For all of you 5th Gen owners this is for you. Sooner or later you will have to replace a sticking or stuck thermostat. It’s just inevitable. This is how I did it. 1) First I pulled the gas tank. A word of caution here. I thought I had it empty enough. I didn’t. Run the tank almost dry before you start. It will save a lot of hassle and your work space will not be nearly as explosive as mine. 2) Remove the fairing lowers. You will end up with a bike that looks like this. (Your color my vary.) 3) Remove the air cleaner top. The screws around the back are hidden so use your longest phillips head screw driver. I have some mechanical fingers that enable me to access these screws and not drop them down the frame. 4) Remove the four velocity stacks. They are held on with two phillips head screws each. 5) Now comes the fun part. I didn’t get a lot of pictures of this because it’s impossible for the most part. All the connections are under the air box and I was pretty busy trying to remember where it all went. I marked a lot of the vacuum lines and connectors with labeled tape just to make sure I knew where they all went. 6) On the left side as you are sitting on the bike disconnect the white electrical connector and the two breather pipes. Don’t worry about getting them back on. You can’t but you will do it anyway. 7) At the front disconnect the big breather hose and the small vacuum hose for the PAR system. 8) On the right side disconnect the gray electrical connector and a lower vacuum hose that once again is impossible to get to. (I actually replaced this line with one that was a half inch longer and still had hell getting it back on. I just though you should know.) 9) At the back of the air box pull the vacuum line and another gray connector. (This one is easy to get to.) 10) Pull the wires to the coils remembering which one goes where. Pull the spark plug wires and lift the air box off the throttle bodies. 11) Drain the coolant. I prefer to use the bottom most hose. Then i reconnect it so I don't forget. 12) Disconnect the overflow water tank and drain it. (it’s just easier when it is empty) 13) Let the water tank hang because you need to get into the space behind it to access the throttle body boot clamps. 14) If you have a long phillips head screw driver it’s not long enough for this job. I had to use a couple of extensions and a 3/8” drive phillips head socket. I was working blind most of the time. I could see the back side of the clamp screw so I had to position the driver in the front by feel. By the time I got it back together I was getting pretty good at the game. (I sucks in a major way while you are doing it.) I have no pictures of this because you can't see what you are doing anyway. The best I can do is to tell you that you will know what I am talking about when you get in there. It can be done. 15) Once I had the clamps loosened off I pried the top of each boot and gave it a shot of light oil. 16) Like other before me I used a pry bar (a very long and big flat blade screw driver) and a block of wood to pop the throttle bodies up and out of their boots. I pried firmly but gently on the mounting screws at the back of the TB. The oil helped and the back came up first and easy and I just pulled up to remove the front. 17) I just lifted the throttle bodies up without detaching anything else. I figure the less I do the better. This exposed the thermostat housing and related hoses. I used a bit of bailing wire to pull the TBs up and out of the way. You can gain enough access to get the thermostat housing out and that's what you want. 18) Remove the small hoses from the top of the housing. Loosen the hose clamps for the three bigger hoses. Remove the big hose the passes through the frame to the radiator and be sure to catch the water on your pants and foot. 19) Pull the thermostat housing off along with the remaining hoses. 20) Remove the two 8mm bolts and open the thermostat housing. 21) Pull the offending thermostat and replace it and the rubber seal. 22) Reinstall the newly assembled thermostat housing. This can be tricky because the hose spigots are too wide to start. It was made complicated by the fact that I replaced the hoses. They are different with the front hose having a slight bend. Like everything else the thermostat housing was difficult to reinstall. If there was a trick to it i didn't know it. 23) At this point I refilled the radiator with coolant. If I have any leaks I want to know before I go through the hell of installing the TBs. 24) Reassemble in the reverse order. Make sure you get everything plugged in and all the vacuum hoses put in the right places. The vacuum hose on the right side was the worst. I used some hemostats I had in my special tools drawer to grab the vacuum hose and install it because my fingers just didn't fit. As I stated before, I replaced the OEM vacuum line with one that was a half inch longer and it was still very difficult to get install. For the rest of the hoses it is next to impossible to get them on but do it anyway because there is such satisfaction in doing a job well. The biggest issue is have a long enough phillips head screw driver to reach the TB boot clamps. You will need this before you start. By the way, the project was worth it. On start up it warms quickly to around 175. Then the thermostat opens and it brings it down a bit and then it stays around that point. It's just wonderful. I anticipate being able to ride without fixating on the temperature readout.