Starter Clutch Repair VFR750 With Pictures

Mine had about 67,000 kms and now about 70,000 kms with no problems what so ever.

 

So fill me in on re-setting the timing when doing this swap. Doesn't pulling this off and putting it back on screw with the timing of starting it? Or does simply lining up the small pin (that you transfer from old to new part) and the hole take care of all of that, seeing as how it looks like the new complete clutch will only fit on the splines one way?

 

I never changed anything regarding timing after replacing the starter clutch.
All I did was swap out the old starter clutch for new and she started first go.

 

Well, after inspecting everything pretty closely, I think I'm just going to replace the starter and the springs. The rollers look fine with no wear, and I can't see how there could be wear/damage to the caps/brushes at all. The springs all are the same length and all seem to compress the same, but replacements are only $1.62 each here locally.

Do the caps wear out at all? Seems to me the weak/wearable part could only be the springs.

 

Need help gang. I put a new starter clutch in yesterday, along with new springs. Not sure I needed them, but they were cheap, so I did it. Took the small pin from the old starter clutch, and put it in the new one, but man....it was soooo tight. It dropped right in and pushed out easily from the old clutch, but in order for it to get in the hole in the new clutch it needed some persuasion with a hammer. New gasket, refilled with oil and...


nothing when I tried to start it. Just a weak slow crank that really wasn't a crank at all. Battery is perfect, always on a tender.

I did notice when the rollers went back in that they were kind of a PITA to get in. In the old clutch, the clutch with the rollers in it could be slid over the 48 tooth gear that's behind it all (p/n 28110-MB0-010 ) and the rollers would stay in.

In the new clutch I had to kinda do it all @ once and slide it all together. The rollers would not stay in the clutch when slid over the 48 tooth sprocket. Not sure if it matters, but I noticed it.

I lined up the small pin with the hole int he clutch cover, and slid it back on the shaft correctly. It only goes back on one way. Everything else was tightened to spec.

Guess I need to drain the oil YET AGAIN and try and save this gasket if I can. Damn it.

(I'll be checking this posting from the garage so thanks for your quick thoughts...)

 

Never mind. I got it figured out. Starter clutch reduction gear was in backwards. It fell off when I was taking the starter clutch off, and I must have put it back on backwards. I flipped it over, cover back on, oil back in, started up first try. Runs great now.

 

Woohoo and congrats on getting the bike running again :biggrin:

 

... embarrassed to say that even with pictures, I think I F'd this up. Mine was cracked bad, so I know that this was the problem. Unfortunately I took it apart to diagnose it, found the issue, shopped for parts a while, ordered them, they showed up and I waited a couple days to do it (winter in PA...) In that time I must have put it back on wrong.

It really sounds like the timing is off, like it cranks then halts and I even get some backfire occasionally.

I have manually advanced it to where the line in the T1 is lined up with the tick in the case and even held a wire in the 1st chamber (left rear right?) and verified it was at max height when we were lined up correctly....

Greg, does this sound like what you experienced with the reduction gear in backwards?

 

Hey Davey-

I see you have messed with the timing. I didn't need to touch any timing issues or line up anything when I swapped mine. Removed RH cover & gasket, removed the 3 gold bolts and the one black center bolt, swapped clutch, and but the gasket & cover back on. Never touched anything related to timing, or lining up marks, or anything. I BELIEVE the small pin, swapped from clutch to clutch, takes care of all of that. Did you do the small dowel-like pin swap correctly? Put it back in the same hole on the new clutch?

When you pull the starter clutch, it only goes back on one way, due to the splines on the rod.

I accidentally knocked off the small reduction gear to the right of the clutch when installing it. It needs to go back in and have all of the teeth intersect with the teeth on the starter clutch.The smaller toothed gear is facing outwards towards you, not inwards towards the bike. Make sure all the teeth mesh with the starter clutch gearing, this is where I went wrong.

Fill me in and I'm sure we can get it solved.

 

Thanks for the quick response...

I actually bought a new dowel pin, rollers, and springs with the starter clutch. It only went in one way though, as I recall.

I verified last night that I was getting fuel, I cleaned my carbs again, I tested the spark, and I have a new battery. It just won't turn over.

I think I am going to drain the oil and take the case back off tonight to look at everything.

What did your bike do when that gear was reversed, anything? I recall removing mine temporarily also.

 

When I had the reduction gear in backwards, it cranked but would not fire. It cranked with difficulty though...you could hear that it was under strain, which made sense when the gear teeth are not lined up and meshed together.

I know you said you got a backfire, and I'm not 100% sure that did not happen to me. Can't remember that part.

I know draining the oil again and SLOWLY removing the gasket so you can re-use it is a PITA, but at this point it seems like the only way out. Fill us in with what you see in there this time around.

Also, you can see many photos in the initial post (#1) that show the reduction gear to the right of the clutch, and how it should go it with the smaller gear facing out towards you. Mine got knocked off by me in the swap, and it's easy to put back on wrong.

 

So I broke down and took the case back off. Fortunately, in combination with the gasket I used the orange RTV sealant that apparently doesn't harden up much until it gets hot. So the gasket is all good.

Turns out the reduction gear was on correctly but when I went to take a picture I realized that the casing for the starter clutch was not aligned properly. In other words, you were right, I put that little metal dowel in the new clutch but didn't bother lining it up right before cranking those 3 12mm bolts back into it.

I got everything back together but didn't try turning it over because I am out of oil, dammit. I am hopeful though. Thanks again, will post my results again with some "what not to do" pictures!

 

Yep, that sounds like your issue. Glad to hear you might have it licked. Oh...just re-use the same oil. I did. The bike hasn't been started (and even if it had, I'd still re-pour it), so there's nothing wrong with it, right?

 

tadaaaaaaaaaa! It goes to show that this really isn't a difficult fix if you follow the damn instructions....

At least she got a good carb clean and new plugs.

Man, I forgot how sweet this bike sounds.

Thanks again.

 

Glad my ineptitude led to some good for once. Good job on getting it back on the road.

 

gold bolts catching on casing

can anyone help i put new rollers and springs in starter clutch.put all back on as it came off.but barely turned over then.when i took side case off found that 3 gold bolt heads on starter clutch are catching on inside of casing.does gasket also act as a spacer to prevent this.i cant see why this is happening to my beloved 89 vfr 750. any info gratefully appreciated.

 

Sounds to me like the clutch is not fully on the splined shaft and fully enmeshed with the teeth on the sprockets it touches. You also may have the reduction gear mounted on its shaft in reverse. The gasket does not act as a spacer...it's far too thin.

You also may not have the 3 gold bolts tightened fully. No matter the reason, they should not touch the inside of the case.

Make sure you have the clutch on the shaft correctly: because of the spacing of the teeth (some are tight and regularly spaced, followed by a wide flat part) it will only go on the shaft one way.

I do not know the 89 model specifically, but if it's close enough or the same as the 94-97 that you can follow the initial fotos & instructions, it must be close enough that some of these fixes may work.

 

Bike: 1991 VFR
I rebuilt the start clutch 2 years ago. Bike would start fine cold but wouldn't always turn over when hot. I replaced the solenoid then confirmed that I had 12 volts at the starter when it was hot. Suspected that the starter was binding when hot.


Removed the starter and took it apart with a co-worker (EE) that has alot of experience with motor design. Re-assembled the starter and installed it back on the bike and it just spins. Took it back out and confirm that starter works and that the gear that couples to the starter clutch it okay.

Could I of damaged the starter clutch somehow? My next step was to pull off the case and have a look. Is there anything that I should look at before hand?

Thanks.

jmoylan1@insightbb.com

 

Arrgg!

Pulled the side cover off and the starter clutch has a crack in it.

 

I have to do the exact same thing. Mine is still working but I just ordered the parts with out bothering to take off the cover. I wonder if any aftermarket companies make a better than oem replacement part to fix the problem. I hope i'm not changing it again in 2 years.