Which parts do you paint, powdercoat, or Cerakote?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Bazza, Feb 19, 2025.

  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Maybe I should step out of my comfort zone and buy some colors. I just always end up with orange peel. Clear only keeps my peel to a minimum.
     


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  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I actually shot this fender with plain ol Rustoleum rattle can. Think it was Cherry Red (?). No sanding between coats. No clear coat. No final polish. In person, actually a pretty good match for Fighting Red.

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    #22
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  3. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    The guy I bought my '84 RC15 from does painting for a living. This was an originally RED RC15 and when he got it, he removed all the RED fairing parts and re-painted WHITE, which I guess was a primer. When I asked him why he re-painted - he said the paint job on the bike (RED) was a re-paint and not very well done - and he was going to re-paint RED again, but the right way.

    So this is how the bike arrived.....

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    With these.....

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    So I just reassembled as is - and added a tank I had (it came with no tank).......

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    One day, I'd love to get her back to her original livery.........

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  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    This is usually how I spray out of a can, color and clear. It works for me (I think it shows), maybe not for everybody.

    Most of my shit is very hard to paint. Fenders, wheels (FUCKING 6 spoke wheels), crankcase covers, etc. Multi angle surfaces, nooks, crannies, lots of places for overlap and runs.

    1st coat is almost a mist. I want it a little splotchy and light. Good adhesion for the first coat and a nice texture for the next coat to grab on to. I'm starting to experiment with my plan for coverage and finals.

    2nd coat is almost the same but I'm looking for areas that were bound to be missed because the 1st coat was so quick and light. This is where I'm re-evaluating my plan.

    Now I'm really thinking about my pattern, possible overlaps, ensuring coverage, and where my final passes are gonna be. What is the most visible when mounted. Extend past edges before stopping, or veer away if not possible. You don't want to just stop or reverse course while still on your piece.

    3rd coat I'm definitely laying some more paint and working on my pattern.

    4th coat (if needed after inspection or if I'm not sure about my attack... often is needed) is moderate again. Making sure there are no light spots for my final glamour shots.

    5th coat (possibly last). Now you have to lay some product. Deliberate, medium speed passes. Just thick enough to for it to flow, not so much paint it runs.

    Every paint I use lays out different. The small, expensive Duplicolor lacquers are thin, easy to run. The Wheel Coatings are a little thicker and more forgiving. If it's chassis hardware (including wheels), I usually opt for a Silver, Charcoal or a Black because of this. And they are a way better value. Sometimes I just gotta have a certain color.

    PXL_20250107_021031894.jpg

    The clear coat is pretty much the same, but now I have a pattern worked out (?), and identified the problem areas due to overlap. That first mist coat is key here as well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2025


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    #24
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  5. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Good insight. Now that I have a carport, I might be able to seal it up a bit to use as a paint booth for larger pieces (wheels?).
     


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  6. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Speaking of 6 spoke wheels.....the Blue bike currently on my lift table has them...front and back . 17" They look awful too so will need to be repainted.

    IMG_6985.JPG
     


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  7. Captain 80s

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    At some point, I would like to see some details on this, specifically the conversion. Always interested in what the approach was and if it was done correctly.

    Likely the front wheel has had the disc landings machined down 5-6 mm on each side and I believe it needs the speedo drive modified. Looking straight on, confirm the discs are the same distance from the lower fork sliders.

    Perhaps this is an early conversion and the rear brake caliper bracket has been sectioned and re-welded.

    Appears to have a Works Performance shock. They are pretty decent, made in the US. The daughter re-opened the business (Now Worx I think) and I believe they will service the legacy shocks.
     


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  8. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Happy to share when I remove the wheels - hopefully soon because I need the table for the next Blue bike.....
     


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  9. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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  10. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Last April, I picked up some parts from a local seller. Before leaving I asked if he had anything else that came from the bike. He came out with these 4 calipers in a box.

    I still have them but am not sure I will have a use for them. I guess the paint could be removed...but they didn't come with any pistons or other hardware. I could see a Yellow bike...but painting the brake calipers to match? A bit too much for me! :)

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  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    No..... Just.... no
     


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  12. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Only thing I can think of is put 'em up on eBay for cheap. Or remove the paint and use them to experiment with using DIY Cerakote or whatever. But yeah...no way I'd put money into getting them up to functionality again.
     


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