Valve check?

Not flaming, but IMO your mechanics need to rethink their theories. When working with an engine that has no rockers, like ours, the valve clearances will decrease with time as the valve gradually moves into the head. If you have rockers then valve lash will/may increase because the rocker tips and/or camfollowers faces may wear. No rockers, no tips to wear. However I do agree that if it's been quiet and now it's noisier then you need to check it out ASAP.

I just did the 30,000 mile valve check on my '99 ( I know, I don't ride enough) and 9 out of 16 had less clearance since my last check at 16,000 miles. None had increased and one needed adjustment. Only down to a loose .004 on a intake valve but a .005 wouldn't fit. Rats. I'm going to take it to work and have the machinist take .0015 off so I don't have to mess with the dealer.

If this trend continues I figure I'll have several that will need adjustment at 45,000 miles. And of course this is all JMO.

 

Some models seem to be consistent. For example the old DOHC air cooled models always seemed to have tight valves...and a burned valve now and then wasn't a huge surprise. But they were working with less clearance to start with. The newer "shim under" design where the cam directly activates the lifter seem to change very little...at least that's what I've observed. I can't say I've noticed a trend as far as loose or tight.

There's a lot of things in an engine that can tick and click. Unless the clearance is REALLY loose...I am skeptical it makes much difference in sound.

A big part of why you don't have to mess with this stuff very often is because most of the parts are hard surfaced. I don't know for a fact but I'd guess the shims are as well...that's why I'd think twice about machining one down rather than replacing with new.

 

My question is what are you going to do if it does need shims? Figure out what size you need and wait to order or hope your dealer has the right size? Buy a shim kit that Im sure is not cheap or practical. Reg wants help to check his but this was the question I posed to him as well. If there was enough people in your area to split the cost of the shim kit might be the best way. I have not checked mine at 24k on my 4 gen yet. Maybe at 30k.

 

I wouldn't order a shim kit. You'll get sizes you won't need and probably not enough of the ones you do.

SLOVFR sounds like you answered your own question. That's kinda what you're left with. Sometimes you luck out and you can swap a couple around. You could check ahead and see if a local dealer or salvage has an assortment. Good used would be acceptable. Think ahead and try to do it a time when your bike can be laid up a few days.

Seems like on any given bike the shims are all of similiar size...the exhaust may have a different range than intake. I suppose if you have to shim your bike once you could measure the others and try to get an idea of the range you need...Then just order a small assortment.

 

The shims are not just hard surfaced, they are hardened throughout so having a .0015 ground off is no big deal. Had the machinist grind it down today, actually ended up with .0017 ground off but that will be close enough. That should get me back to a couple tenths over .006. Close enough for government work. LOL

I've got an FJ1200 that I've had to do some shimming on a couple of times and I've been able to mix and match shims on that so I didn't have to buy a bunch. I figure with the VFR I'll do my maintainance in the wintertime if possible and then just order the shims when I need them. Those little devils are not cheap: over $6 online so I imagine the dealer's price will be $8 or more. After checking I realized the shim kit isn't all that bad: around $75 for three of each size of the full assortment. Since I have access to a machine shop I can grind shims to fit if I need to, but I'll have to see how it shakes out. That's still a couple years in the future.

I'm going to measure the rest of the shims since I have the cams out, just curious.