Rogue's NC30 Project

any ideas what causes the white calsified corrosion-looking buildup in the cooling system, and how to prevent it or is it years-old coolant no maintenance ?

 

I have to imagine this bike did a lot kilometers and a lot of sitting. I found a lot of calcified build up around the cylinder/crank case cross tube area.

I was actually going to ask if anyone has a solid method for flushing the engine coolant out of every port? I used a garden hose on the 750, but unsure how effective that was.

Then entirety of the "external" cooling system has been removed. The only portion that I can see holding water is the main case. Thoughts on flushing are welcome.

 

Get it back together and fill with distilled water. Run and drain, then fill with coolant. You can also wrap a rag around an air gun tip and blow into the ports to push some more remnants out. But you'll never get it all, so flush and repeat until it runs "clear", then fill with your coolant mix of choice.

I've flushed with a hose before too, but I still did distilled a few times after assembly.

 

I can tell you if there is any grime, grit, scale, etc. water flushing will get you nothing. Try some Prestone. Cheap. I use 1/3 per bike.

 

^^ Good stuff. Kinda what I thought, but nice mental affirmation. I use Water Wetter/Distilled in everything so I will continue with current methods. Seems to be the going process.

Thanks dudes!

 

open the 2 cylinder drains too for flushing. old school method uses 1/2 box of baking soda added to water then run up to temperature before draining, letting it cool then flushing.

 

I'm always nervous to touch those things, I have never cracked one open. Like a plastic drain valve on a radiator.

"Now yer fucked."

And I didn't HAVE to do it.

 

I did that once on one bike. The heads both turned off. I had to drill, tap, etc. It sucked and I got no benefit at all from it.

 

Is this a "real men remove cylinder drain bolts" moment?

 

Then I'm not a "real" man. I'm a realist.

 

It sure is. I always pull them out, replace with new blue ti bolts and new sealing washers, coat with copper anti-seize and install. Never fear the drain plug.

 

Sand blast, vapor hone followed by engine clear. Ready to go back in.

 

You might consider mixing a batch of JB Weld and skimming the pitted spigot surfaces behind the bead. Sand it back down to a smooth surface, then paint. I've done that on my last 3 cooling system restorations to varying degrees and am very glad I did.

 

Now I gotta go buy J to the B weld..

 

Swing arm snafu. Apparently the c
“Cleaner” swing arm is slightly longer than the other unit. 1.2cm longer…roughly. Chain is riveted and I was never sure if this was going to be a keeper. So before I spend tons of money the other swing arm is going back on since I don’t want to use a different chain.
Sconce I got agitated, I am going to set that down and go after valve should be interesting.

3hrs later. Does the elliptical adjustment move that much? Could I theoretically just loosen the adjuster ring to shorten the distance 12-14mm? The tech feature in the manual was very interesting.

 

I am still learning. Yes I can adjust the elliptical axle adjustment to fit the old chain. Adjusted valves and have just one that is an issue. Gonna order some shims. Anyone have a decent shim source? I used to use Hotcams, but that was a decade ago.

 

Yes. Those sure look like the exact same swingarm. And just look at the pic with the original on top. You see how much offset is available on that adjustment? The original is pretty much full forward.

I'd for sure install the one that wasn't "clearanced" by the rearsets.

 

Agreed, I mounted non- machined swing arm. Rotated and bam. Complete swap. I can be really special these days. Lol glad I swapped too, because the original swing arm is seized and the caliper is trapped until I remove the snap ring. Don’t own a big enough plier so I will take it to work.

 

Anyone have issues with Hotcams valve shims? Let me know before I order the kit tonight. lol

 

Mine worked just fine. Be sure to buy all that you need (the right kit(s)). Especially if they're original, as they won't have a lot of variation to move around. Some shops will swap a few for you.

Make a spreadsheet to work from. It makes a world of difference.