Painting the wifes bike

fine. reimburse me for the cost that I will pay to have these leathers fitted, and I will rush out and by some clear coat.

Actually, I just dont know if I should clear coat it before flyn and brooks work on it, this project is mostly for fun and is not the grande finale for this bike.

and I am joking about the leathers of course. still gratefull. /me bows down to the crustyrider.

 

well, there was only a few snags. for 1 I am an obgyn for a lving, and now my hands are covered on paint. I may half to reschedule any pap smears til later in the month.
there was a SHITLOAD of orange peel already present directly after shooting the final coat, so we all know where that is leading. but once again, this is a "fun" project not a permanant one.
I for one will be happy once she is no longer teal and pink and just all white.
After that, we take her to flynvfr to get the final job done, and hopefully incorparate the design that vfrhusband drew up for us about a million years ago, on page 1 or 2 of this thread.
night all.

 

If you need a stand in at work without paint on the hands I might be able to make myself available (amatuer OBGYN...............................ound::rofl:)

 

Whatever about all the OBGYN crap. I am just stoked she is finally gettin somewhere. YAY!!!

 

On closer inspection this morning the paint looks pretty darn good if I do say so myself.
Tomorro is my day off, and its filling up pretty quick, but if possible I might get the tank done tonight as well.

 

its looking good bro.... I now must repaint mine.....

 

Who likes strippers?

Me and Bweiss thats who!*



This stuff works great...





*DO NOT USE THIS ON ANYTHING BUT METAL. IT CUT THROUGH EVERYTHING IN 5 MINUTES. THIS WOULD DESTROY YOUR PLASTICS

 

Ok we are ready for prime and paint and clear coat guys.

I know I will catch some flack from some of you for taking the tank down to the metal,but this bike and that paint and those decals have seen some really hot sunny days baking into something that wouldn't sand off with no power tools. I am pleased with that brand of stripper, and would use it again.... but I would be very cautious with it.



I am posting this as I wait for the first coat of primer to dry.
I don't know if this is always the case but that metal is eating up way more primer then the plastics did. I don't know if its cause its metal or because its a bigger surface area.
Anyways, will post after everything is sprayed, and once more after the bike is re assembled.

 

Well. Everything was peachy keen, but now..............
dun dun duNNN!

The clearcoat is screwing up the parts I painted last night. wrinkling it up.
The parts I painted tonight and clear coated look fine, but the panels from last night, not so good.
Luckily I have plenty of sandpaper and paint leftover. ARGH.

Will report back soon.

 

after a few minutes of research, I found the problem to be this.

You have to add more coats ( paint or primer or clear ) within 1 hour, or you have to wait for 48 hours.

I did not let it cure, and now I am suffering the consequences ( RTFM!!!!! )

The good news is this - the tank and front fender are looking great, primer base, clear. Thess are the two parts that render the bike unridable.

The side panels, well it will be another evening of resanding, and repainting. I over bought in supplies, and I have some time this wek. She will be ridden tomorro, just dont get closer then about a foot and a half or you will see some cracks in the paint on the side panels.

Hrm.. I went out to take pictures and realized the the only parts affected by this problem are the parts that you dont really see, the parts where the chemicals might have pooled together a little bit... seeings as how this bike is going to be professionally painted in the near future, I might just assemble it as is and reassess if anymore work needs to be done... quite frankly I dont care if the lip of the side panel that goes under the seat has some anomolies.

great



good



damnit.

 

look at this Download paintdefectguide.pdf from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way


more than likely you used an incompatible primer (looks like lacquer) or it wasn't fully cured. Been there, done that. Would suggest a resand do-over (not trying to be a dick). I recently used Rust-Oleum plastic primer which claims to be compatible with all enamel, urethane and lacquer top coats. Look at your labels for the color coat and the clear coat. They ALL must be the same variety (urethane or lacquer) and you must let them set up completely (i.e, 4-5 days).

what happened is that the layers were incompatible and not fully cured, and when the solvent in the next layer hit the layer below it softened the layer below. enamels and laquers dry at different rates and then the lacquer dried at at different rate than the urethane, it caused the blistering. Check the link (it's a paint defect guide) and change to 100% compatible paints.

I double the cure times on each layer to be certain (usually 4-5 days). between each coat, go 20 mins.

 

Your advice is most welcome.

If what you are saying applies to my situation, then my beautiful looking tank might look like poo in the morning as well.
Or mayhaps the clearcoat is the offender.
Will read your link, read my labels, and report back... I have time to kill in hopes of reassembly.
So far none of the ugly bits will show upon re assembly, but it could also be a matter of time if my chemicals match your hypothesis.

 

Ok, eye poker.
The link you provided is not only helpful, but makes me hopeful.
I have a "lifting" problem, and it _may_ not affect the tank and fender ( the two parts that I really dont want to have to do again ). It stil may as well, but only time will tell.
If I can get away with just redoing the sides, we are talking about very little work. That would mean that my original thought about waiting too long ( or not long enough ) between coats was true. Tha is noted in the article as a possible cause.
If your other idea ( same symptoms, differant cause ) is true in this affect, then I am boned and the whole project is a redo.... luckily all the adhesive is gone already, so most of the hard work is done.
This cheap ass paint doesnt tell me what it is, except for the clear coat, that is acrylic - it is noted on the can, the other cans do not make such a notation... I fear your idea may be true, but as its the end of the night for me I will just wait and see what happens.
thanks for the info brother, whether the whole bike is a redo or just the side panels, at least I am in the right direction now.
-C

 

acrylic usually means laquer - when it's drying it's dragging on the layer below (more than likely urethane/enamel) hence the cracking. If they havent cracked now, they prob wont, but I wouldnt add any more clear to the equation. let the whole thing set up for a month before attempting a wet sand and polish. On the cracked part, sand down to zero and start over will all of the same paints.

folks rag on color-rite being "expensive" but all of their layers (primer, color, top and clear) are compatible.

 

ok. beta, your input was well grounded, but I think that I left out one detail in my progress that might have made a differance on your conclusion, and as I reassemble the bike I am remembering it.
The side panels that I did last night, although they looked great, had a few spots that looked a little less white... they didnt look green by any stretch, but a little less white.
So when I shot the tank and the fender today I touched those panels up, before I clear coated the whole mess.

After reading your PDF, and trying to figure out if I mismatched chemicals ( other then nicotine and beer ) I am seeing that the parts that are having the problem ( and only on those areas I resprayed ) are fitting the description that your link provided. This is a case of operator error. It says to recoat within 1 hour, or to wait 48 hours. I know I mentioned this before, but now I am seeing that the areas affected are the ones that match that criteria. Luckily for me, those areas are ones that I missed while painting because they aren't exposed when assembled. There is a little bit of bleed over, but side panels can be redone when and if I get another day off in the near future. I am crossing my fingers that I am right on this one, as I re assemble it.
If I wake up tomorro morning and the whole bike looks like a crocodile's skin, well then maybe its time for an all chrome motoguzzi, cause I really dont want to paint the whole thing again, whilst needing to ride it to and from work.
final ( I hope ) pics in about an hour people!

And then we do it right with flyn after SLO.

 

color-rite. I will remember that. Mixing and matching brands was probobly my first mistake.

-temporary signature "in soviet russia, bike paints you"

 

I made all the mistakes that you and 'tone recently did... I guess I should take some time and write a "rattle can" thread and post the PDF etc... while I am not a professional painter, no do I play one on TV, I have made probably all of the mistakes... the guide is a MUST READ for anyone before they spend $1 on a painting project. It is very specific as to what can go wrong (and does).

 

the garage floor is covered in paint.

the house smells like gasoline.

I had to borrow the neighbors 8m allen wrench.

I just pulled an all nighter, and I am in need of a nap.

( only thing left is to put the spedo cable holder/gromet back thru the fender, but I will deal with that after the paint is fully cured )

But here she is!

 

Lookin GOOD man :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: