Talk me out of this chain...

With all that said, what is the best available chain/sprocket combo for a 5th gen? (longest lasting)

 

Interesting timing on this. Just doing some looking around for someone on D.I.D. chains and seems there is a newer design making a strong showing called X-ring which may be slowly replacing the O-Ring. I have no idea what they look like and would like to see just what the actual link looks like before I give them a try.

Just went through my service papers and my present DID I bought in October 2010. I don't have the mileage on that bill but the next bill a couple months later has the mileage on it. I have so far gotten 20,900 miles out of that chain and sprocket set through some really shit weather with lots of rain salt and grit and even some snow. I did a lube and adjustment on the chain just yesterday and it is still in good shape. For what that is worth to you in deciding what chain to buy.

 

Get steal sprockets, stock gearing works in most situations. I have JT sprockets this time around, they are Japanese and seem ok. Have had Regina and some other ones in the past. Have Sun-Stars on my Ninja-ette...Buy the best you can afford, a good one should last at least 20,000 miles...DID, RK, Tsubaki, they are all good, latest greatest X-ring-Y-ring, Z-ring...you get the picture...

 

+1 it is a clip on so I doubl it is a good chain
For a 530 chain it should be press master link.

 

I guess "X" ring chains are not that new after all. Me dumb....Theoretically, I suppose the x ring is the better of the two. Looking at the make up of these things, there are two points on each side of the ring in place on the x ring vs only one on each side of the o ring, to keep crap out and lube in. I don't know how much less resistance there would be on the x ring vs the o ring though.

O Ring and X Ring Chains ¦ Motorcycle Chains ¦ Technical Help ¦ Bike Torque Racing

While looking around on this, I also learned just what the numbers on a chain meant. There were descriptions all over the place which seemed to assume the reader knew a lot already. Here is the best explanation I could come up with:

Of the three digit number, the first refers to the pitch of the chain, or the distance between the pins. They are measured in units of 1/8 inch So a 4** series chain would have a 1/2" pitch or pin to pin distance of 4 times 1/8" (4/8 or 1/2"). A 5** series chain would have a 5/8" pitch or pin to pin distance of 5 times 1/8" (5/8"). A 6** series chain would have a 3/4" pitch or pin to pin distance of 6 times 1/8" (6/8 or 3/4").

The second two numbers refer to the width of the chain. Again the measurement scale is 1/8". So a chain marked *20 would be 2 times 1/8 (2/8 or 1/4"). A *30 would be 3 times 1/8 (3/8"). Now if it is a *25, then it would be 2.5 times 1/8 (5/16").

After this three digit number, there is a "X ***" number. Simply put, that numeral represents the number of links. An inside link counts as one while an outside counts as another. The master link counts as a link.

So if you buy a chain that is 520 X 120 as an example, the chain has a 5/8" pitch, 1/4" width and is 120 links long. Naturally when you replace the sprockets, they need to match the chain you bought. If you have purchased a used bike, don't assume the person who put the previous chain and sprockets on have used the correct ones. Do some research to determine what should be on or seek advise from someone where is demonstratively in the know. I am not one of those people cause I know notting. (in my best Sgt. Schultz accent).

 

You are only the mess-en-ger....

But seriously great post!

Sent from my handheld-sending-thing...

 

Just buy a good chain from any of the big chain makers,RK,DID or Tsubaki. They will tell you what the tinsel strength is and what size bike/motor it was designed for. For your bike something like 10k strength is more than enough for the power you have. IMO it's better to go a little stronger on the strength if you want it to last a long while like Randy's. The most important thing is to lube and adjust the chain properly.

Each chain will have a slack area and a tighter area once broken in. Set the slack side 3/4-1" of slack then make sure the tight side has about 1/4" or so for starters. Most bike/chains will have a happy spot where they like to run and not wear as fast. You'll notice it because you won't have to adjust that much. Biggest problem I've seen is guys adjusting their chains to tight. Then they will wear faster.

The best way to check a chain is in the center of the rear sprocket on the back part where the chain has full contact. Grab a link pin and pull outward. If the link pin raises half way up the sprocket tooth it's shot. A new chain will lay against the bottom of the sprocket groove between two teeth basically. This could also indicate a worn sprocket also.

 

I have an x-ring chain and I can't tell the difference by looking at it, didn't pay attention to how many miles but I just adjusted it after having it put on spring 2012. Course the winters are long in UNY

 

I have used X ring last two chians. Is is just a different ring than theno it is actually an x ring. O and x ring chains a re sealed lunricatn chains. The lube is sealed in each link. Any spay lube you add are surface only. Wat proof and lube the sprocket.
The big names are good. Using DID as a base, RK just below tsubaki better. Lots of different sprickets.nsteel is key to longevity. JT, AFAM etc. you can also look at supersprox. Its an aluminum/steel combo.

Anyway I ramble....

 

Thanks for all the input on this. You've helped me decide to do a more reputable company and sprockets at the same time... in the spring.

Sent from my handheld-sending-thing...

 

That looks like those cheap Volar chains that are littered everywhere on feebay.
Per the reviews on google, they either snap or our completely stretched out after about 5k miles.