overVolt after R/R replaced

Sorry, not the feed from the brake switch, the feed to the brake switch, slight slip of the tounge:tongue: ...

 

The brake light would provide power only when the brake is activated, then. I guess you mean the tail light.

 

I would tend to believe that the circuit was designed that way. Active only when the brake light it on.

 

If your tailight comes on when the ignition is turned on then fine connect to this wire, otherwise connect to the power SUPPLY wire to the brake SWITCH not the brake light wire

 

The radiator fan circuit goes live when the ignition is turned on (temperature switch is on the negative side of the fan). You could also tap into the run/stop solenoid's output. It sounds like you were supplied a RR with a voltage feed-back circuit while your bike uses a simple RR.

To answer the question about the VFRness... It's a piggy-back circuit from the RR to the battery via a fuse on the positive line, and RR to ground on the negative side. It doesn't replace the main battery circuit, it supplements it. Its main weakness is that it keeps the crappy OEM connectors, but you could remove them and solder the lines if you're willing to spend a bit extra time on it. On the other hand, considering your electrical experience, you could easily make your own (with large guage wire) and solder it in, doing away with the connectors entirely.

 

A short circuit? I Dont think so. I have better sense than to short it out.

 

Thanks for the info for the VFRness. Do you have links for the installation procedures and parts?

 

Yes, well I received it today and connected the r/r as needed.
I soldered the four wires (red, greens) to VFR connector and soldered direct to the three yellow wires.
I had the last wire remaining to contend with. The black wire, this is the extra wire the VFR didnt have connected.
So, I ran this to the battery temporarily and found 14.4 v - 14.7 at the battery.
Then I connected the black wire to the tag light power. This was 12 volt swiched off course, so I got a reference voltage for the regulator. Then I tested the battery again, which read 13.4-13.5. I was not quite content with the voltage, so I disconnected the battery to make sure it had reset. Then I moved the black wire back on the battery and found 13.7 at most. I tested again without connecting the black wire and found 13.5 volts. Now I am confused, since the voltage seems to be playing games with me. I will be testing again today.
Summary: 13.2-13.5 connected to tag light power
14.4-14.5 Not replicated since connected direct to battery
13.2-13.5 disconnected from circuit altogether
13.2-13.5 connected to the battery again
So, I have to retest again today and see where it will settle.
I plan also to get this ugly fender cut some if I get time this week. I may be using the LED for tag lights.
I have some plans to replace bulbs with LEDs and run an extra light or two.
Any ideas?

 

I didnt see anything relative on this site for monitor wire. But, I have done a bit of tesing on it. Maybe I can resolve it. If not then I will run it with the 13.4 volts and get another later when I have more money to spend. So, I will then be getting the MOSFET design r/r. What is recommended then? I mean which brands?

 

In post #5, I recommended that you try another meter. You sent the R/R back and they said it works fine. You're still getting wacky readings from your meter, which seem to be jumping all over the place. I stand by my last.

PS. Charging system 101;

The voltage output of an alternator, without a controllable exciter field, is dependant on speed of rotation. This is why the voltage fluctuates between idle and various RPMs. The maximum voltage output is determined by the number of windings, which will become saturated and unable to create any more. This AC voltage, which remains fairly constant during riding conditions, goes to the rectifier, where it is converted to DC. This process is virtually the same for any rectifier. It uses diodes to create pulsating DC, by adding the two reverse parts of the AC. Any remaining AC (ripple) is generally removed by the use of a capacitor, that sends it to ground. The actual cleanliness of the DC output is determined by quality of the components used.

The magic, or witchcraft, as Skimad likes to call it, begins with the regulator. We use this term, because we don't know which components are actually used for these units. The regulator has two jobs in our application. Maintaining the voltage and the charging current. In riding conditions the voltage should remain fairly constant. If the output at 5000RPM is 14 VDC, this should not change no matter what the state of the battery is. This is usually done by a zener diode, that simply shunts any over voltage to ground. This components failure, is what would cause one to get high voltage readings. The biggest part of the puzzle is how it regulates the current. It doesn't really matter how, but suffice to say that it will reduce the current when the battery is at or near full charge. If this part of the circuit fails, you will not get a high voltage reading, but you will still get an overcharging situation.

PPS. The monitoring wire appears to provide a voltage feedback to the current regulating circuit. The connection location of this wire is vital to the proper operation. *voltage is not constant in a series circuit* If there are any other loads on the circuit, a true reading will not be applied.

PPPS. Most of the R/R failures reported are due to melted connectors. This is due to poor maintenance, rather than actual R/R failure. Corrosion acts as a resistor that basically becomes a heating element that burns out. This can also be compounded by a weak battery, that demands constant high current, which just helps in it's demise.

 

And today I warm up the bike completely and the test results are good. Wow.
14.45-14.73V

 

I doubt that two meters were both giving the same false readings. I will check again when I get my neighbors meter, though, for a third source. Thanks for your input. I have it settled I guess at 14.5V now. I think it will be stable for a while.
Now the next project for the bike: I seen an accessory panel with pics posted on the site. I would like to look into adding stuff for mine. Do you have the link? At first I thought it was the VFRness. Now I went to wiremybike.com and found it is for the r/r. Thanks for you input.

 

As long as you hook that black wire to a switched 12 volt (nominal) supply it should be enough to ensure the RR regulates its output voltage properly. I would suggest avoiding the direct battery feed and using the tag light feed instead. I am guessing the non-standard RR, which you have fitted, carries out some sort of voltage check on the volts detected on the black wire, and then uses it to continuously adjust the volts it feeds to the battery so they stay within the range the bike can live with. The acid test is to fire up the bike and monitor the voltage at the battery terminals at tick over and again at 5,000rpm . As long as it does not go over 15.5 volts then it looks like its problem solved. If the volts are still up around 17 volts at 5,000rpm then shut the bike down asap and don't use it until you have fitted a Mosfet RR.


SkiMad

 

I know I aint the brightest bulb on the tree, but I get confused reading this thread. I got no problem people telling me I'm wrong, so have at it on these observations.

1. I've seen various posts (not only here) that "imply" the Ricks unit is not MOSFET. Here's a link to wiremybike, and it specifically says MOSFET. So is it, or is it not?
Wire My Bike

2. T/A Rocks: Here's a link for the VFRness for your year.
Wire My Bike

Additionally, here's a link on how to install it. My mechanical abilities are on par with a monkey, and I was able to do it:

Wire My Bike

3. T/A Rocks - Did I understand what you typed earlier? Your dealer SOLD you a unit to a VTR, claiming it would work, and now your left with an additional wire that you have to find a place for. Understood the R/R tested fine by the dealer, but really? They sold you a unit to a different bike? If I got that right, that dealer would be getting the royal cock-slap from me. What's next? They sold you tires but "don't worry, they're round and made out of rubber and work on a VTR?"

Despite my confusion or ramblings, I hope you get this all sorted out.

 

Yes, that is true. I originally called for a part to replace my r/r and was looking for a temp fix with a used r/r. I asked if they had it and was told they will find something. I get there and find out that it is a new one for 119.95. This was not what I had in mind but since I was two hours from home and another two hours from his house to the dealer, then I didnt want to turn it down. I needed to get my bike home, hopefully riding it. So, I was told that they are all basically the same and I could make it work. What I was not told was that the additional wire needs to be connected to my bike. So, only after riding it home on high DC volts did I find out that I needed to connect the black wire. We had even tried to connect the black to ground but didnt know it was "wanting" 12V. Then after I called the manufacturer, Ricks, he told me that this was needed and connects to 12V.

 

1999 Honda VFR800 Street Bike Hot Shot Rectifier-Regulator Aftermarket Parts
This is the link to my bike and it indicates that it is using MOSFET technology. So, this is news to me since I didnt realize that this unit was MOSFET. I will have to ask if that is the same on my 10-312 that I bought from the dealer.