Pre- and Post- first lay down

The continuity check shows you that the switch is not working. Either replace it or repair it.

The contacts have probably shifted internally in the switch due to the drop--they are just thin copper spring strips and could be easily dislodged. Not sure about the starter firing off when the battery was charged but the contacts in the start solenoid could be dislodged also, or in the start button making continuity all the time. Check continuity of the starter solenoid/relay near the main fuse (with the battery disconnected), and also the start button. Download the manual and printout or study the wiring diagram, plus review the electrical section on how to test all the switches, etc. Good luck it sounds like you are almost there...

 

This post is all over the map..... You charged the battery.......the bike tried to start all by itself? If that is a yes then your starter switch is stuck.. Which side did the bike fall on? Left or right? There is no side stand safety switch......


Welcome to the nut house...

 

Haha thanks for the nut house... This is kind of fun though, so far... but electricals.. ugh..

It fell on the "brakes" side - so you could be right, that the starter is stuck. Per kennybobby I have just gotten the ignition column off the bike... I will be disassembling and cleaning it, and I am planning on doing the same to the starter as well, to make sure the kill switch (and now the starter as well) is (are) operational...

[Haynes] Service manual ordered...

 

Haynes is not worth the shit paper that it's printed on--you need and want the factory service manual. Should be a download link to it somewhere on this site. Probably can find the haynes for download at carlsalter dot com

 

I agree.. The Haynes is good for wiping your arse with when you run out of newspaper... Spring for a pact obey manual... It will be worth it....if you fell on the right side (throttle side) you should check all the switches.. As well as the connections Check your ground and hot lead on the battery as wel as to the solenoid, and all the those in between.chances are it is something simple

 

Hey Trojan

If you check the SPECIFICATIONS section of the site you might be able to find a service manual that you can download to your computer. Not sure if there is one for your particular bike but it worth a look. I was able to download the Honda Factory Service Manual for my 2000 VFR and man has it ever come on handy. If you can get the factory service manual from your local Honda store it might be worth the added expense. I had a Haynes manual for my 97 VFR750 and it was somewhat helpful but one day I was able to photocopy the factory manual from a fellow VFR owner that I met up with on a ride. He popped by my house with his Honda Factory Manual one day after a ride and I would have to say that the Honda manual is goes in to much better detail than the Haynes manual. Just a thought.

I would offer assistance with your particular problem if I could but electronics diagnosis is something I suck at, though I have to admit with the help of many other site members, I am starting to get the hang of it. There is a fountain of knowledge to be gleaned from this site and it's many helpful members, so hang in there.

Welcome to the nut house and never forget that all VFR's are, as my wife likes to say, "SPECIAL, just their owners." Once you get everything sorted out, just ride and enjoy, as we are all sure you will.

 

Thanks for the advices on the manual... I found a copy of the 86 VFR750F and VFR500F manuals (per this and this post)... It should be close enough for what I am trying to do (I will still continue to hunt for the VFR700F though).

I figured it should be something stupid... The ignition column looks fine.... I'll clean the 6-pin contacts tomorrow and keep checking downwards of the harness...

 

So circuitry checked... still nothing... any more ideas?
- Ignition switch - Passed
- Starter switch - Passed
- Engine kill switch - Passed

Also, I'm still concerned as to the implications (damages?) of how my bike stopped on the day of the incident, and if that explains why I am unable to get power:
1. After the drop, the bike was still running. At this point Some coolant is dripping out (not profusely).
2. Gently drove it about 20-25 yards to the street in 1st gear.
3. While idling (and me putting it into position for street parking), the bike turned off completely by itself. Engine, electrical, everything.
4. Coolant drip continued about another minute or two and stopped, unless I shake the bike. I see this as a separate issue, though.

 

Time to loosen, clean, sand, and re-tighten the main ground wire connection.

 

By "main ground wire" did you mean the negative lead from the battery to the frame? If so... I just checked continuity there as well, and it looks good.

Also, I tried measuring voltage between the leads on the battery and I wasn't getting anything (I was expecting 12V? is that wrong?) But connecting a battery charger and turning it on, does in fact get the starter motor to start. Both of those outcomes seem wrong...

 

If you check the pos on the battery and the earth and it shown nothing that mean your battery is done. Zero, nada get a new battery and start again.

 

Do what squirrel said, but for both the positive and negative terminals on the battery, plus for the terminal lugs on the end of the positive and negative cables.

Be on the lookout for any corrosion or oxidation and clean the hell out of it till it is bare metal showing. An oxide layer acts as an insulator preventing current flow.

The battery may be broken internally from a drop also. Take your battery to autoshackzone or one of the other auto parts places that will test your battery.

 

Okay, after a lot of effort (including cutting off a bolt a previous owner forcefully installed to hold the side panel in), the problem seemed to have narrowed...

I disconnected and remeasured the battery, and I got 4.2V - not good. I'm currently trying to charge it with my car battery charger to get it back up. If that fails, I can always get a new battery.

I connected the leads that connected to the battery directly to my charger and still, my bike tries to start itself (without a key in the ignition). Could it be possible the drop caused something related to the starter to get stuck, then it just keeps trying to start, hence killing the battery, and now I have no power?

If so, perhaps I'll need to start checking the connections directly to the starter motor? What do you all think of my logic?
- Also, what to check, and roughly how? I have the manual...

I checked the starter relay switch - just wanted to ask - am I supposed to get continuity between the two big bolts shown in the image? The electric diagram seems to suggest otherwise... (I am aware I need to change to fuse to 30A)

 

The starter isn't stuck the solenoid is your the two big bolts on the solenoid are what you "cross". If you want to jump start the bike... Tap lightly on the solenoid. See if you can get it loose.. He'll just for kicks you might as well tap on the starter.. And your positive that your starter button is okay? After looking at the picture, you need to make sure that you wires are in good shape and that you plugged them in right... The green wire looks a bit...odd. The one in the right rear (as looking at the picture)

 

When you get power to the bike and it starts cranking automatically, do the dash lights turn on automatically aswell?

 

@crustyrider - my starter button is okay - a bit sticky (based on continuity tests), but I know its sweet spots to keep it disengaged vs. engaged.
Heck, I pulled out the right handle bar connection plug, connected power, and the bike still starts... Does this point to a stuck/broken solenoid?

@slowbird - no, no lights (the key isn't in there either).

 

There should normally be no continuity between the two large bolts on the starter relay, if you have continuity then the relay contacts have welded together such that you have continuity all the time instead of only when you push the start button. That is likely what drained your battery and explains why it tries to start when you put the charger on the battery.

Need to replace the start relay, or dismantle and repair if possible.

 

Thanks kennybobby, crustyrider, and slowbird. I think we've found it.

The starter relay does in fact have continuity between the two bolts. Took it apart, and the two plates under those two bolts are somehow pushed up against the pin that connects the two (even when the unit is closed up).

I think this explains a lot now. The solenoid was already faulty when I bought the bike, which explains why during the trip, and when I got it home, it was making that 'noise' when I tried to kill the engine... It wasn't noise... It was the starter trying to start, hence disengaging the engine kill switch again at that point brought the engine right back. The consequential drop I made at that point only made me feel foolish and thought I broke the bike... (Well, a little bit. It is still leaking coolant from the radiator from its bottom corner...) And now I have no power because my battery was drained by it.

When I opened the solenoid, either I yanked it hard and disconnected one of the two copper wires, or it was already loose/disconnected. I don't see a way to solder it back on... I ended up checking continuity of the bolts as I held it in my hand and just rotated it, and the connection/continuity stayed on about 85% of the positions.

I figured, since it was already faulty, and for $30... I just ordered a brand new unit online, so I know it will be in good working order... It will be here on Friday (when I get out of town, boo.). Meanwhile, I need to loosen the bolt that is holding onto dear life/rust that holds in my battery, charge the battery and check its fluids (probably fine), and pray that that is all the problems I have regarding this whole experience.

Also, I should look into repairing that coolant leak... Attached image of the ground was about half of what dripped out it. The other image is of the corner of where it came out of. First thing's first, that IS coolant from the radiator, right? I'm guessing the drop made some of the parts not fit well anymore, and hence the leak? I'm thinking:
1. Drain the fluids.
2. Dismantle that corner of the assembly.
3. Clean, refit, make sure it is water tight.
4. Refill fluids and check

Thoughts? Or I could always just tape the hell out of it and call it done

 

A new relay sounds good. Test the battery and replace if necessary.

radiator-- leaks always drips off the bottom edge, but the crack or puncture may be somewhere in the middle or upper section. May have to pull it and take to a radiator shop to do a submerged pressurized test in a big tank to find the leak and solder it up... good luck

 

Finally an update - the new relay came, and is installed no problem. Now hooking it up to the battery doesn't cause the starter to start itself automatically. That's good.

However, still no ignition (turn key and the dash lights, brake lights, any lights are still off). Thoughts? The bike should be getting enough power, as I used my battery charger as the power source (was the same thing that my starter tried to start with). The ignition switch contacts (mentioned much earlier in this thread) are clean, and continuity are still good.