VF700F Carb Fiche or parts schematic

Anyone have one for these carbs? Also, I need to know the size of the O-rings for the fuel inlet tubes and vent tubes. Having trouble reassembling these, they weren't assemble correctly when reinstalled by P.O. and broke an inlet tube. Replaced the tube and O-rings but not sure correct size.

If you look in the center of the attached photo, where the 2 side by side carbs come together the place where the linkages mesh to operate the other, I can't figure how they are supposed to align correctly, whether the tab on the one side is supposed to be over or under the spring of the other side, or even touching the spring. I can't quite get them properly aligned so not sure which way is which.

I had hoped to have it installed today but maybe tomorrow or the next day.

L8R.

 

Well, after several more hours and about 1,000 O-rings later, I finally found a setup that I hope will seal correctly, lolol. I mixed and match different sizes and thicknesses until I had about equal drag on each tube end, enough drag to keep it in place upside down but not enough to require yanking it to get it out.

With the O-rings seating well, the carbs seemed to just fall into place easily. I got it screwed back together with virtually no problem at all, and the air plenum wanted to slide right into place.

I am soaking the velocity stacks in hot soapy water to clean them and soften them up a little bit to make them a little easier to install without pinching them like the ones I took out. I found an extra set of stacks in one of the parts boxes and found them to be almost like new, just a little dirty.

I expect to have the carbs installed tomorrow and ready to permanently reinstall the tank and everything else underneath without worrying about having to go back to fiddle more with it.

More to come soon.

 

cool .....sounds like its coming together for ya.....

 

Why is the airbox base plate removed??? Never, never, never, never, I repeat never take that off of the carb rack. You'll want to carefully check the crossover tubes now and most of the time they break as soon as the airbox base plate is removed.

Go here for the proper removal and installation procedure:

Daugherty Motorsports - Motorcycle Suspension Performance and Modification


Also, the schematic doesn't always give you the o-ring sizes. If you need a carb kit in the future you should contact BillyC on V4HondaBBS.com .

 

Jaime, it wasn't my choice to remove the airbox base plate, it was done by the previous owner, he tried replacing the O-rings and busted the fuel inlet tube, which is why it was leaking. I found a spare and went over every millimeter of the others and got all in good order and the Carbs went together very well.

I hit a snag though when I went to reinstall the carbs on the engine. The Insulators between the carbs and heads are too hard and cracking so they don't flex enough to accept the carbs. I will have to order a new set, which means I need to sell a number of my extra parts. I found a good place in Muskegon Michigan that has everything I need, all of my local shops don't carry parts for that "old" of a bike, which means they don't want to waste time looking into the parts books and hoping I will give up and just buy a new bike, lolol.

I have fixed most of the stuff that had problems when I picked up the bike, put new peg brackets on, replaced one of the turn signals, replaced the starter solenoid and fuses, and tons more. I pulled the insulators and have them soaking in soapy water to clean them and I will douse them in hot water in the hope that they will soften enough to mount the carbs.

If the carbs mount up, there are only a few wires to track down, mostly around the headlight, and the clutch system I need to get before it is ridable. I also need to get my hands on the fuel tank mounting rubber and bolts, I only have the rear rubber mount and the wrong bolt holding the front in place. The battery is on the way so no worries there.

Oops, almost forgot, also need to bleed out the rear brakes, lolol.

And thanks, I already looked at the help guide on your site. Browsed over it yesterday when I was first having problems with the carbs, I saw in another Carb post where you mentioned your site. Great info there.

 

If you follow the procedure I show you can normally get the carbs installed, even with the hardest of insulators. If they are starting to crack then I agree they should be replaced.

Here's a suggestion: download the pdf of the parts fiche and get your own part numbers. It's always going to be best to establish a relationship with your local dealer. I still get at least 10% better pricing than any online source for Honda parts. Let them know that you fixing up the bike and will be purchasing quite a few parts for it - then ask to get setup with a discount. ALL dealerships offer discounts, you just have to ask! Don't be embarassed, you are the one giving them money.

Even if you don't have the part numbers, your dealership has software on the computer to look up parts, it's not a 'parts book' that they have to look through. It's no more difficult for them to look up a 1984 part than it is to find a 2008 one.

Good luck!

 

I think part of it was my admitted lack of patience for a 19 year old behind the counter. As I was talking to him he looked at me like I was some old fogie trying to be cool riding a VF. I simply asked him for the 30 amp fuse that goes on the starter solenoid and he made a whole big deal out of how that was old school and how they probably didn't carry it anymore, etc. He found one, lucky for me, but made double sure he wasn't under charging me for it.

My old Honda shop closed down due to the economy, and let me tell you, they had a parts room that would be like a candy shop for riders, over 2,000 square feet just for parts storage, not including the over 1,000 they had on display.

That said, I am going to have to shop around a bit to find a good dealer, or go back to the same one when the kid isn't there.

I will work on the carbs later today. I have a doctors appointment today and my ride spent the gas money I paid him for something other than gas, and I am furious.

Be back later.

 

If you need any help with parts just let me know. I get a really good deal and would have problem shipping stuff to you. I used to work at my dealership (ages ago) so when I walk in it's like Norm going into Cheers. The guys say "Jamie!" and I just go behind the counter and order up the parts I need. It's the easiest darn money that place can make.

 

My most pressing needs are small stuff, the front and rear fuel tank mount rubbers, bolts and sleeves and the carb Isolators. Give me a couple days to see if my Craigslist posts sell anything.

Would Admin have anything to say about me posting parts in the classifieds section? Most forums have a minimum time before posting rule. You can see what I listed on C-List by going to the SF Bay Area Craigslist and searching VF700F under motorcycles.

 

post away dusthawk......

 

Well, I am completely frustrated. I tried for several hours to get the old insulators to go back on the engine but I had no luck at all. For some reason, probably because they are too old and stiff, they just would not flex enough to allow me to get them lined up and installed. I could get two and sometimes three, but every time I tried to get that last one on another popped off some where else.

If anyone has a set of good insulators I am willing to trade at your benefit. I listed a bunch of stuff in the for sale trade area. If you find something you like, let me know and we will work a trade. All three rotors, maybe? Let me know.

In the mean time, I am going to bed, I am exhausted.

L8R,

Dusthawk.

 

That's pretty common. It normally takes me about 3-4 tires to get them on, and I've done it a hundred times before. Are you using the process I outline on my site? It's especially important to tip up the rear two insulators or else there is no way you'll get the carbs in there.

 

DRAT!!!!! I wish I had noticed that earlier. When I pulled out the carbs the insulators came out with the carbs, so I figured they would go on already attached to the carbs. When I looked at your pics I did it just like was pictured, getting the fronts first, then going for the rear. I just didn't notice the insulators mounted engine first. I have a bunch of things to do today around the house so not sure if I will get to the bike much today, but I will try to do at least some work on it, depends on how energetic I feel once I've woken up, I haven't even brushed my hair yet, lolol.

More to come later,

Dusthawk

 

you probably don't have all the springs for the throttle arm connections between carbs. Those are the first to pop out and get lost or un-noticed.

Put the insulators on the engine. Put a THIN layer of lubricant on them passed the hump in side. Coat the carbs the same way. Seeing you have old manifolds it's going to be tuffer. Do not tighten the clamps of the manifold on the head side yet. Make sure they are seated but not clamped. It will let them move around a little to help seat the carbs. Usually get the front in first about 3/4's of the way and then start the rears. Wiggling slightly with steady downward pressure. Get them started down about half way then pop the fronts down all the way and the rears will plop in.

Once that is done you can look for some springs.

Jamie- Just read your site and how you change carbs. All the ones I've done I've removed the carb plate. I can manipulate each carb to fit. The half dozen times or so I haven't had a problem. As long has the unit of carbs are handled right. Then you just fiddle with four springs. Interesting. Next time I might try it your way.

 

Grey, Thanks for all that.

I just got home from an overnight at a friends house, we tore down a CB750 chopper and pulled the engine in preparation to paint the frame and install a whole new engine. I am thoroughly exhausted tonight so I will work on my VF tomorrow.

All the springs are where they should be, I am just worried that the tab from one linkage isn't in the right position in regards to the spring of the other. Once I remounted the air box plenum the carbs lined up perfectly other than that one tab, it looks right but not sure. Is it supposed to mesh with the spring partway down or is the spring supposed to rest on the tab?

 

There is a spring on top and below the interlinking tabs. One of those usually get lost and one stays in place. Plus there is one spring per set of carbs that go in between the throttle shafts. Once on the bike those tabs get adjusted with the corresponding screws when the carbs are sync'd up.

 

That's really not good, you really shouldn't do it again. I'm surprised you haven't broken anything, everyone who's tried this has broken at least one of the plastic fuel tubes (myself included). There is not alternate way, you need to leave the airbox base plate installed for proper removal and installation.

 

Like I said. You have to handle them carefully. As long as you work them as a unit there's no problem. I've never broken anything or come close. Loosening the manifolds at the heads also help get the angles better matched. I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

That's cool, I'm certainly not trying to tell you what to do.

However, for everyone else who is reading this I strongly urge you to NOT do this. I really do not want to help anyone else try to repair damamged carbs or help them with sourcing difficult to find and expensive carb parts. I've done it far too many times already. Performing the carb removal and installation the correct way will virtually eliminate any problems like that.

 

So that means I am missing one spring? It doesn't look like there is enough room for two springs in there, I can barely compress the one spring in there, let alone a second. I need a really good picture of a close up of both areas on the carbs to make sure. I have looked at various parts sites and none of the pics are clear enough on that specific area to tell anything.