Tell me what you think, another "not running right" question.

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by afpierce489, Apr 1, 2010.

Page 2 of 2
  1. afpierce489

    afpierce489 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Cod, MA
    Map
    So far all of the comments have helped out tremendously. Thank you all for the help. Another question though. After I get everything rebuild and put back together, where do I hook up to do the carb sync? I've looked for the little screws that the manual says are on the side of the carbs and can't find them. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Pics would help too. I must be blind.
     
    afpierce489, Apr 6, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #21
  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2009
    Messages:
    7,831
    Likes Received:
    91
    Trophy Points:
    78
    Location:
    Colorado Front Range
    Map
    the vacuum port for sync is not on the carbs. it's generally a port on the head where the carb mounts too. They'll usually be plugged with a screw. I may have a picture of one from an older V4 but the idea is the same. The screw plugs the port, you'll need to remove the screw and thread in your own nipple to connect the vacuum line to.

    Here:

    you can see the carbs, the carb insulator boots with strap clamps, and then the cylinder head/intake manifold. The little screw right next to the insulator boot is a vacuum port.
    [​IMG]

    Dissregard my little red arrow - that was illistration for another user to know where to savely pry the carb assembly during removal. This photo is from an '85 500 but I just looked at my '90 750 and there are similar screws located similarily
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2010
    tinkerinWstuff, Apr 6, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #22
  3. afpierce489

    afpierce489 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Cod, MA
    Map
    So I just took a look and found what you were talking about. However, the rear 2 cylinder heads have screws in them, and the front 2 have hoses attached to them. The hoses are attached to the thing on the side of the bike. So to do the carb sync, I would just remove the 2 screws and 2 hoses, attach the carb sync tool, and dial in the carbs to as close a equal (with cylinder #2) as possible, right?
     

    Attached Files:

    afpierce489, Apr 6, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #23
  4. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2009
    Messages:
    7,831
    Likes Received:
    91
    Trophy Points:
    78
    Location:
    Colorado Front Range
    Map
    More or less.

    I'm not familier with this model year (yet) so I can't say what those lines are connected to. If one of those lines connects to something like a fuel shutoff valve then you may need a hand vacuum pump connected to one of the lines you remove. Or install a T in the line but that isn't my 1st choice because it can affect your readings if there's a slight vacuum leak further on down in the system (i.e. whatever the line connects to). The other vacuum line you pictured probably goes to some emissions apratus. Normally disconnecting that one and plugging with a golf T will suffice just fine.

    I'm sure someone with intimate knowlede of your year will chime in. Otherwise I hope to be in your same shoes by this weekend and can let you know :cool:
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2010
    tinkerinWstuff, Apr 6, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #24
  5. afpierce489

    afpierce489 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Cod, MA
    Map
    Thanks, I know about your 90 project bike. Good find. Can't wait to see it up and running. Good luck to you.
     
    afpierce489, Apr 6, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #25
  6. afpierce489

    afpierce489 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Cod, MA
    Map
    So, I am taking the carbs apart to clean them. This is what I've found:

    1) The main jets are for a 1994 California (125 & 128)
    2) The slow jet is for a 1994 California (or 49 State & Canada) (40)
    3) The float is set for 1993 (9.0mm or 0.35in)
    4) The pilot screw is set for a 1992-1993 California (2 turns out)
    5) The serial # on the carbs is VDJJA which is for a 1993
    6) The vin # on the bike is for a 1993

    So, money is a little tight nowadays, so my new plan is to keep the jets as a 1994. I plan on making all the other settings for a 1994 including the floats and pilot screws. Let me know if this is a solid plan. I'm pretty sure that the 1994 carbs with settings will work with the 1993 engine. If not, it'll probably run a little rich. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Adam
     
    afpierce489, Apr 14, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #26
  7. afpierce489

    afpierce489 New Member

    Country:
    United States
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Cape Cod, MA
    Map
    So here is something else interesting, I was looking in the manuals and they say that the main jets are (for 1994 California Models) 128's in front and 125's rear. What I found when I opened up the carbs is 125's in #1 & #2 and 128's in #3 and #4. 1 and 2 are on the left and 3 and 4 are on the right. Shouldn't they be set up with #2 and #4 (front) at 128's and #1 and #3 (rear) at 125's?
     
    afpierce489, Apr 14, 2010


    This site may contain affiliate links for which VFRworld may be compensated
    #27
Page 2 of 2
Related Topics

Share This Page