Wheel conversions for 1986-1987

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by adam_in_48060, May 8, 2007.

  1. Jobiwan

    Jobiwan New Member

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    ... a question...

    We have a lot of older Triumphs here (by older - I mean 1993-95 vintage Trophie 900 etc) - these came with 17" fronts and 18" rears - they are really nice looking tri/six spoke designs that have a look similar to the 86 VFR wheels.

    Sizes are: front 17 x 3.50 & rear 18 x 4.60 (Front Tyre 120/70 VR17 & Rear Tyre 160/60 VR18)
    Triumph Trophy 900 92  1.jpg
    Triumph-Trident-900.jpg

    Would the be a good choice to avoid geometry changes (drop forks 1/2") and retain looks? - or, would I still be stuck for tyre choice/radials vs crossply?

    These seem to be the only 4 choices for the rear:
    Dunlop Roadsmart 2
    Michelin Pilot Road 2
    Pirelli Angel GT
    Michelin Pilot Road 3


    The 91-94 model Trophy 1200's had 120/70 ZR17 & Rear Tyre 180/55 ZR17 (cant seem to find these actual rim specs either atm...) - would these be better?
    View attachment 32186
    Triumph-Trophy-1200-Left-Side.jpg

    A quick mock up...
    86-VFR750F_w_93-Trident_wheels.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2015
  2. Gaspeddlers

    Gaspeddlers New Member

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  3. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    There isn't much reason to get a narrow 17" as you'd still be limited to a small number of bias ply tires. If you wanna do a wheel swap, you should get a 17 that is wide enough for a radial tire. Then you'll have a wide range of tires to choose from.

    Plus that orange rim is bent. I'd pass for sure on that one. You'll feel a tiny wobble or flat spot and you'll want to ditch that rim for a straight one. Been there and done that.
     
  4. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    That's exactly right. I often have to remind people that a 17in wheel is not (necessarily) magic - it's the fact that you can get modern radial tires that makes the difference. The only way to get there is with a 3.5in wide wheel in this case a CBR600F2.
     
  5. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    My wheel conversion. (Admittedly not YOUR wheel conversion.)

    IMG00446-20111017-1302.jpg
     
  6. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    My rear wheel conversion accommodates a 6-inch tire. I could run a 190. Still, I ride a 180. Works great. Nimble.
     
  7. JasonWW

    JasonWW New Member

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    Wrong section. This is for the 86-87 bikes.
     
  8. wpbarlow

    wpbarlow New Member

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    Couple of wheel questions re a 1984 VF1000F


    1) anyone put VF1000R wheels on an F?
    2) anyone put the wheels from a CX500/650 Turbo on an F? It looks like the same design that was put on the F in some other markets; but I don't know if it's an exact match.

    Edit: brain fade-- the CX has different sized rims.

    So I guess I'd be limited to sourcing them from one of the countries where they came stock on the VF.


    tia,
    Walter
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2017
  9. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    R and F wheels are a direct interchange, no modifications needed.
     
  10. wpbarlow

    wpbarlow New Member

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    Best news I got today.

    thanks again.
    Walter
     
  11. Mark Peffer

    Mark Peffer New Member

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    I recently picked up a completely stock '87 VFR700. Already have a nice set of front & rear F2 rims. If I don't modify the rear shock / linkages, what are your thoughts as to me using 160/70-17 rear and 120/60-17 front tires? My thinking is that those sizes would be closer to the OEM 16/18" rim diameters. Appreciate your advise.
     
  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    If you simply install the

    52470-ML7-000
    ARM ASSY., SHOCK ABSORBER
    (The piece the lower shock bolts to)

    From the 86, then it is compensated. They are plentiful and easy to install. Then you can run the common and easy to find 160/60.

    If you are getting ready to do a wheel swap, you've got some work ahead of you and this is probably the easiest part.

    120/60 or 120/70 both good choices. You simply slide the forks up in the triples a bit to compensate for the new 17" diameter.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2023
  13. Mark Peffer

    Mark Peffer New Member

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    Thanks so much for the info. I wasn't aware of that there was a difference in shock linkages between thje '86-'87 models. I'm assuming that the '86 linkage increases the rear ride hieght a bit, correct?
     
  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Correct. The 87 shock is 10mm longer than 86 and they changed that linkage piece to compensate.

    Friend's 87 with a 17" swap and it worked great. Conversely, one of my 86 with a Euro 17" rear VFR wheel, I put an 87 shock on.

    20190424_171147.jpg
     
  15. Mark Peffer

    Mark Peffer New Member

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    Thanks again for the info regarding the linkage. I did acquire one from an '86 for my '87, and will install when I do the F2 swap. I've found some info here regarding spacers, but some of it conflicts. I now have a set of F2 rims, and a new rear rotor designed to fit a Triumph Bonnieville (diameter same as stock VFR, bolt pattern same as F2 rim), so plan to use the OEM VFR rear caliper and arm. Does anyone sell spacer kits for this job? If not, any solid source of info for the spacer dimensions?
     
  16. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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  17. Chris71Mach1

    Chris71Mach1 Insider

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    I'm just surprised (and kinda confused) that nobody's actually made a video (IE, youtube or something) to detail the wheel conversion process and/or compiled a comprehensive parts list required for this project.
     
  18. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I essentially did if you read everything in my Brake sticky. Between that and the Wheel Conversion sticky, all the info is there. But nobody wants to take the time to write out a parts list and game plan for themselves before starting.

    Part of the problem is there are many paths to a very similar result. Interest is waning. And everyone is gung-ho until they realize that there is some real custom machining involved in every scenario. There is not a "bolt on" path. Then they fade away, never to be heard from again. Seen it DOZENS of times.
     
    atx and Thumbs like this.
  19. Mark Peffer

    Mark Peffer New Member

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    As to F2 front rim modification,, Planning to have a machinist remove 6mm of material at both sides of the rotor mounting points. Is it problem to remove the disc locating "tabs"? Thinking that the shouldered mounting bolts are what actually hold the disk and keep it centered, but I could be wrong. Thinking that if the tabs are machined away during the removal of the 6mm, it would better assure flatness of the mounting surface(s). Thanks again. IMG_5870[1].JPG
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Eliminate the tabs for sure. They are only rough locators when you plop the disc down. The shouldered bolts locate the disc as you thought. And even with the tabs, you can move the disc around a bit on the shoulders of the bolts before final torquing.

    Be sure to actually measure the two wheels. The ones I have measured have been 11mm difference (pretty damn sure) - 5.5mm off each side. I can remeasure (with calibrated calipers) if you would like a sanity check.

    .5mm isn't much I know. Perhaps also note if your caliper brackets are perfectly centered on the stock wheel / discs, or if they are off to one side or another a bit to know if you want/need to compensate.
     
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