PAIR valve blockoff

I agree with you guys . Made a nice difference .

While I was there I took off that air intake "snorkel " . Makes real cool noise , and it must take in better air 'cause of the direction of the thing .

One thing I did notice is that it seems to take a few seconds longer to heat up ???? maybe its because its not taking in the hot air ???

No complaints with this little simple mod !! Its a must !

 

I tried it for some 3000km's then reinstalled the snorkel, agree induction noise sounded cool and did feel a slight top end improvment.

On the negative side found it messed up the low down and mid range a little and other VFR'ers that had tried and reverted mentioned the possibility of water in the airbox during sustained downpours.

 

according to my shop manual, the pair valve selenoid is normaly closed, when 12 volts is applied it then opens allowing the injection of the air to take place, sooooooo if this is true, one could just unplug the connector and acheive the same results.......right? (providing the manual is accurate)

 

I ve a surge that is predictible at 7-7200 RPM. I can live witht he cool VTEC surge that happens there... It was the unpredictable 1000-5000 RPM surging at any RPM within that range. Taking a slow corner trying to find that "sweet spot" of the throttle was darn near impossible to do untill the PAIR mod...

 

Why not just unplug the PAIR valve like TROY suggested?

I'll try this today and see what happens.

 

I just unplugged the PAIR valve 2pin connector. I was worried that the FI light would come on but itdid not. There's a definite change in the smell of the exhaust. More gassy smell. Did the flapper MOD also while I was under the tank. I just unhooked the the flapper from the vaccuum plunger above it and used a piece of black duct tape to hold the flapper down. Oh ya, I also pulled the snorkel out. All this takes about 15 mins to do. Taking it for a good ride tomorrow to check the changes.

 

mmm. Im sure there's Reason we Cordon Off the Air going to the Valve . I used an Irony(Ball Bearing ) for a Nice tight Fit . In the Long Run I'd Like to see People finding ways to increase the Bhp a bit , just for a bit more pull , As i seriously Doubt that I will Be Looking at a Sprint in Future .

I get the feeling the Sprint is No more than a Finely developed copy of the Vfr , I got the same impression about their First 600 , which looked to be an Exact rip-off of the Cbr 600 .



And they avoided the Pair valve thing on that bike . Nice power , but it Just aint a Vfr ...

 

In reference to this PAIR VALVE MOD, I just did it and let me tell you, it really does make a difference.

For you 6th gen folks (like me) all I did to complete this mod was remove the short hose connecting the airbox to the PAIR valve, use three 1.5" strips of electrical tape and block off the outlet of the airbox, then slide the hose right back onto the outlet over the tape.
This costs about 0.0009 cents, looks stock, and given the air pressures involved, should hold no problem.

If anyone sees a problem with this, let me know, but this seems way easier than any ball bearing insertion or anything.

Great mod, super cheap, too bad they arent all this cheap!

 

I finally had the dyno done! 111.2 HP Not bad. Pity I never had one done before as a comparison!

 

Shhiiiiiiaaat . 111.2 hp . Is that for Real dude ? Compared to what in nStock trim ?? The bike does Feel stronger without the Cat , but , unlike You , I have not yet done the Sync yet . I was going to ask you about that Next though , did it make a big difference ??

 

Yup, got the chart to prove it. I was quite impressed as the specs quote 108 hp and most don't achieve that even with fitting expensive Power Commanders! The Synch did not do much power wise but did help with smoothing the throttle response somewhat. I reckon it's just gutting the cat and after market pipes that provided the increased power. I have one of those 2 Bros stash systems. One pipe is just a dummy for storeage etc. I got tired of answering all the questions about the dummy pipe, had a link made and turned the dummy pipe into a true muffler. Sounds great! Almost like a mini V8 car when idling!

 

Pictures donder , Pictures... How can you do that without showing us the real Deal Man .
ai .
That hp is hectic .
I did a swift blast through to sedgefiled on saturday . wrote an exam , a confidential one . Halfway through one of the blokes walks out - exam paper in hand . I had to go and play Fetch booboo .

the coppers caught me at 186 km/hour in a 120 zone .... dont even ask what was going through my mind ....

Show us the pic man . I'm not too familiar with that exhaust .
Im thinkning about slipping on the leo vince set-up , saw on Vfr discussion .
ooohhh Nice...
Now I have the boss man thinkning about cut-backs on pay .
Jinne...kak timing man , kak timing .

 

I will figure out how to post the dyno chart and zorst pics as soon as I have some time!

Bummer about the coppers. Hope they didn't nail you too badly!

 

I ordered Leo Vince Pipes . They'll be here Friday .
Saturday I'll be broke .

 

Sorry guys but this is nonsense. Secondary air injections systems of bot the pumped and pulsed variety have been used on cars for over 10 years. They dump air into the exhaust ports to reduce emissions during times when the ECU is not running in closed loop mode with the O2 sensor. Usually during warm up when the cat's and sensors are not working and sometimes during deceleration. To suggest that Honda's motorcycle engineers did not realize that adding air would confuse the O2 sensor when the car guys have known it for more than a decade is just plain ludicrous. Bikes with carbs and PAIR use the air use a simple vacuum operated valve to operate it. FI bikes with O2 sensors need a solenoid (like our VFR's have) to turn the PAIR off when operating in closed loop mode. Since the PAIR only injects air into the exhaust ports it should have NO influence on fuel mixtures. If a PAIR valve is leaking by , it can and will influence fuel mixture in closed loop mode and will definitely make your engine run poorly. I would suggest that anyone that has seen major improvements in their bike's performance by plugging off the PAIR system had something wrong with the system. That said, I can certainly understand why you would disable it rather than fixing it. It is cheaper and easier. Those of you that tried this and it didn't seem to do much had a properly working PAIR system.

 

Quite true and well said.

I had an issue last year with the bike dropping power especially noticable in the low and mid range with worsening fuel economy and the odd backfire. After having my mechanic change plugs & replace air cleaner then perform an SV balanced was still suffering power loss & crap economy.

On cleaning the Pair valves found one gummed with crud open which was visible when looking through it into a torch. The problem is one of exhaust gas finding its way back into the airbox causing lower O2 into the intake manifold.

After I pulled the Reeds apart cleaning with brake cleaning solvent found both Fuel ecomomy and power was instantly restored back to 100% :smile:. Still if it happens again will probably block them off using blanking plates in place of the Reed valves and disconnecting the solenoid.

 

Wortman , your post makes sense , but after doing countless searches on both this forum and Vfr discussion forum , have they gotten something wrong ??
I have only done this modification due to the fact that One of the Regular posters on the other forum did more tests than I have posts . The nice thing is the mod is reversible , but we were lead to believe that the Pair opens and confuses the O2 sensor down below , thereby throwing the fuelling into dissarray . ?? That part at least made sense . What you have brought to light is WHEN it throws the fuelling into dissarray : The only thing that is important for ANYONE tungin a bike , is not what happens on decelleration , but more importantly what the A/F is under ACCELERATion. Correct ?
Is that what you are saying ?

CLosed Loop : Meaning : Meaning that the FI system is running with the O2 sensors giving it it's information ?? i'e closed loop mode ? I need someone to explain me Closed Loop mode .
Thanks

 

IF the PAIR opened while the ECU was running close loop ( using the O2 sensor to determine fuel requirements) it would certainly screw things up. What I am saying is that this is common knowledge and Honda's engineers would have to be complete idiots to allow that to happen and I seriously doubt that this is the case. As far as you searching countless posts, a phrase comes to mind. "commonly held misconception". The world is full of things the many folks believe that aren't true.

 

ok .

What about the transition period between constant speed , and then accelerating an extra 30km/H ? Does the Ecu come to a certain point , and then simply switch Pair off so that you can accelerate as per the rest of the chips programming ? I'm trying to gain a better understanding of just how the bike alternates between running Pair (closed Loop) , and then switching to the pre-programmed set up requiring no sensors .

This would explain then why everyone is so hyped about getting their bikes onto a power commander . Its a programmable fuel "chip" but for a bike . Meaning that the bike can then be tuned to ride , say 13;1 most of the time . How bad is the pre-programmed chip setup and does it at least compensate for altitude , going from , say 3500 ft above sea-level , to sea level ? how does that work sir ?