Viffer has run out of electricity

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by crynsie, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. crynsie

    crynsie New Member

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    Went to start the viffer yesterday and nothing, nada. No dash lights, horn or headlights. (yes, the run switch was on)

    After much faffing around checking the ancillary fuses (10a ignitiion) and the main fuse (30a magnetic switch) by the battery all of which were ok. There was no sign of scorching on the RR leads or the RR unit (what a PITA to get to). The battery looks ok, with no bulging and no sign of crud on the terminals. The battery is a sealed unit so no chance of checking fluid levels.

    I rode the bike the day before and there was no sign of any problems. It started ok with no sign of a struggling battery and the lights were strong and not dimming with revs.

    I have ordered a new battery (which is 4 days away).

    Any one have any ideas where the electricity could be disapearing?

    TIA

    Si
     
  2. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    Does the clock still work? I'll assume it doesn't and go from there. If it's working, check the ignition switch and/or it's wiring.

    If you have a meter, check the voltage of the battery. If around 12VDC, confirm that the 30A main fuse is good, by either checking voltage on other side of fuse, or disonnecting battery and do ohm check.

    If battery and fuse are good, check the neg side ground of battery cable. If still connected, check battery voltage using frame, instead of neg post. If disconnected, do ohm test between connector and frame.

    If battery voltage is below 10V, wait for new battery.

    :crazy:
     
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Check charging voltage after new battery is installed.....should measure between 13.5 and 14.5 DC volts @ 5000 rpm.

    But first check battery terminals and chassis ground wire for tightness and cleanliness,

    It's a fact that if you own a Honda you need to own a volt/ohm meter also.
     
  4. pjvtec

    pjvtec New Member

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    I like what squirrelman said, but I go with a 13.5vdc - 15.5vdc with hi beams on. It puts a good load on the battery.
     
  5. crynsie

    crynsie New Member

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    Sitrep...

    It wasn't the battery :(

    Bought a multimeter and checked that there was voltage going through the ignition fuse, so all ok there....

    Anyone have any ideas what the check next????

    I am really in unknown territory now...
     
  6. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    The clock runs without the sw/ on, need to know if it is working.
     
  7. crynsie

    crynsie New Member

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    Yep, the clock appears to be working ok.

    It has been suggested I check the earth cable.

    Anyone know where it terminates. I will be pulling the bike to bits tomorrow (nz time)

    A special thanks to all who have replied :smile:


    Si
     
  8. captb

    captb New Member

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    Make sure batt is good and terminals clean!
    You can test the ground by using a jumper from neg on batt to engine mount bolt, if lights come on the ground is bad.
    Jump the main 30 amp fuse to make sure it will carry a load, I've seen them test good but not carry amps.
    Swap the 10 amp ignition fuse with another
    Check batt red power wire is clean and tight at selnoid (main power feed)
    Turn the ignition on/off many times, maybe bad contacts, turn the handlebars back and forth with key on.
    Wiggle the ignition switch harness with key on.
    Check for power at ignition switch harness plug in, should be power coming from batt to feed the switch and power to other (usually red) wires with key on. Look for corrosion in connectors.
     
  9. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    CaptB has given you lots to start with. If you don't already have the service manual, I suggest you download it from this site. It will help you immensely. It definitely looks like it could be an ignition sw/ problem.

    :crazy:
     
  10. derstuka

    derstuka Lord of the Wankers Staff Member

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    Just for reference, I have a 5th gen and my R/R crapped out last year. My R/R looked ok...nothing melted, nothing burnt....so I went thru the troubling shooting procedure and tested everything. Everything else tested ok, so that left only the R/R. I ended up replacing the R/R, battery (only because it was old, and I the R/R messing up kinda took some life out of it), and put on VFRNess from "tightwad." and she was on the road again.
     
  11. dizzy

    dizzy New Member

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    So...do you have power to the subfuses (headlight, etc.) as well as the main? If you do, the problem wouldn't be the ignition switch...or you would read power to the main fuse, but not the subfuses.

    If your battery is good, and you have power to fuses...my next question is where did you place the negative probe when checking for VDC? If you were using the negative battery post, it only verifies the positve side of the circuits...you could still have a bad ground. In other words YOU were supplying the ground when you probed the neg battery terminal. Each circuit must have its own ground path to the negative terminal.

    The best way to test the ground side of a circuit is to place the positve probe on the positive battery terminal and neg probe whatever ground wire or surface you're testing. If you have less than full battery voltage the ground you're testing isn't doing its job.
     
  12. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    NO...Every person needs a volt -ohm meter because you cannot see electrons you can only measure them.
    You can use it to check batteries and many other components. You can check AC house circuits to to see if they are functioning. Learn the right way however.

    It would be like living in a home with no tape measure.
     
  13. donald branscom

    donald branscom New Member

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    If your light and horn work and it won't turn over many times it is dirty battery connection unable to carry the load the starter needs.
    Whan people have this happen on a car a jump start works - Solid proof the terminals are dirty. And when terminals are dirty the battery won't charge so
    then people go buy a new battery unessesarily.
     
  14. crynsie

    crynsie New Member

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    Well, finally fixed it

    After going through the fuses again, decided to check the ignition plug into the dash.

    This involved taking ALL of the panels off. What a f**king PITA!!!!!

    Finally got to the dash and the ignition plug was a little bit out. I pushed it back in again and she was away. 3 hours later trying to get all the panels back on and in place, we have liftoff.

    I found the earh lead behind one of the fairings, so it was a good time to check that as well, there was a little bit of white buildup, nothing major.

    A BIG THANKS to all those who replied


    Si
     
  15. karazy

    karazy New Member

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    That is why the service manual tells you to test it at the ICM. It's much easier to get at. In hindsight, do you think you could have got it without the panel removal? On the bright side, you are now the proud owner of your very own, shiney, new multimeter. :biggrin:

    Good to see you up and running again.

    :crazy:
     
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