Pre- and Post- first lay down

measure for voltage at the ign switch with key on

 

@rjgti Where exactly would this voltage check be taken place? Sorry I'm just not sure.

Btw, I think new development... I just checked the (3-phase - oh yeah, did some research!) stator plug on the left side of the bike... According to the manual I should have continuity one way and not the others... And well, I have continuity across all three wires at the end of the plug. This probably means At least the plug needs to be replaced, or that the stator needs to be replaced.

But, aside from that problem, might a faulty stator/its plug prevent dash lights and such coming on when I turn my key to ON?

 

that is wrong for stator test, it is ohm only. you want battery voltage at the switched side of ign switch, I will have to dl the manual for your bike to give color codes on ign switch

 

Continuity is checked with the ohmmeter... here's my manual... only that I have a 700cc: 1986 VFR500F Manual

 

diode test gives ohms one way, not the other, stator will give same ohms both ways on same phase and the ohms will match either way on that phase

 

Okay. But I think offhand there is probably a problem, since there is continuity between the stator leads, as well as between each lead and the ground. So I am assuming that is already a problem?

But moreover, does this actually prevent turning my key to ON to get any dash lights/electricity?

 

no it will not

 

but that is a problem. your stator seems damaged. give me ohms to ground on each phase of stator, then give me ohms between each phase, label them a to b, a to c, b to a, b to c, c to a, c to b

 

that manual you sent. it gives a color code of L. I have no idea what l stands for, all other color codes I understand except that one. look aat your ign switch and tell me colors of wires. give me main color first with strip color second

 

I believe L is for "Light Blue".

The ignition switch, I think you mean out from where the key goes in on the ignition column. That bundle, as pointed out from the manual, is Red, Red/Black, Light blue/Orange, Brown/White, Brown, Yellow/Black. Also attached an image of the bundle itself.

Earlier in this thread, I have pointed out that I have checked the various continuity combinations at different switch positions and they all checked out. Moreover, the contacts have been cleaned and re-greased for a better fit.

 

check for B+ at red. then key on and check for b+ at all except yellow/ blue and red

 

By "check for B+" did you mean check for 12V (DC?)?

If so, am I doing the check correctly (as shown in the image, checking L)?

If I am doing it correctly, then I got nothing from Red at "P" position, and nothing from Red/Black, Light blue/Orange, Brown/White, Brown at "ON" position.

 

yes 12 v dc

 

no you need it attached to switch, use a pin to pierce each wire for positive(red) probe. black probe to frame, key in on postion. don't worry about p postion on ign switch

 

you say the starter runs as soon as a battery is hooked up ?? Should only run when start pushbutton is pressed, so u have a problem with the button stuck on, maybe, a result of the drop ?

 

Squirrelman, you are correct. The solenoid was weld shut. I have already replaced the relay to fix this. But my bike does not turn on right now (nor did the dash lights come on at the turn of the key after my bike turned off by itself on the day of the incident). All fuses have been replaced (30A main fuse and about another seven 10A located near the ignition switch).

Today after work I am taking my battery in to check, or replace if needed... Maybr a real battery charger... More process of elimination...

 

Yo TV,

I really think you should get the battery as your next step. Using your charger as a 12V source is not going to be good enough to power everything, your charger is giving you the voltage to power up but not necessarily the AMPERAGE to push your voltage to everything. I have experienced a similar situation with an SV650.

 

I disagree tim, a small charger is a good way to troubleshoot. he will not melt wires an fuses with the reduced wattage while he trouble shoots. he does need to post b+ at ign switch in on pos

 

I checked all 4 wires at the ignition ON and I got nothing...

P.S. brand new battery @12.75v

 

there ya go, was main red to ign switch 0v dc also?