Rogue's NC30 Project

Yeah, I spent a bit of time on that and couldn’t get them to go above the triple. It was weird. I will probably address it again tomorrow. Some times I keep pushing to be done and come up with terrible ideas. Lol

 

Per Capt80s observation, cables have re-routed. As a side bonus that will keep the clutch cable from getting pinched by the lower triple stop.

 

Something to be aware of, if you didn't already know. Always verify the flexibility of your idle adjust screw ( 6"+ w/spring). The elongated spring portion deformed permanently so it will no longer rest exactly where you want it.
I was having idle issues which originated from the adjuster screw moving itself when I forced it to rest in the holder on the side of the frame. I was like.."wtf", why does my idle keep moving. I know it has a retention spring, but nearly 30 years of corrosion, sitting in the same spot has killed it. I wants to lay in one spot and that is 4k or under 1k.
They have been discontinued so I will need to make a new one or find a long enough one from a more modern bike (slim chance with FI). M4 I think. I found a longer fastener in my leftovers pile to make due but you will burn yourself if you have to adjust while hot. lol
Time to research!

 

Maybe try heating it up while it is fixtured straight (or slightly opposite bend) and letting it cool while being held.

And if it seems to work (at least kinda), put a dab of high strength silicone where the screw threads engage the throttle stop bracket to hold it after setting operating temp idle.

After thinking about that last part, it's probably nearly inaccessible if it's that long...

Maybe you can put some silicone near the knob where the shaft interacts with a holding bracket.

 

^^ I is buried. I can just get it with my finger tips, but it was hot in there and almost no room for gloves. I think I will strip the original rubber coating off and mess with straightness and/or flexibility. If that doesn't I might just try and make something. Maybe weld a spring/nob situation. hmmmmm
I do like the locking method on the knob holder with silicone. Possibly even a pin locking thingamajig.

 

If you strip the coating, heat and straighten and re-apply some heavy duty shrink tube it might be enough. Then a dab at the holder.

 

After stripping down, there are fused sections (rust?). I will take it to my welding buddy. He comes up with some cool solutions to unusual problems. lol

I had time last night, so I decided to put my rear caliper together and I am missing parts...fack. So bummed. I was so distracted by the other issues during disassembly, that I looked over the missing parts. #5 and #25. And #23 is hammered. Looks like another CMSNL order.. boo more delays. 25 and 23 are used on over 1500 other honda models/years according to CMSNL.

 

I don't think you need to pay for shipping from The Netherlands for those parts.

 

You are correct. I found a new stash of All Ballz parts from other builds. Apparently I have 3 new hanger pins. I can still use the locking nut (23) with a little clean up. It is just finding the metal flange spring (5) thing now.

I have been trapped by my wife's Nova wiring harness + for 3 months now. I can see out of the woods. Almost there, and then I can get back to the VFR.

 

43108-KS6-701 s/s to 43108-MY6-671

Bummer, no US bike takes that Spring Pad. Yeah, you might be making a CMSNL order. Hope you find it in your parts. Looks like the one I gave my neighbor for a small rear Honda caliper he happened to have for a custom job. I had one. He then found his, but I didn't get mine back and he is in the middle of a move from hell.

Shoot me some dimensions though, I have a HUGE bag of Spring Pads.

Not critical for test rides, it just keeps the pads from rattling around. But I wouldn't run like that for long, likely very hard on the pin, #25.

 

Honda 43108KS6701 superseded or optionally 43108MY6671, I think. Time for a net search.

 

Got a hit on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/p/655141097

See if I can find it anywhere else for cheaper. Doubt it.

 

I'm an idiot. My search had the dashes in wrong places. I was very confused on why no US models shared that part #.

Pretty much every CR dirt bike form the late 80s, 90 and 00's.

Find one used maybe, they don't go "bad".

Shoot me some dimensions like I said. I probably have a brand new one blister packed with some Honda brake pads I have. With USPS rates lately, prob cost as much for me to ship it than buying from that eBay listing tho.

 

Shipping is just so crazy anymore. This is probably about the cheapest it is going to get. lol

 

Ahh caliper builds, just such a clean process. Lol Everything goes into the sonic bath now.

 

Calipers loaded with fresh stuff and ready for reassembly.
My first master rebuild. Fingers crossed.

 

Beside o-rings and spring tension, what else should I look for on the MC? My kit came with full replacement parts,so didn’t know if I should keep the old piston?

mission complete. Wasn’t so terrible. Lol

 

All linkage cleaned and new switch mounted. Had no brake lights when operating the front lever.

 

Oh one last thing. I was able to break apart the rust on the idle adjust screw by soaking it in tri-flow for a week and bending it mm by mm. Clutch cable is not set yet.

 

Nice work!

What model Ultrasonic do you use, and would you do anything different after using that model?