Reg/Rectifier in Rockville, MD

I think as per Jack's instruction is to plug up, or tape up all the old connectors of the OEM harness & either solder or crimp the 3 yellow wires from the kit to the yellow wires of the stator, no particular order.

May be this can help
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/43032-Regulator-and-Rectifier-Replace

and
http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20Videos.htm

 

Jack called me after I emailed him tonight!
I just tape off the the Green & the RW wires. Now I know why RoadsterCycle is the highest recommended RR here.
Bill

 

Nookiaz - I looked at your link. That's a great wiring job.

 

Thanks to Mikerob97 for the thread about his install. I got Jack's super kit since last year (!) but haven't had the will to do the install: I'm not very mech inclined & just too scared to cut any wires up! But many in this place who have swapped the OEM R/R with Jack's all say it's an easy job. Call me lazy/stoop about the install but I knock on wood every time I start mine up! And I did check my OEM connections & so far they're still good.
I'll make that a winter project, and I think I said the same thing last winter...And hopefully, it'll be like Mike's: nice & tidy!

 

You're going to have a Montreal length winter. Get lots of projects done.

 

New RR and used ICM installed. 14.4 v at 5k rpm. Woo hoo!

 

I'm glad you got things worked out! ICM= Ignition control module?

 

You got it. VFRs have ICMs. Other guys only get ECUs.
I bought a replacement for every bulb on the bike today. They were all blown out when the system went down. They only had one stock 45w bulb. I'll have to weight for the twin to arrive. The best way to get at those headlights is to take off the front fairing. Not my favorite thing to do to change a bulb. I'll get the rest of the tupper ware on tomorrow and hope all my wires are still happy.

 

Your regulator failed the same way mine did, allowing the voltage to go way above 14 volts. Mine went over 36 volts, the maximum my voltmeter could withstand, because it blew out the voltmeter and the battery split open blowing acid all over the frame, rear wheel, etc. I have rewired the charging system similar to a VFRness, installed an FET regulator, and replaced the sealed battery with a standard flooded type with a clear case and vent tube. That allows me to see if the battery is using water, and if it overflows, the acid will go out a drain tube where it should do less damage. The new R/R is mounted to the left passenger peg bracket where it gets lots of airflow. The bottom of the battery box was cut out and a new, lower, bottom was pop riveted in to take a standard 14LA2 size battery.

If you have electrical problems, the first thing to do is unplug the R/R. From your description, your ignition module probably survived the first blowout. You destroyed it later at home when you fired up the bike with a new battery but the faulty regulator. That blew the ICU and the 10A fuse and killed the engine until the R/R and ICU were replaced.

You can limp home with a replacement battery and R/R unplugged running a total loss system. If you are with a friend, maybe you can swap batteries from time to time letting his bike recharge one battery while you are running on the other.

 

Now I know. Thanks, Henry
My bike is running good now. But, I forgot to replace the light bulbs in the meters.
The Fuel light is always on.
The speedo isn't working.
Tomorrow I'll get after that. Henry, any suggestions?
Cheers,
Bill

 

The bike has been running good. The speedo won't work anymore. Four blown bulbs on the instrument panel. I'm buying one off eBay. Since the FUEL light stays on, I'll find out if I need a new 'sending unit' with a good panel.