VF500 F2 Rear Wheel Impossible!

Earlier in this thread (post #144) I mentioned the Pads sat a bit high and Jamie said it was fine.

I can't compare the braking to Matt's conversion cause he's got steel lines.

....and I don't think anyone has 16/41 sprockets.

But the issue of the tire almost touching.....with a 150 tire....that's just odd.

 

Would the 16/41 combo cause a clearance issue with the chain slider? I'm not sure what to think about the brake pads being partially off of the rotor- to be honest this does not seem correct..?

 

It looks like with appropriate amounts of slack the rear sprocket just isn't large enough to clear the rubber chain slider.

The chain is new so I'm worried with some stretch the chain may be too long and I won't be able to pull the wheel back any further.

Regarding the brakes.....I have no clue.

 

The DMr F2 conversion notes a sprocket combination is 16T/44T - can you swap out the 41T for a 44T to see if this helps with the clearance on the chain slider?

Regarding your chain - I agree, it appears to be one or two links too long for comfort.

Regarding your brake pads - I went back and read the previous post you mentioned (no. 144). I am still questioning this one. Respectfully, even with Jamie's blessing, this seems a bit off.

 

I have run a 15/43 and it was fine. I'm assuming the lower rear sprocket is the problem. A 16/44 would make the engine rev too high with the smaller F2 wheel. Plus I don't think I have a 44 lying around.

Running a rear sprocket with more teeth is the opposite of what I want to do with this bike. I wanna keep the gear ratio low.

Seems that way. I just hope the chain doesn't stretch beyond what I can adjust. I can't remove anymore links. If the chain gets any shorter It'll bring the wheel into the swingarm and it'll most likely rub.

Am I correct in thinking the pads have a risk of cracking eventually?

 

Actually I double checked on the DMr website - it is 16/43 for the '86 model year (16/44 for the '84/'85). This said it may be best to switch from your 41T to the recommended 43T sprocket. I would be concerned about the chain rubbing the slider even if you are saving a bit on the engine's revolutions at highway speeds.

Re. the brake pads - yes, I would agree cracking could become an issue, as they begin to wear down - besides this - the loss of applied surface area doesn't seem quite right to me.

 

bugger!

Well this sucks.

 

I gave this some more thought – not that you want to read this, I am sure, but it may be a good idea to start looking for a smaller width rear tire (perhaps another 150 that is a smaller actual width).

The rear axle is really sitting too far back causing your issue with the chain length and adjustment. With this in mind will you also be able to take a link or two out of the chain if you decide to move the wheel forward? You may need to take this to a shop if you don’t have the correct tools.

I would also recommended switching to the 43T rear sprocket (as noted). This should solve the chain slider clearance issue.

For the brake pads – it would be beneficial to hear the design strategy here – i.e. is there a clearance issue between the brake caliper and the CBR600F2 wheel that requires the caliper to be mounted higher? I am sure that there is a reason if Jamie said this is okay – as it goes without saying that he has put a lot of design time into these kits.

 

I will not buy another tire.....especially a narrower tire. I already had a 120 on it before and going below 150 would be a kick in my pants. I am spending too much money on this bike!

Also....If I knew I couldn't put a smaller than 43 rear sprocket I wouldn't have installed the kit. I can't have this bike screaming down the hwy. As it is now it does 120km/h@6100rpm. With the 15/42 i had on with the F2 Wheel the bike was revving much too high....especially for a bike that likes to introduce the valves to the pistons. Not to mention my fuel economy sucks.

In an earlier thread Jamie mentioned a 16/42 combination to be ok. 1 Less tooth on the rear shouldn't be this big an issue.

I have adjusted the chain slack to it's tightest within spec and it's not touching too bad. But who knows what's going on behind that front sprocket cover.

The chain was originally a 110 link. I cut it down to a 108. I'd rather not cut it down any further.

The Sprockets and tire stays...if I start to have any problems I'll report them here and than sell everything.

I appreciate your input on this IC.

 

I certainly understand your hesitation on sourcing another manufacturer for a 150 tire especially after purchasing a new tire not too long ago. As you are keeping the 150 tire, 108 link chain and 41T rear sprocket 'as is' I would consider taking the front sprocket cover off for an inspection of what is happening in there - based on your photos the slider is getting a real workout and I am not sure how fast this part will wear.

If I could ask, do you know what other owners of F2 conversions are running (what their rear tire's actual width is, the number of links in their chain, front and rear sprockets, etc.?).

To be honest, based on your photos, it seems much safer going with a 140 width tire mounted on a CBR600F rim - though I understand that this isn't of help to you right now. I might get some flak for suggesting the 140/CBR600F combination but the clearance is very tight on your 150 and we are not even broaching a 160 which some people have said they have done.

This is a bit of a head-scratcher for sure!

 

Seems like everything about installing this kit on the bike is a head scratcher.

I don't know of anyone else who has the F2 kit installed besides The other Matt with an 86VF500. Maybe he can tell us what he has?

 

EDIT:

Just to clarify the picture with the wear through the rubber chain slider is when the chain was at a slack of a bit over 1" Now that it's about 5/8" it's not rubbing near the rear of the swing arm. It is close around the middle...and the front is too hard to see.

I will try and remove that cover to inspect what is happening.

 

As requested....Pictures of the wheel n stuff:

Click to enlarge Photos.

 

Having been riding for awhile now I can hear a steady (whuam whuam whuam) noise that gets more prominent when you get near 5,000rpms. I can't feel any vibration...just a steady "whuam whuam whuam" that will speed up depending on my RPM.

It only happens when I'm cruising at a steady speed and only around 4,000-6,000rpm. It goes away when accelerating or when I'm off the throttle.

 

I pulled the front cover off and there isn't too much contact with the rubber chain slider in there...just a bit though. Obviously it gets worse the more slack I give the chain.

I'm having trouble knowing for sure if the rear wheel is adjusted properly. Yea I can check chain slack to make sure it's a good distance front or back, but am I supposed to eyeball the rear wheel and make sure it's straight. The little notches on the chain adjusters don't seem that great a tool.

On another note....how can I be sure the rear wheel is inline with the front?

 

By purchasing very nicely made equipment for your workbench of course!

All kidding aside the Profi Laser C.A.T. looks to be the bee's knees and I've been thinking about purchasing one as a double check for my wheel conversion project:

PROFI PRODUCTS - Production Sales Trade

 

HERE is the method I use

 

Thanks guys.

String method makes sense.

Inexpensive too!

 

slow i dont see anything wrong with that slight amount of pad not contacting the rotor

 

I think you will see something wrong when the pads are worn halfway down and the top part of the pad is untouched.

I don't think pads are made to wear like this.