Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by f3racer, Aug 10, 2014.
Its always fun.
Sooooo.... It's been a long while since I've been on here. Got hit by a police officer a few years ago on my 4th gen, didn't get enough money to get another. Got a hawk, been incredibly happy with that. A couple months ago I was looking for another project to keep me busy during the winter and found a free 86 in boxes in NH. Picked it up, took her home, stripped her down.
Haven't investigated the engine, but the swinger and frame are 100% good.
Brought her down to a buddy's in CT where we fitted a YZF600R front end. Whole thing slips in easy as pie, just need the Honda upper bearing (I'll check with the guy to make sure I've got this right). That's a fully adjustable cartridge fork + 17" front wheel + one piece Sumitomos
Rear wheel also should slip in easier than expected. Will be finding out this Sunday.
Happy to be back after a looooong break!
More updates coming soon
Installed new valve stem caps on my Jokermobile today,Pics 1 & 2. Couldn't help myself. :lol:
Also took the opportunity to install a complete set of T-Rex sliders,Pics 3 thru 7. This slider kit is designed to be a "No Cut" kit for the 8th gen. bikes but it bolts right on to the 6th gen. bikes.
Okay only sort of. hwell:
The aluminum slider puck mount for the left front slider puck has a hexagon shaped nut milled on the inner facing surface of the slider mount. The pointed edges of that hexagon nut must be filed round so that they will slide into the end of the hollow front axle and line up flush with the end of the axle. Once that's done the front slider (Pic 3) bolts right on. The rear slider (Pic 6) requires no modifications at all and bolts right on.
Since the 8th gen. and 6th gen frames and engines are virtually identical the slider mounting brackets for the T-Rex fairing panel sliders bolt right on with no modifications at all,Pics 4 & 5.
However in order to gain access to the bolt marked with the White arrow in Pic 5 you MUST relocate the coolant reservoir on the 6th gen. bikes.
Looks like I'll be needing a small aftermarket coolant reservoir bottle and fabbing up a new mount bracket for it.
The Red arrows in Pic 5 simply point to the two original mounting holes for the coolant reservoir and the Green arrow points to the coolant reservoir hose which now has to be relocated as well.
With the fairing slider puck assembly removed from the slider mount bracket in Pic 7 you can see that the 6th gen. fairing panel makes contact with the slider mount bracket where the Yellow arrow is pointing. There's about a 1/2" gap between the fairing panel and the small panel mount bracket that's bolted onto the frame.
I'll be notching out the fairing panel along the Red line that I drew in Pic 7 to give me the clearance that I need to properly install it over the slider mount bracket.
The fairing panel on the right side of the bike also has to be notched out in this way because it makes contact with the slider mount bracket as well.
this bike is not riden , looks like a carnival freak ride
So in reality, the no cut sliders for 8 Gen require cutting if used in a 6 Gen. You'll have to update us once you're done with your cuts Stosh. That rear wheel slider looks massive BTW.
That would be wrong my friend. Bought the bike brand spankin' new,she's now got 17K miles on her clock.
Aaaaand that's pretty much exactly the look I'm shootin' for. :lol:
Yep that's correct Double-O.
The lower fairing panels on the 8th gen. bikes are shaped slightly different and have a much deeper cutout in them back by the rear mounting bolt. This allows them to easily clear the T-Rex fairing slider mount brackets. Google up a coupla pics and you'll see what I mean.
Can do Double-O. :thumb:
Keep in mind that these pics were taken after I cut and rough sanded the panels only. They'll need to be blended and smoothed quite a bit more before I'd call them done but the pics here are just to kinda give you an idea of their final shape.
In Pic 3 the Red arrow points to the bolt on the shift linkage rod for my Sato Racing rearsets. That bolts makes contact with the edge of the fairing panel so I'm going to have to do a little bit more cutting and reshaping in that corner.
Pic 7 shows the two small pieces that I cut out of the panels,not much really. Pics 8 & 9 give you an idea of the clearance between the panels and the sliders.
Yeah I gotta admit it is but what da heck I'm gonna leave it on anyway. Besides the whole bike is so crazy and whacked out I don't think anybody's really gonna notice it all that much,do you.
Stosh, I absolutely love your bike, what a work of art. The funny thing is you pretty much have done all and everything that could possibly be done, but yet again here's another mod thats most likley been floating around in your head for awhile. ..would love to see your bike in person.
Think maybe you should market a model of your bike, ya know like the ones we used to build as a kid.
Oh, dont mind DICKHEADS response,just a bit challenged.
Put air in my tires. Had 25 in front and 28 rear. OH WHAT A DIFFERENCE with right TP!
Pooh! I crashed my VFR today. Came around a corner that I know very well, noticed something odd about the surface and then realised just before I was on it that it was diesel spill. Tried to steer inside the slick but it ran right across the road, and I low-sided at about 60mph. ATTGATT was well worthwhile today, it all got used but I'm only a bit stiff in places. Sadly my poor VFR (which was previously a minter) is now rather rashed up. Aside from a broken footpeg and severely bent brake pedal, it was still perfectly rideable but will need some extensive cosmetic repairs to the top, side and rear fairing. Ah well, maybe this is an upgrade opportunity?
This was the diesel spill, and the corner that I had just come around. Some very helpful and kind locals helped me back to my feet and wheels.
My poor VFR!
One well-used Arai!
For the record, this was my first crash in 25 years of regular riding!
Cadbury64, you survived, that's all that is important.
I am sorry about your bike though.
That's not bad at all, plus the best part is you survived with minimal damage to yourself!! Count yourself lucky~
I am sorry about your bike. It is a hard hit to the psyche for this to happen after maintaining it to look like new.
the bike is all ways more important than the rider, where is the sliders. That pic shows quite clearly it was a bad spot, I bet you might be able to find out who left it and sue them. I am sorry you fell down-. Oh I fell 0nce this year-no damage at all hit the slider=no scratches at all on panel.eep:
I think its a waste of time to be too picky- you would never ride it then
Wrapping up my 2mm overbore clutch slave cylinder and clutch ss line install. Just waiting on the line to come in.
Cadbury, very sorry.. atleast you walked away, thats always a good day...not bad for 25 years....feel better and it's only $ for repairs, not broken bones.
What are the advantages of increasing the bore of the slave cylinder?
Less lever effort (I have 100 pound clutch springs) and more progressive feel.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Who makes the overboard slave? couldn't find it online.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Separate names with a comma.