R/R Blowout Recovery

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by Guaire, Oct 27, 2014.

  1. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    Does anyone know how to remove the two wire busses from the rear of the instrument panel?
    I'm mostly recovered from my regulator/rectifier blow out. Bike 'seems' to run better than ever. I've got lots of new light bulbs all over. On the instrument panel some of the light sockets are dead. The Fuel light stays on. The Fuel Gauge works. Tach works. Anything that was running when the RR blew up the voltage, got blown out. The speedo doesn't work. I have 12+ volts at the wires in the rear that transmit speed to the harness. I'm waiting on an instrument panel off eBay to show up from Emeryville, CA. Maybe in a few more days???
    The instrument panel is free except for the two wire busses plugged in the back. I've pulled on 'em. No go. Anyone ever do this and know how to get them off without breaking any wiring?
    Here's some pix, wide and CU.
    Bill in Arlington, VA

    DC area people check "DC Motorcycle Riders" on Facebook.
     

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  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    The blue connector appears to have a catch in the middle on the bottom, usually squeeze top and it should release. Green may have same, but not visible. They look like special connectors use with printed circuit traces rather than connector pins on instruments, so be careful.
     
  3. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    what allyance said^^^^^^^^
     
  4. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    Thanks, Allyance, for being the voice of reason. I got 'em out. Now all I need is for the ebay job to arrive. They were tabbed. Darn hard to see though.
    Bill
     

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  5. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    I got the new instrument panel on. The fuel light stays on and it gauge reads very full. Looks like my sending unit got damaged. The speedo still isn't working.
     

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  6. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    The sending unit is on the way. I did the testing sequence for the speedo. I didn't get voltage while holding a VOM probe on the pink wire of the 10 wire bus that plugs in back of the interment panel, the other probe going to ground, all that while rotating the rear wheel. No voltage means the speed sensor is bad. I'm getting one shipped in from eBay.
     
  7. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    Looks like you broke the tab off the green one. Those suckers are really hard to get out. I've had to remove mine at least half a dozen times in the last few months, as I also have been dealing with a bunch of electrical issues that originated from a bad Shorai battery.

    My speedometer is also inop at the moment, and I have done just about everything to get it working again. It has been disgusting here since Halloween (pouring rain, 30mph wind gusts, and 45 degrees), so I have not been able to continue my diagnosis.

    However, I'm interested to see what your issue ends up being. I have already done all of my tests as per the FSM, and have also replaced the speedometer sensor (a used eBay one) without any luck. I even replaced all of the guts of my speedometer unit with used parts (as the PCB had a fried resistor).

    I am at a loss now, since I could not get the 4.7-5.3 volt pulse at the gauges (or at the speedo sensor) with either sensor. I've tested for voltage at the sensor plug and at the back of the gauge, and made sure that the flexible wiring on the back of the gauges is fine.
     
  8. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    Well, I resolved my own speedometer issue.

    From my parts cluster, I swapped the PCB and the speedo 'motor' into the old gauge guts (to retain my mileage). Swapping the 'motor' requires pulling the needle off the pin and re-installing the needle on the cluster that is 12v+ energized at 0 mph. If you install it with the gauge not energized, it will jump to 35mph when the key is switched on.
     
  9. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    VT Viffer - well you inspired me. I just removed my old speedo from the cluster I replaced with a used eBay one. Like you, I'll keep my original odometer. The speed sensor I got from eBay was good. Also, the fuel tank sending device was good as well. The low fuel light is off and the meter is about right.
    Tomorrow I'll pop in my original speedo. Still have re - assembly to do, including getting my throttle lock and the cool rear Givi case. It's getting rebuilt, better than ever.
     
  10. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    All depends on which speedo has the most miles on it :shame:
     
  11. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    My original has 8k more, but it's the accurate one.
     
  12. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    In my case, the parts speedo had 87k and mine had 26k. Made sense to keep mine, dontcha think?
     
  13. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    But if you put the parts speedo in and rode it for another 20k it would only be showing 7k win win
     
  14. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    VFR odometer is 6 digit, sorry
     
  15. Guaire

    Guaire New Member

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    In Virginia you can specify odometer details.
    My old meter didn't work anyway. Back the 12k eBay job.
     
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