VF500 Carb Rebuild Kits Resource for parts wanted.

sorry man that sucks.

i have a hoover with automatic cord retrieval

 

Speaking of vacuum, I have noticed that the hoses for my carbs are extremely hard, and one has a split where it slides on to the plastic tubing. Some of these hoses seam to be preformed? Is this the case and can they be replaced with high temp vacuum hose, off the shelf?

Starting to get mentally prepared to assemble the carb assembly!

Wavey

 

Just make sure it is quality hose and is rated for what it's function actually is. Historically there seems to be a decent amount of confusion regarding what is vacuum, vent and fuel tubing on the V4s.

You can get some high quality preformed tubing on Amazon in various sizes if some turns are too sharp for straight tubing to not kink.

 

Going to look at Autozone today for some preformed stuff off the rack?
I ordered some 1 mm x 12mm long cotter pins to replace the linkage pins that I had to remove. I browsed on line for these and not sure that they will be small enough, I mic'd the ones I took out they should be close.

Wavey

 

Is there any home brew Pilot Screw Adjusting ideas that don't cost a rediculous amount of money. I can smell the finish line, no not really.

 

Are you talking about adjusting PILOT screws or SYNCHRONIZING screws?

 

You're still smelling the bad gas. ;-)

 

Speaking of the Pilot Screws... not sure I remember you talking about how much of a bitch it is to get the tiny o-ring out after removing the PILOT screws... which is MANDATORY. And how you didn't lose any tiny washers or orings doing so...

 

many times the o-rings are stuck to their seats, wont come out ez

 

I was confused, probably from the smell of various volatile solvents in my garage? I am talking about Synchro screws. I did not touch the pilots. Carbs were super gummy everywhere so I don't know if I should touch them or not. SM indicates no need unless replacing them, and doesn't specify why one should replace them? I have no V4 synchro experience, only inline 4 when no airbox exists. Everything you need to sync is right there in the open. If one performs the "Bench Sync" as the SM suggests how far off will I be when the carbs are on the bike and flowing fuel? Anyway I assume if the synchro screws need attention while the carbs are on the bike you need something other that a triple jointed wrist to get at them? I don't know?

I was going to start assembling the various tubes and linkage now with the following complete:
Replaced float strainers and two float valves
Removed cleaned replaced
Low and main jet holder and jets
Removed cleaned replace slides and needles
Air tested slides all are functional
New o-rings on bowl, all tubes.
Cleared Enrichment port with .254 mm wire (Guitar String)
Blew air through all passages.

I have a fuel bottle and tubing rig to do the initial run test. I will be testing for spark and was wondering about some Marvel Mystery Oil down the plug holes to make sure there is some lube in the cylinders prior to firing up? I also have an endo scope(Don't Ask) to use to peek into the cylinders just for fun!

I think that is everything.

 

That is so contradictory my head is spinning. It is EXACTLY the reason you need to touch them. Your carbs "were super gummy everywhere". You need to make sure that circuit is clear, the needles on the screws are clean and the tiny o-ring hasn't disintegrated into pieces.

You're not replacing them. Just like you're not replacing the jets, main jet holder, float bowls, floats, etc. You are removing them to clean and verify.

I bench synch using a strip of medium stock paper (3x5 card, business card) about the size of a litmus test strip as a "feeler gage". Set the base carb idle screw for a nice, repeatable drag on the butterfly in the center, over the tiny hole in the bore. Repeat per the progression in the SM, "snapping" the carb throttle pulley every now and then and rechecking. It gets you VERY close. Most of the time when I put vacuum gages on, I don't see a need to touch them any further. Some bikes I don't even bother re-checking because they have a perfect, smooth idle and just off idle. And that's what I'm looking for from a synch.

Squirrelman has some alternative bench synch methods that are crafty and effective too. The "feeler gage" method I described has worked so well for me, I haven't tried anything else.

 

Thanks for the tip again! Yes removed and cleaned. By the way I don't recommend putting Gumout in an ultrasonic degreaser!!!! Unless you like explosions.
I am going to start the process tomorrow night I hope then get them back on the bike Saturday and Sunday.

 

Hello,
I had to take a step back for some personal stuff, relocation and other. I managed to get some time in and was able to get the carb bank re-assembled excpted for one spring at the synchro adjustment screw area. Have re-attached the plenum base to stabilize the assembly while I fiddle with getting that last spring under the little synchro screw tab. I gave up last night but am going to get back at it today when I am fully aware of what I am up to. Once that is done I will perform the "Bench Synchronization" before getting it back on the bike. Any pointers are helpful for this phase, I have to again look at the Shop Manual, thanks to Capt. 80'.!

 

be sure to test carbs for leaks before mounting by hooking up a bottle or funnel with fuel into the fuel line. let them sit on cardboard for at least half an hour.

 

Good one.. I aim to do just that.

Thanks

On a side note ...why does a petcock need vacuum? And what is it supposed to look like at the base of the stand pipe? Lot a crud in this one? Currently soaking in gummout.

 

without vacuum activation there is a risk of filling the crankcase with fuel from a leaky float needle

 

SM shows fuel strainer inside of strainer cap(Red Circle). I did not find such a thing upon removing the cap? Don't see such a thing on E bay either??
Any Hints. Will check out CMS to search. IF they have one it will be $$$$ and two weeks away.

 

Leaked checking carbs...Gas poured straight through them! Are the gas crossover tubes the biggest culprit they? Should somthing else be plugged to perfrom this test. I have no ideas?

 

You're gonna have to try and determine where your leak(s) is.

"straight through" doesn't provide any clues.

Fuel tube junctions
Float valves and / or float heights over filling carbs
Pinched float bowl orings