what did you do to your vfr today?

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by f3racer, Aug 10, 2014.

  1. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    If you know all this already, move on.

    I probably should add for clarity that if you delink the brakes, the back master cylinder is no longer a good size for the back caliper. I bought a CBR600F4 master (and I imagine there are tons of the same bore size in other Hondas) and this is a nearly straight swap for the VFR piece. I used the double banjo bolt from the old delay valve, and connected both standard VFR rear hoses to the CBR master so this now drives all pistons. The CBR master has threaded mount holes whereas the VFR bolts through to nuts, so I drilled out the threads. The shaft that connects to the pedal also needs to be shortened to match the VFR (calling Mr Dremel...).

    I sorted out why my back brake was so limp tonight, there was a lot of lever travel but not much bite at the disc. I thought that I needed more bleeding (not MORE bleeding? please, no!!!), or that possibly the pads were contaminated. Turned out that for some reason the moving pad next to the pistons was jammed in the bracket opposite the pad pin, so the pad was only making poor contact with the disc at one end. How did it get like that???? I blame the mechanic (me). After disassembly, cleaning, sanding the pad face and reassembly, I finally have a solid feeling back brake. It was also nice to confirm that all the pistons are moving very freely and together.
     


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  2. RVFR

    RVFR Member

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    Took a peek at it under the covers, yep it's still there, look good as ever.
     


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  3. Grumpy old man

    Grumpy old man New Member

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    I fitted the jaws de-linking kit over the last couple of days and removed all of the proportioning valves from the rear of the frame along with all the extra brackets that are no longer needed and the steel brake lines from the frame

    (this needs the undertray and rear cowling + mufflers removing to complete on a 6th gen)

    found I had 2 weeping fork seals so replaced them and new dust seals new 10wt oil decreased the fork air gap by 10mm to 90mm hopefully to help slightly with the extra expected dive from the now delinked front end

    Cleaned all around the swing arm and rear wheel and caliper whilst everything was apart

    Found the Stator to R/R Plug showing signs of melting so soldered that up after extending the wires to meet up

    Washed the bike Had several cold beers as it was 35°C with 76% humidity so not test ridden yet (will happen today)

    I delinked the brakes due to a sticking rear caliper which turned out to be a rear proportioning valve full of black slimy rubbery contaminants from the 11yr old brake lines obviously decaying and after looking at the cost of new linked lines I decided to go this way and I will at a later date as funds allow fit a set of CBR600 F4I fork lowers and calipers

    I just ordered a 600F4I rear master cylinder as the current one has very little travel and seems like it will easily lock the rear running both braided lines

    I think I enjoy time on the tools as much as riding such a sense of achievement finishing a job that only cost you for the parts

    Not to mention the joy of having brakes a bit closer to how they should be ...............NOT LINKED
     


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  4. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Does the kit have a small rear caliper loop to run all three pistons?

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
     


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  5. Grumpy old man

    Grumpy old man New Member

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    No the kit comes with 2 lines to run from the rear master cylinder to the caliper and 2 lines for the front with all the associated double banjo bolts and crush washers and spacers for the 1 piston and SMC that need blanking

    It only uses 2 pistons on the left front caliper (unless you drill the third ) and obviously all 3 on the right with all 3 pistons on the rear

    As I only intend to use this as a short term stop gap I am happy to use the secondary master cylinder as a hydraulic lock to stop the left caliper pivoting
     


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  6. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Oh cool. Its about time someone made a kit to do an easy delink. I've got a 6th gen that I delinked. I found the factory rear master cylinder to be okay but not great. It will lock up the rear wheel if I push hard enough. I'm sure an f4i would be a little lighter and more progressive though. Maybe one day I'll get around to it.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
     


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  7. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I can confirm the F4i rear master works really well with the rear calipers via both standard hoses. I had a spirited 160 km ride today and fell in love with my VFR all over again!

    [​IMG]


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  8. Grumpy old man

    Grumpy old man New Member

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    On the 6th gen the rear hoses for the rear caliper were very different as one ended in a normal banjo bolt and one ended in a steel block that was then connected to a steel pipe then to a proportioning valve connected to the front system

    So I actually needed the 2 new rear braided hoses as well as the 2 x front braided hoses that came in the "JAWS" delink kit

    The kits were originally for the blackbird but were also adapted for the VFR , although not advertised on their website a quick email to them confirmed they actually do a kit for the VFR with custom lines by HEL and all the banjo fittings washers etc postage was only 7 working days from the U.K to OZ

    I rode mine today and the stock rear master cylinder is a bit fierce but no worse than my old 1992 fFreblade was

    2 up I think it would be just fine but solo you need to treat it with respect

    The front brake being separated from the rear is sooo much better it really stood out as too how much we adapt our riding style to allow for the linked brakes

    I hated it on both of my Blackbirds and it was growing old very quickly on the VFR too

    Overly complicated and too expensive to maintain to it's full potential as the bike ages and the hoses / seals need replacing and not many people know how to bleed the system properly either

    The above is purely my opinion and your mileage may vary I learned to ride with normal brakes 40 + years ago off road maybe that shaped howi like to ride
     


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  9. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Better get used to this linked brake stuff, I see in the UK from next year all bikes over 125cc must be fitted with linked brakes
     


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  10. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Norm are you getting confused with ABS? I believe that will become mandatory in the EU sometime soon. As someone who crashed a few times from a locked front in my formative years, that's probably not a bad thing.
     


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  11. Grumpy old man

    Grumpy old man New Member

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    Nothing a quick trip to the local hydraulic store couldn't fix

    And I will not be buying too many new bikes in my remaining lifetime maybe a new 8th Gen in a couple of years (or 9th if it ever happens )
     


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  12. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Just something I noticed on an Enfield forum in the UK, there also seems to be a bit of confusion as to the government wording of the new regs but that would be of no surprise to anybody

    So, as I read it all new 125cc+ bikes sold from 1st Jan 2016 will have to have ABS and a linked disc front and back, 1st question, any one seen any yet? 2nd question,will the old stock be pr-registered as 1 owner (dealer) like they did with the remaining cast iron bullets? 3rd question, any one have any prices for the 2016? Not a hard task for the likes of Honda etc as most of them have already done it on many models or easily to do, but how will this effect the likes of R.E.? Terry

    I'm with you Grumpy, I will never buy a bike younger than 25 years old because in Vic, I can register it for $70 compared to anything newer that costs $700 to register. If you have a few bikes in the shed that can add up to serious money
     


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  13. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Haha as soon as Honda finally starts unlinking their brakes. This shit happens lol.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
     


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  14. atx

    atx New Member

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    Got my uncle's 86 vfr700 started for the first time in 5+ years, carbs need a rebuild badly and i need to clean the tank, but it sure sounds good to me.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c691cvY9ZJA
    [video=youtube;c691cvY9ZJA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c691cvY9ZJA[/video]

    My garage is looking like a motorcycle butcher shop, and i'm alright with that.
    [​IMG]

    This is what it looked like not even 2 weeks ago
    [​IMG]
     


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  15. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    Rode the 01 in Malibu today and saw some really nice views and a cool bike or two.

    That's Catalina Island on the horizon.
    DSCN1115.jpg

    A VFR400 I spotted at The Rock Store
    DSCN1121.jpg

    Decided I'd move the Hella horn I installed from under the the frame to behind the left side panel on my 09.
    IMG_2283.jpg
     


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  16. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    Jealous much me
     


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  17. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    Thats awesome atx, congrats
     


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  18. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I spent some time tonight inspecting my front brakes; I am still getting a bit of judder especially under light application. I set up a dial indicator on a bracket and determined that I get 0.05mm on the right disc, but less than 0.02 on the right (service limit is 0.30mm), so they're actually pretty good.

    I also checked that the bobbins are all free (and they are). The judder was really bad when I first started using the CBR600 calipers, but has gotten quite a bit better, so I suspect some of this is just bedding in. I have some new EBC HH pads on the way, and I will attack the disc surface with an abrasive before installing these.
     


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  19. Underoath87

    Underoath87 New Member

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    Installed Barnett clutch springs, changed the oil, modified my Corbin saddle (narrowed it in the front to allow for a straighter reach to the ground), increased preload like 4 clicks in the rear. The bike launches and handles much better now!
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2015


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  20. proper

    proper New Member

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    Did the partial exhaust gut on my '06 as described elsewhere in the forum. Maintains the stock look that I like. Cost $40 in cutting tools & 5 hrs; no cutting & rewelding of the cans; was able to do it with just pivoting the cans down against the tire.
    I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT !!! THANKS YOU SO MUCH FORUM PEOPLE !!!
    It sings a good baritone now but is not too loud. Downshifting is delightful.
    Highly recommended - best bang for the buck if you still have stock exhausts.
     


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