R/R upgrade advice.

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by michaels214, Aug 19, 2012.

  1. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    just saying :cool:
     


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  2. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    ^^^^^ good stuff - - - thanks
     


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  3. SinNH

    SinNH New Member

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    I think it is sort of a guessing game, but I'll ask anyway. Does the actual RR actually fail - or- does it fail because of the overheating of the molex to the stator?:confused:
    I just inspected my stock unit, looks fine, but the stator molex showed a small sign of overheating, not much, so I cleaned up the terminals and coated with di-electric grease.
    Also cleaned the back of the RR and coated with heat sink paste on both sides of the aluminum plate.
    I'll keep an eye on it.
     


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  4. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    the r/r fails, connecters melt, my r/r was just replaced again yesterday. used a electrosport r/r part # esr587. rmstator also carriers a good unit at 69 dollars can. i have yet to find any r/r that are not shunt type, open type would be nice. it would free up hp and save on stators as they drop current in the stator to 0 when not needed. shunt style dumps all current to gnd through r/r. that is a 25 amp draw on the stator when not needed. hence the burnt stator wires. i am working on a design for an open type of regulator for my bike
     


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  5. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    ^^^ What you describe is a series switching design. Compufire 55402 R/R are that type and I'm running one on my 5th gen. I have only one season on it so far. The bike seems to run cooler with it.

    Check
    Compufire R/R install wrap - up on a 5th gen (finally) - Electrical - VFR Discussion

    A 5th gen Compufire R/R adventure - Electrical - VFR Discussion

    Just Installed a Compufire Series Regulator - Electrical - VFR Discussion


    Lets start a new thread to talk about it.... and get back to helping the OP....:biggrin:

    Go here rjgti...
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...s-style-design-such-compufire.html#post373572

    btw - electrosport R/Rs arent all that reliable.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012


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  6. SinNH

    SinNH New Member

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    Ahh. Excellent, thanks for explaining.
     


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  7. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    as for how reliable it is, that remains to be seen. but temp wise it was warm to the touch after a 1 hour ride. did not take my temp probe or meter with me
     


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  8. michaels214

    michaels214 New Member

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    Well, got the job done today. Hopefully i did an ok job....LOL I got the stock RR, along with everything else I need, under the seat - in case of failure. Seems to be ok though. I did a test after I was done and was getting about 14.0v at idle (very slight variation from 13.95-14.1). It was 14.2v when I revved it up a little past 4k - didnt want to cause too much of a fuss in my condo complex lol. This is the super mosfet kit from roadstercycle.com - The FH020AA regulator with all the good connectors - If anyone didnt read from the beginning. Thanks for all the advice!
     


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  9. CRFan1

    CRFan1 New Member

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    You are right where you need to be and mine puts out almost identical numbers. Go ride and enjoy :)
     


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  10. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    The R1 Regulator is not a MOSFET regulator. I would not use that one.
     


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  11. michaels214

    michaels214 New Member

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    The FH020AA? Why is it advertised as one on roadstercycle.com?
     


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  12. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    Yep, you are correct. It depends on what year you get.

    The 2004+ R1 R/R is a MOSFET type.
     


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  13. michaels214

    michaels214 New Member

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    Im sure jack at roadstercycle.com isnt advertising a "FH020AA Mosfet Kit", while selling people a non mosfet part..So they must be the "2004+ RR's" you speak of.

    EDIT: Arent the FH020AA the 2012 upgrade anyway? Thats the impression I was under...that they were 012AA beforehand and in 2012 they were changed to the 020AA.
     


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  14. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    I am sure his isn't too. I skimmed the thread and saw R1 R/R and jumped to a conclusion. No malice intended.

    I have a FH010BA sitting on my tool box and I am starting to wonder if it will be OK. I don't have any electrical farkles on my '99 except a speedohealer, which doesn't eat much. The bike had the "upgraded" Honda R/R on it when I acquired it back in 2009.

    I have searched for a current rating on these FH0xxx R/R and have come up empty. Any ideas on that?
     


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  15. michaels214

    michaels214 New Member

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    Im not sure..Im pretty NOOB at this technical stuff. I basically just did my research and this forum to help me choose what route to go on my RR upgrade. The roadstercycle.com kits seems to be a popular choice. Like I said im pretty NOOBish about this stuff but I got it installed and went on a couple of 60 or so mile rides and everything seems to be ok..The wires and RR itself stayed cool when I pulled the seat and checked it. I know, not the most technical test - but thats the problem with the stock one right? getting too hott?
     


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  16. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    I think you guys are really twisting and turning things here. Some stuff.........
    Honda, Yamaha, Suz and Kawi mostly buy the production R/Rs from Shindengen Japan and have been for decades. - The whole R1 R/R thing came about because I think Yam was one of the first to go to the MOSFET set R/R, and guys took notice and started adapting it on other bikes. I dont know the exact year, but 2004 is close. Its still a Shindengen product. The way to tell a nonMOSFET vs a MOSFET is the part number on the R/R is either starts with a SH or FH. --- -A SH is the old tech design, a basic shunt style. The FH is a MOSFET set. -- As far as bike manufactures today who is using what, I dont know, but I'm guessing Yam is 100% FH... - I have no clue whether Honda finally joined the party, but I think I heard not. - (cheap bastards)

    As for the Roadstercycle kit, just semantics, but you are buying a Shindengen part, not a R1 part. Seems that theres kinda Kleenex/tissue-- Xerox/copy association going on. Anyhoo, it is the FH MOSFET part and is what you want...... Another tidbit is what I heard is that the FH0020 part is latest gen. Also, Shendengen got hit hard by the Tsunami, and to identify parts made after the new production of startup after the storm, they added the 20 designation to the R/R to keep track for quality tracking purposes.

    Last 2 cents ---- The R/R is a critical part on your ride and IMHO its never a good idea to buy a used one. That's just me....

    Beers for all.... :cool:
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2012


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  17. michaels214

    michaels214 New Member

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    Thanks for the great explanation Mellow Dude. Everything makes sense now. I only bought the thing because people say its the way to go, and i feel confident riding with it now.
     


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  18. Deadsmiley

    Deadsmiley Insider

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    Ok, I found it. The FH010 is rated for 35a. The FH012 is rated for 50a. (peak)
     


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