Restoring a BLUE '87 VFR700F2H

Good eye, FD! Thanks for the head's up! I'm pretty sure I have a bolt and nut that will fit. No saggy bottoms allowed!

 

Hey everyone......new topic!

On my latest RC26, I don't have a key for the helmet lock/seat release.

I removed the lock and it has 6 digits. I'm told the last 3 digits are the key code.

Just to clear up any confusion....the ignition and gas cap was changed out by the seller and I have keys for those. Somehow this lock was overlooked, I'm assuming. I bet the bike didn't even have a key when he acquired it. Just guessing.

I tried all my other RC26 keys and none worked.

I've already sent a message to an eBay seller asking about a replacement key and he said "No problem, I can make those for you." so I went ahead and ordered 2 of them.

Here's the lock with digits. 6BDC83 - so key code should be C83?

Thanks!

 

C83

Correct

 

My first VFR....note the front signals.......hugging that fairing!

It was an '87 (originally white).

 

I started moving some of my bikes to my new storage unit today. So far I got 3 over there. The last one was my '77 BMW R75-7. It's a beautiful bike and one of my favourite riding bikes....something about that boxer engine design = low center of gravity. Just puts a big smile on my face!

But had a slight delay getting her over there because of some fuel leaks so changed out the petcocks and fuel lines and all better now. Luckily I had everything on hand. Overdue on swapping petcocks so just as well to get it done tonight. I cheated on the crossover line and ran it behind the air box. Will reset it later when I have more time.

I was considering taking the Blue bike (that this thread is about) but the dang clutch wasn't disengaging - so here we go again. I know the drill and will get at it in the morning. I think I have both rebuild kits. Engine sounds great though!

Looks like I will have plenty of room for 6 bikes total in the 10x15 storage unit. Hopefully I will be bringing them all back home again by Spring....

 

Problems with my clutch repairs yesterday so took a day off today to go through a box of spares and get some of it better organized so I know exactly what I have.

I have 2 sets of locks and keys, one with a fuel tank and one just the cap. Missing the helmet lock on the latter, I think.

Also a tool kit that I think is pretty complete along with Honda badged tool bag (not in photo).

I will need that fuel tank for my second blue bike whenever I get around to it's "awakening".....hopefully soon!

 

What about this "insulator" that goes under the fuel tank? Not in the greatest condition...but it is original...lol!

Can I substitute a different material that does the same thing? Use this one as a template? TIA for any input!

 

Tank protector, cushion, LP reflectors, and that little bushing that goes on the front where the fuel tank attaches to the frame!

 

Fuel cap screws, I think......and a couple battery bolts......

 

OK back to the Blue bike. Still trying to get the clutch working. I have put all new seals in and bled the system and have very good lever resistance......yet the clutch still does not disengage. Start the bike, pull clutch lever, put in gear, back wheel turns. Did this while on the paddock stand as well as on cement drive.

The clutch rod seems to be OK.

I took the slave cylinder off and operated the clutch lever and I can see the piston moving in and out. I don't have enough experience though to know if this amount of movement is adequate (please see video below).

And if so...what is the next step in diagnostics/trouble shooting?

Thanks in advance for any input!

PS - In the video....the piston is sticking out a bit. This is because I had already tested it before I shot this clip. But it pushes back in just fine when I have 2 hands free.....

 

It sounds like your clutch plates are frozen together, and it can happen on bikes that have sat, usually long periods, but some bikes can do it like when coming out of winter storage.

Put the bike in gear (maybe 2nd or 3rd?), pull the clutch in and rock back and forth on concrete that has good grip. The clutch should break free.

If you get it free, it will likely ride and operate just fine but could still move a rear wheel if on a stand with the clutch pulled in. Just so you don't think something is still wrong. Not saying the clutch won't start slipping after you get some miles on it though in higher gears.

There is another unsafe way to do it if that doesn't work, that I have used a few times.

 

Thanks....really appreciate the advice, Capt!

Same thing happened to my old '81 TR7. And I'd do the same thing you suggested - using reverse gear because for some reason it always worked better than any of the forward gears.

I will report back......

 

Problem solved......just like that! Wish I had tried this earlier but I guess the upside now is the clutch hydraulics are all refreshed.....lol....

THANK'S, Capt!!! You rock, my brother!

BTW.....I put it in 3rd gear and placed my left foot up on my (lowered) HF lift table to get a little more leverage. It really helped!

 

I was going to suggest it was just slightly stuck.

On the 88/89 from memory you can look through the oil filler port enough to see if the clutch is moving. IIRC the earlier 750 (and so presumably 700 as well) has a different filler location so unsure if you can see the clutch from there on that.

 

Took her out for a short run around the hood and all went well. I want to put some miles on her to get some fresh fuel through the fuel system and also exercise the moving parts a bit.

There's a fair amount of work left to do but for now she's up and running again and I need to move on to a couple other bikes temporarily - the Ninja to get it running again (fuel issues) and the Red bike ('90 VFR750) that just needs the fairings re-installed. I want to polish the fairings on that one before re-installing and want to do this on my lift table after I've finished with the Ninja.

I also wanted to say that Kerker muffler on the Blue bike sounds INSANE and I plan to do a short go-pro vid of her tomorrow with sound and will post it here.

The Ninja ('06 500R) is already on the lift and I will start on her tomorrow. Have to also say she's much lighter than the Blue bike - much easier to roll up on the lift!

 

And the early bikes are the **lightest** of all the VFRs too! A couple of KG lighter than the later RC24 and a significant amount lighter than the RC36 etc, only the 98-01 VFR800 comes close (and that's still 10kg heavier "dry").

 

Curious why the bike on the stands on the lift is strapped down.

 

I don't want to take any chances it would fall over. I have enough on my plate without dealing with self-inflicted wounds!

 

Since I didn't get any replies regarding this post/question, I decided to take a look at some of the products available online and ran across this material so I ordered a 2' x 5' piece and will see if it fits the bill. I will post back after it arrives and I have a chance to test it out. $17.76 from Amazon:

Thermal Heat Guard Sound DEADENING Adhesive Reflective AUTO Insulation CAR Truck Van SUV RV Vehicle Sound Deadener MAT PAD Exhaust Muffler Hood Door Trunk Waterproof 1/4INCH Thick (2 ft x 5 ft)

 

Should work just fine. Might be a tad thick for some spots but should compress nicely.