VF500 F2 Rear Wheel Impossible!

the same:thumbsup:

 

just take her out , but take it slow to start. don't go to far from home.

 

Ok ok....buy only if it stops raining.

I'm not comfortable riding in the rain with a Brand New Tire

 

That's normal. As long as your chain is in good condition you will be just fine.

They should be fine.

The brake hose should be positioned just like stock.

No, you can't use the chain guard anymore.

That's always tough. For most people using the marks on the adjusters is the best you can do. People have come up with fancy setups to check that the front and rear wheels are lined up. I have something like this that I've used during the creation of the wheel kits, but that was years ago and I haven't used it since.

 

So i took the bike out for a nice leisurely spin....about 20kms.

I have no rear brakes.
Looks like the caliper is moving whenever I press the rear brake lever. Both bolts are tight but the forward caliper bolt (Closest to the motor) doesn't thread into the caliper bracket.

Also....I hoped installing the 42 tooth rear sprocket (From a 44) would help lower the cruising RPM's a little...but they are HIGHER now.
Side effect of the small F2 Wheel?

 

shes lookin hot! rebleed your rear brakes...also your running the same rear sprocket as me when it comes time for a new sprocket set ill be running a 40 tooth rear, you would not believe how much this has helped my cornering speed, gear selection, etc..

 

Thanks! ....wait a minute....you're only saying that cause it looks like YOUR bike! :tongue:

Bleed the brakes? I never removed the brake hose, the reservoir cap or cracked the bleeder.
...and I'm guessing the pressure is good cause the caliper is flexing/moving slightly when I press down on the peddle.

If we go any lower in the rear we'd have to install a shorter chain....no?

Would it be better if we kept our 43 rear and went +1 (16) Front?
According to the JT Sprockets Ratio Chart...a 43 Rear and a 16 Front is the same as going down to a 40 rear and keeping the stock 15 front.

 

well that would work better cause yes if we drop to a 40 tooth then a shorter chain is a must

 

Think there'll be any issues going with a 16 tooth Sprocket up front?

 

nah.....should'nt be ...but i do know something for sure you owe me and jamie and a few other guys a 12 pack...ill take bud light :biggrin:

 

Ewww...Bud Light....how 'bout I bring down some Canadian beer.

Careful though...it's a little stronger then that American water'd down stuff :tongue:

First things first...I need rear brakes.

 

If you check out my site here http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/v4section.html#wheelswap , I show the recommended gearing is 16/44. That means keeping the stock rear sprocket and going to a 16 tooth front. That puts you at almost exactly the same overall ratio as stock.

 

Ah...I see. I'm looking for a little lower revs at highways cruising speeds though.


Also...Jamie....any idea what could be wrong with my rear brakes?

 

I hear you, I don't like how the 500's burn away at cruising speeds either. I'd run a 16t front and either a 43t or 42t rear (the latter probably being the best choice for you). I think you'll find that to make a decent decrease in revs while cruising. For those that are wondering, you can't really tell a performance difference. In fact, I've found this to actually be better because you can hold a single gear longer and use the V4's broad powerband to your advantage.

Check your mounting bolts to make sure they are tight. I'd also check that everything is still ok with the caliper, it was hanging off for quite some time.

 

That sounds nice. I actually had a nice dream that i was cruising to work on the highway at only 5,000rpm :crazy:

They are both very tight. One of the bolts doesn't thread into the bracket though...it slides in.

...and I never let the Caliper hang....I always put it somewhere.

Is it normal for the rear caliper to move while pressing the pedal?

 

It's not uncommon to have a little 'flexing' if you will. It should not be pronounced movement, you should almost have to feel it with your hands rather than be able to see it. If it's clearly moving visually then something isn't tight or not installed properly. The new bracket functions exactly as the original, so all of your parts should fit in there like stock.

 

I can see the caliper move when I sit at a light....look behind me and down and press the brake pedal.

Well there isn't anything to attach to the bracket but the caliper and the 2 bolts...yea?

...and the one bolt doesn't thread into the caliper bracket?

 

:tsk::blah::blah: listen to jamie like he has all the answers ssshhh quiet now its nap time :lalala: when are you going to put the front on??:gocards:

 

Correct. One is a slider pin that threads into the caliper itself. If it's moving side to side then I'd check that the slider pin is moving freely. I'd also make sure your pads are still located properly inside the caliper.

Matt, you really shouldn't post threads after the fourth drink of the night!

 

The pads stay on with those 2 pins that go through them....what about their position can change?