Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Gman, Aug 15, 2008.
No, it had a PCIII (with a custom tune) and K&N filter, but no other mods besides the exhaust.
my gen 2 is cracking 150 ponies right now... custom exhaust carb work, and slick50 !!!!!!!!! buy you slick 50 products at an auto parts store near you.
(this commercial break brough to you by chat hooers local 151 when posting meaninful stuff just isn't enough.
ok seriously... TORO good on you for doing the build .. but I have a question.. your supercharger looks like a turbo charger..... not trying to offend but I picture a supercharger strapped to the intake manifold. (mad max style) I am sure you have answered this question a bazillion times.. so there it is for bazillion and 1.
errr turbo and super charger the same thing minus the turbo is hooked to exhust ( free power ) and super charger is belt driven so it cost a few ponies to drive it.
hmmm..didn't know they were the same thing. since one is driven by exhaust gases and one sucks by being belt driven...
You're picturing a positive displacement style supercharger. The Rotrex is a centrifugal supercharger, and, as already has been pointed out, is essentially a belt driven turbo.
Make no mistake, a turbo costs power to turn too, it is just more efficient as it taps into otherwise wasted energy going out the exhaust. I estimate it takes about 10-12hp to turn the Rotrex at redline on the VFR, but I will gladly trade a few ponies for the seamless power delivery, instant throttle response, and tunability that a supercharger provides.
What does it sound like when you're really getting on it?
You can barely hear the supercharger. The Rotrex does not use gears, so there's no classic whine. The only thing you can hear is a slight whistle/whoosh when you really start making some boost, and the sound of the bypass valve on decel and in-between shifts. Check out some of the vids on this page and see if you can hear anything out of place.
One thing you can't tell from the videos is how smooth the engine gets, and it's not just your mind playing tricks on you -- due to the greater amount of air being packed into the cylinders, the combustion process takes place over more degrees of crank rotation than it would on a naturally aspirated engine.
Well, toro1, that will get a guy's attention.
Don't mess with Mr. A's hp numbers.........Sorry, Dan, still on the fence about the longevity issue. Your immmediate results are undeniable, however.
Some1 gimme their email and I'll send my results to be posted.. I'm doing this on an iPhone.. Stock 96.. Leo's and air box tweaks went to 100.76... No PC or maps yet.
Cheers... First is stock HP and air fuel.... The second is HP and Torque with with leo's, K&N, flaper and PAIR mod with snorkle removed..
Here is mine as an overlap pre and post tune with all mods already installed
Ok i have been modifying my bike for ages and have just finished all the mods recommended from reading the forums. I got 106hp from the dyno and was rally stoked, the suspension is dialed in great. The rear ohlins shock is mint. but all of a sudden the engine has stared backfiring when backing off on the revs especially when dropping back below 6500 rpm and fuel consumption has increased about 25% when going hard. @#$%&* mechanic is on holidays for a month @#$%^&*. help
maybe something came loose with the pair block off? vacume lines?
OK thanks for that I shall investigate that avenue. cheers
I checked that avenue out and all seems in order, the exhaust is showing heavy black carbon so I am going to try leaning up the mid range with the PC. I am not much of a mechanic so I am probably going to mess things up, but hey its messed up already. the dyno guy said he tried to smooth out the vtec. Dont know why things would change though.
hows the opperating temperature? id definetely ask for a refund or do-over on the dyno tune.
I am back at work now (work on ships),
The operating temperature seems good the last ride I went on before I left was a hot day 37C. I compared temps with a mate on a VTR 1000 and they were the same.
I loaded the map into my computer and had a look at it. The low was set to 3750rpm, mid 7250rpm.
I leaned up both low and mid rev range one light on the PC3
The result was Fantastic as far as performance went, it was the best result I have had since I start all the mods and it was better than stock but the backfiring is still there but not quite as bad. The guy who did the Dyno has a big rep and is by appointment only, he does most of the top race teams in my neck of the woods but is still on holidays so havent talked to him yet. His approach was to smooth out the vtec which he has done but I am thinking that this may be the problem. I dont have a problem with the vtec because when I go hard I just get the revs above 7000rpm and stay there. I am thinking of getting him to re dyno but with the approach of getting the best from the vtec instead of trying to change it. What do you think ??
did he not tune each individual fuel cell?
theres a lot more to a proper tune than just low, medium, and high.
there should be:
0% 2% 5% 10% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% multiplied by
0 250 500 750 1000 1250 1500 1750 2000... all the way to 13,000 rpms
as in he should have tuned hundreds of individual fuel cells, not just the 3 low med and high...
my bad if you know all this, and im just mis-understanding you.
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