/discs/axle, and a nice set of 600F4 calipers and a 600RR master. These all fit together like Mr Honda intended them. You can probably see where I'm going here, as I know the head bearings are the same on the 86 VFR and the 5G, so maybe a transplant will be reasonably easy?

    The one bit I have no clue about is adapting a cable speedo drive to a wheel that never had one. Is this something you've dealt with before? From looking at the parts fiche I can see the speedo drive ring sits over the wheel bearing and is retained by the dust seal, and prevented from rotating by small lugs projecting into pockets on the wheel. The OD of the drive ring looks to be just a hair smaller than the 6G dust seal pocket so I'm thinking this could fit, with a little dremel action for the locating lugs. Of course if this all works out there could still be the matter of the axle spacer sizing, but the axle diameter looks common too (20mm id bearings in both).

    What do you think? Do-able or dumb? If not, I may just save the front end for my next 5G purchase....

    upload_2021-8-28_15-49-24.jpeg
     
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    That front end would be very nice on there. The only change to make it bolt on is to source a 88 or 89 VFR Lower triple. They are 41mm, aluminum, and the steering stops are made for the frame. I've done it and they are perfect. I then bought another for a future 86 VFR project. This is assuming that the upper triple clamps have the same dimensions and everything else will play nice. What rear wheel then?

    I have seen later counter shaft driven speedos adapted from VFRs onto earlier machines. Might be something to check out if going that front end route.

    I have done some looking into those front signals before. You will need to remove the added on section of the cowl that reduces it down to the stay shaped hole. I have a slightly broken up cowl I was going to experiment on, and if it worked good, finish the repairs, but I stalled on that project. Too much other shit going on.

    Edit: Just re-read your post and looked at the picture. Looks like you might have the correct opening already? That would be cool! I would still put the shortest rear stays on, those look a little wonky.
     
  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Thanks for the comments Captain. It is frustrating to not have the bike to hand to closely inspect! Blowing up the photos I can see lines that might be the indicator hole inserts, but also I think I see the structure within that the blinkers mount to, part of the fairing not part of the stay bracket, but who knows???

    I have measured my forks and they appear to be quite a bit shorter than stock, 770mm from the circlip ring to the axle centreline for my Frankenfork, but maybe 825mm for the 750 (estimating from photos). Seems like too big of a difference? I know I can slide the tubes down and use a conventional handlebar to gain maybe 30mm.

    The countershaft-drive speedo on my 800 used an electrical pulse so no physical cable. Not sure how to get that to play with the 750 cable drive? That's why I was hoping to just add the cable drive to the 800 wheel.

    Edit: I see the RC36 uses a speedo cable drive off the countershaft!
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2021
  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    That length is no problem. I run CBR600F2 forks on my last 86 VFR build. They are 780mm in length I think, top of tube to center of axle (VFR is 835). On top of that my rear Fox is +20mm from stock. The bike is rock solid, no twitchiness at all and I can ride no hands at any speed, even deceleration, with out any shake.

    With that fender you will have zero clearance issues. Even the super tall funky F2 fender doesn't foul with the oil cooler with proper springs.

    The c/s speedo is another little project I want to explore, but other things have taken priority. I don't run a speedo on a couple bikes, doesn't really bother me, and I don't have to be inspected.
     
  9. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Thanks for the encouraging reply. Back in the day I also had a super tall Fox shock and that caused no handling issues, as the VFR comes stock with fairly lazy geometry.

    What rear wheel should I be looking for that is a similar style and is the least drama to fit to the stock RC24 swingarm/brake/sprocket? I'm not bothered by tyre width, the 130/80 stock or 140/70 will be plenty, and the front end will use get a nice 120/70.

    Do you happen to know if the RC36 countershaft cover uses the same geometry as the RC24? It looks slightly different along the rear edge, probably to mate nicely with the frame, but otherwise my guess is that it is the same. I will definitely need a functioning speedo as it is illegal to ride without one and therefore any insurance is void.

    upload_2021-8-31_8-56-42.jpeg upload_2021-8-31_8-56-42.jpeg
     
  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Having front and rear wheels the same size is unsatisfactory for me. F2 (4.5") or F3 (5.0") are the easiest, somewhat match that wheel and get you a perfect fitting 160 modern radial to go with your new front radial set-up. 14mm left side spacer with the CBR sprocket carrier gets you factory wheel center. Technically by measurements the sprocket would then be about 2mm too far outboard, but on some VFRs it lines up anyway (I've found every bike can be a little different). On one of mine I just flipped the CBR sprocket around as it is "dished" about that amount and it was perfect. Eventually I will mount a hub on the lathe and take a couple mm off the sprocket mount face for brainless future proof sprocket changes.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The hardest part is deciding how to handle the rear brake. I have done 4 different approaches and am happy to talk about them if needed.
     
  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It sure looks like that c/s cover has the right dimensions. I might try and find the cheapest one to see.
     
  12. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I decided to take a punt on this and ordered the sprocket cover, speedo drive, cable and cable gearbox at the speedo; not sure I need the latter but figured there may be a different reduction for the drive off the sprocket vs a wheel. Parts are coming from the local wrecker where I got the seat cowl, not too expensive (US$70).

    I heard from the bike carrier this morning and as our lockdown levels changed last night he is back operating, so I may see the bike by the end of next week.

    What is your recommendation for the rear shock? I know you have a YSS in at least one of your bikes and that looks like an attractively priced option if they are good. I've also dealt with Hagon in the UK and they were good to deal with. After that I'll be thinking about the rear wheel project, please clarify the brake options.
     
  13. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I will detail some brake options in another post when I have more time. But the one pictured above is the closest you'll get to "bolt on", with only one custom spacer required (If I remember correctly... I have notes). It uses a Triumph rotor that has the same outside diameter as stock and the same bolt pattern as F2/3, allowing the use of the existing caliper and bracket.

    Regarding the shock, generous separate ride height adjustability is the key as you would really want plus 10mm at least. I have been very happy with the YSS I have installed (3 bikes now). From the behemoth VF1000R to a Hawk GT, they seem to be sprung and damped pretty nicely, and they don't break the bank. Pretty nice to look at too. On the street I am not pushing those bikes hard enough to truly justify a remote-res shock design, don't think I will experience any fade.

    Please keep us posted on the speedo drive. I almost ordered one, but had a feeling you'd go there first. We don't have any true breakers anywhere near where I live, so I'd be piecing it together from eBay, with separate shipping for everything likely.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2021
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  14. straycat

    straycat Member

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    Well, I gotta say this, I applaud your politicians /PM to have the backbone to lock down FAST and deal with the COVID19 issues. No F*&King about with your PrimeMinister. Our PM and provincial Premiere's are spineless jellyfish, interested in their own political futures and not public health. They react, they dont lead, and only do something when its too late and there are no other choices.....dollar short and a day late here.

    Carry On..
     
  15. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Wow at least you all don't live in Texas like I do.

    I think the Taliban must have moved into the Governors' mansion while were were not looking! Y'all stay safe out there!
     
  16. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Well, that would be one take on it. Personally I think the sudden lockdown was the only option available as the infection came out of the government-run quarantine hotel system and into a population that is woefully under-vaccinated. The rate of jabs now is pretty good, but we've been really late starting so elimination really has been the only option, and free travel to NZ has been cut-off completely since March last year barring a brief opening to Australia (which didn't end well, this is where the current outbreak started). I'm glad that I don't work in hospitality or tourism as those businesses are truly struggling for survival. Meantime our government are happily printing money and dishing it out to prop people up while using spin-doctors to make us feel like it is all going swimmingly. Winston Churchill was quoted as saying "never let a good crisis go to waste", it is clear that this is writ large in the PM's office.
     
  17. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Got the parts today...still don't have the bike (possibly end of next week). It will be interesting to compare the calculated revs from the countershaft though the various gearboxes to the speedo. On first glance (as in just playing with the bits) it looks like the system actually will spin the speedo drive at more than 1:1.

    Getting my calculator out, I worked out that for each front wheel revolution a distance of 1.89m is covered, but with the back wheel plus gearing the distance is 5.88m, so the countershaft speedo drive will hopefully gear this up by at least 3x compared to the parts for the standard drive (or the speedo will be woefully inaccurate).
    IMG_2343.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2021
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  18. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    This will be interesting. Thanks for the effort so far!
     
  19. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Since I own a VFR can I visit Terry down in NZ? :) We really want to visit NZ again. Wonder if it is hard to import vehicles?
    Highjack...mwhahahaa:emporer:
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I don't want to travel anywhere right now. People are nuts.
     
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