Rogue's VF500 rebuild or part out!!

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by RogueRC24, Nov 17, 2022.

  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Back on two wheels and about to go at the calipers with new seals. image.jpg
     


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  2. Pdeano65

    Pdeano65 New Member

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    Rogue, looks great. We are at the same spot in our Miniseptor fork rebuild. My rotors were dead so eBay to the rescue. I don't have the position sticker on the Trac adjustment knob but you do. On yours, what number is next to the little set screw on the side of the knob? Not sure how much difference is makes in different positions but would be nice to know. Thanks!
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  3. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    #4 is the location of the set screw. The manual says that 1 is the least firm and 4 is the firmest. Looks good dude! it took a bit to get my rotors clean. The fork seal leak got into everything down there. All good now though. :)
     


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  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Set screw on my 86 is "4"

    And not that it ultimately matters, but those are both "Right" rotors.

    Also, check your fitment of the speedo drive. Looks like you might have the limit tab on the drive housing in front of the fork slider tab, not behind.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2023


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  5. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Nice. Hey Rogue, looking at the axle cap on your fork lower, it looks like there might be a gap in front. Just a reminder that Honda axle holders have a "Front" and that gets tightened completely first, and then you tighten the rear nut for your clamping force.
     


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  6. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Yeah I saw the F with the little arrow. No gap, just shadow. Although I didn’t know about the front first call out, now I know. Just kinda figured that is what I would want. Thanks dudes!

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  7. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Oh and it seems obvious, but clean out the all of the banjos on these old gals. image.jpg
     


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  8. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    This is how I like to flush and pre-fill the hydraulic lines. Inject straight into the the master with a little syringe. Sorry if this is repetitive. Still newb. First I fill the syringe with the old fluid and if is only dark but debris free I will force it down the line so it takes any ick with it. Then I clean the master. Once that is done then I put new fluid in the syringe and force that through to rinse fresh. Last is filling the master and injecting clean fluid once the lines are connected. Has worked well so far.
    I am going to try the new glass install from V4D once I get the right adhesive. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     


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  9. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Sight glass replacement under way. Punch glass out and wire wheeled interior surface. Also placed a cleaning swab into master area to keep debris out.


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  10. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Alright wiring question. I have running lights and right side blinkers work as expected, but left flashes quickly but both bulbs work. What am I missing?
     


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  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Switch the bulbs L + R and see if the problem moves.
     


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  12. bmart

    bmart Insider

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    Are the dash indicators part of the circuit? Are those working?
     


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  13. chuntera

    chuntera New Member

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    So the "old" way to do this is replace the sight lens with watch glass.
    The advantage of this is the mineral glass will last longer, harder to scratch and won't yellow in the sun.
    The downside is the watch glass will probably need some sanding to fit, and then you have epoxy/seal it into place.

    The "new" way is to replace the aluminum bezel along with the lens. Lots of example videos can be found online.
    (eg. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-replacement-brake-master-cylinder-sight-glass-p)
    The advantage is your are replacing the old nasty oring along with the lens. However the replacement lens are cheap (ie. thin) plastic that scratches easily and probably won't last long.

    Apparently the sight lens size varied over the years and trying to force it doesn't work.
    [​IMG]
     


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  14. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I will need to look at gauge cluster tonight once I switch the bulbs over. It was kind funny, because when I plugged in the lights one at a time they initially didn't want to work. Low beam worked but not high beam and then BAM! Same with each front running light. I think this bike has been sitting so long the electricity had to re-energize the wiring loom.
    Probably talking out my arse, but besides the fast blinking everything works. Thanks dudes!
     


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  15. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    So I think it is just the bulb clinging to life.
    2023-03-20 13.06.27.jpg
     


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  16. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Poor guy. Put him out of his misery.
     


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  17. Pdeano65

    Pdeano65 New Member

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    LOL, I just did this too. Joe's tutorial on V4dreams is an excellent guide. The sanding seemed pretty simple. The hardest part was getting the right amount of glue on there. I might replace the whole thing like ColdDevil suggested if I had t do it again but way better than before. Swift-B0193 11.jpg
     


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  18. Pdeano65

    Pdeano65 New Member

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    Sorry, I mean like chuntera suggested.
     


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  19. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Pdeano65, I would like to see your end result with the new glass when you have a chance. I think I need to work on removing the old o-ring still.
     


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  20. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Curing image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     


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