RWB 1996 - a winter restoration...

Looking and sounding real awesome. I can't wait to see more pictures!

You ever think about getting the fasteners from probolt? You can get different colors and the quick release ones will look hella cool on your bike.

 

There will be many more photos posted up this weekend, including some parts sporting the lighter blue.

I really don't have any interest in replacing the fasteners - the polished up stainless stock bits are more than sufficient for me. In addition, there are 10 Dzus fasteners for the removal of the most commonly removed panels. Good enough for me!

 

Coolbeans. Just thought I'd let you know regardless

So, is the lower fairing the same material and texture as stock?

Or did you sand it smooth?

Or is it a different material?

 

I only scuffed the belly pan pieces - the paint filled in most of the texturing. They are made of the same softer plastic as the floppy mid inner fairing.

Here's an update:
Yesterday was my first big clear-coating day. Everything was going swimmingly, and then the wrinkling issue reared it's big ugly head again on two pieces. The LEFT tail fairing and the RIGHT mid fairing are just about junked because of it. I don't understand what the problem is - the red paint on both pieces was scuffed with 800 grit a week after it was base coated and has been drying for over three weeks now (re-coat time on can is listed as >1 hour or <36 hours), so I'm definitely not re-coating too early or too soon.

The part that is the most frustrating is that the RIGHT tail fairing came out absolutely perfect and the LEFT mid fairing had only minimal wrinkling (which at this point is turning out to be an acceptable result).

I have had wrinkling issues on nearly every single piece, with most of it occurring on pieces painted red or white (to a lesser extent). I am using Plasti-Kote enamel red/white gloss sprays for the base coats, and Plati-Kote clear acrylic enamel for the initial clear coat layer. I will airbrush on the final clear layer, decanted from the Plasti-Kote can. You'd think that products made to work with each other should actually do just that... My dark blue stripe is Rustoleum Metallics, and the light blue is a DuPont enamel mixed at the parts store. There is no issue with either of these colors reacting with the clear coat.

The only way I have been able to sometimes correct this is to start back at the primer stage and spray everything (color coats & clear coats) all at once. I've had to re-do the 1/2 moon tail piece three times now to figure this out.

Am I correct to assume that dried enamel is pretty much un-re-coatable? I am never using enamel for a project again, unless it's painting a trash can or something else I don't care about.

 

Here's some pics of the carnage:
All parts before starting clear coat:

RIGHT tail fairing (no paint issues):

LEFT tail fairing (wrinkled like crazy, over 75% of the part):

 

I know nothing about this stuff. Nothing at all. Please take this for what it is.

Could it be the part heating and cooling? Are you applying the paint outdoors and then brining the parts inside? I wonder if it would work better if you could keep the parts in a temperature controlled environment (ie inside) while applying the paint and while drying.

 

hmmmmm I dont know man i suck at this stuff. I'd rather turn a wrench and play in coolant and brake fluid all day than paint. I seriously suck at this stuff.

You seem like a smart guy i'm sure you will figure it out. Or someone will jump in and help. good luck! I'm learning from this thread

 

Thanks for the ideas. I don't think it's temperature related, as it likely would have happened to ALL of the parts I painted yesterday, not just two of them. I am painting in my 60 degree garage, then bringing the panels inside to dry. All of the body pieces were painted in succession about a 2 hour period yesterday evening.

Bike as it stands now (wrinkles and all):


Can't even think about re-finishing the messed up parts - I need to have the clear coat cure before sanding anything.

Note that the bottom edge of the tank and the uppers will get the dark metallic blue to complete the stripe.

 

More pictures:
Playing with decal placement:


Nose put together:

 

It does look fantastic, btw.

 

It does, doesn't it. :hump:


Sorry to hear about the wrinkling issues. Quite frustrating. :frown:

 

YES, it does look great! :bravo:
Good luck ironing the wrinkled pieces, and I'll say it again... you're ambitious!

 

My wife (of all people) did some research on enamel paint, and apparently it IS as finicky to use as I am finding out.

Any re-coating that is anything greater than a orange-peely mist coat after the base is dry can result in wrinkling. It sucks. Lacquer molecules will actually melt into each other - enamel doesn't do this. What enamel does have are very "hot" chemicals in them that will actually attack the base coat, and cause it to lift and wrinkle. This is what has happened to me on multiple occasions, most notably on the tail section above...

For some odd reason, only my red and white base coats seem to be affected - maybe the other colors are more robust... (?)

What this means is that I need to sand both wrinkled pieces smooth (once again), and re-prime them. I also plan to do all of my coats within a 1 hour window - base, wait 5-10 minutes, base, wait 5-10 minutes, base, wait 5-10 minutes, clear, wait 5-10 minutes, clear. If I wait too long or paint too heavily over a coat, I run the risk again.

The enamel clear coat is definitely a better product than the red/white. It has proven to accept repeated re-coats without a problem thus far. I think that I will need to lay down my final clear coat with the airbrush.

 

I painted the dark blue stripe on the lower portion of the tank last night. Came out pretty decently.

Tonight, I hope to do the same with the uppers, but the weather (temperature and humidity) are likely not going to cooperate. :-(

 

Looks very promising as soon as that F*CKING weather cooperates-------- it sucks here in CA, was 89 today(sorry) :bootyshake2:

 

I got no info to share...Other then it looks great and your really gonna kick yourself in the arse if you leave them wrinkled parts on the bike.


Take the time and get it right.


Its worth the effort I promice!

 

VTviffer, You noticed that this site is kinda dyin' with traffic and advice. I am amazed that there are no paintshop/bodywork guys commenting in a WORLDWIDEWEB site. (Where are the Germans when you need them?)
You and I have the same cycle and I've followed your posts for years. Am overseas now and don't ride the beauty daily.
Your project is one of the best I've ever seen. My '96 is gonna have the same white wheels someday.
Keep posting. Take care of your beautiful new child and don't worry about who is listening.

 

Thanks everyone.

I can probably post a few more pics this weekend, but they won't show much in the way of progress. Just fiddly stuff.

I did get my 3M striping tape this week. I think I will put it on the inner front cowl to see how it looks. I also have some more dark blue to paint up, as well as paint repairs to two different pieces (sanded back down and primed now).

Oh, and in case anyone is wondering, 3M "Light Gold Metallic" ScotchCal striping tape is IDENTICAL to the light gold color used on the 3G/4G/VFR750R. I am stoked it is so perfect.

 

Sorry to see the paint turn on you like that. I have had nothing but troubles like that and can ruin paint like no other. Looks f'n sweet though.

 

So here's the progress update for this weekend:

Both upper fairings received a final basecoat of white, pearl, then two thin coats of clear. Both came out excellent. I also painted the small dark blue triangle of color on each upper. In previous photos, the white on these pieces was not done and not pearled or cleared.

The last of the color painting I should have to do is to re-paint the red on the RH mid and the LH tail. All other colors on the two pieces that wrinkled up are done now.

I also put the striping tape on the front inner cowling, and I am EXTREMELY pleased with the quality of this product, as well as the gloss of the vinyl. It will go on over the final clear coat when it's dry. The color is PERFECT.

A couple of quick pics:

Trying to show the pearl off: