Oh! Oh! Ohlins!

True, but one should be able to should be able counteract loads by increasing spring preload.

 

Which could potentially lead to preloading the spring too much and compromising the action.....just throwin' it out there. I totally understand where you're coming from with respect to preload, you would have to get the sag set right, but if heavily loaded, could you potentially go past the minimum spring length and still be low ridin'?????

I think it's time for me to put that to the pros, what do you think, is it worth askin? (I'm gonna do it anyway, LOL! )

 

Not likely with these spring rates. You'd only go past the minimum spring length with less preload, not more. But, before you would get into coil bind, the shock will run out of travel, acc. to Dan Kyle.

 

You are so right - I meant minimum, just wrote maximum I am going to check this out further anyway, It has opended up a whole lot of different ideas in my mind. I need answers, Man! Damn it Jim, I'm only a doctor! :biggrin: Starship Norcal is out until the data is hunted down and wrestled into submission, LOL! :laser:

 

At least on the VFR & F4i you can shim the shock mount itself to jack the rear, on my old VF I will have to raise my fork tubes about 4-5mm to make up for the shorter(overall height) F2 rear wheel and tire, with my non-adjustable Works shock.

 

Sebspeed:

You can rasie the rear of a VFR. Thurn motosports makes riser plates (the triangles that your stock rear shock it attached to). The previous owner put them on the 97, but did no suspension upgrades???

BZ

 

Reg:

OK you started this hijack!

I keep thinking of the character fromt he movie "Office Space"

When he says "I'm going to show her my Oh face...get it? Oh, oh"

BZ

 

You guys crack me up! :smile: What a collection of characters! :biggrin:

 

Okay, the shock is installed!
Getting the shock back in was a major hassle, my back is killing me. Pics later!

 

Glad to hear you got it done - I know exactly what you went through, trust me - I've been doing that same thing for 3 days straight - just remember, once it's done you can forget all about the pain and just enjoy it. It's always worth the effort. Congrats PC - you might even get to test it out this week..........

 

Understood. IMO, however, adding washers or other shims between the shock mount and the frame is better.

a: It's more adjustable.

b: It's easier.

c: Changing the geometry of the triangle not only changes your ride height, but also changes your suspension rates and ratios. The length of the swingarm, dogbone and shock, spring rate, and the hole spacing in the traingle(or dimensions of the triangle), all work together(also in conjunction with the front half of your bike) to make your bike ride the way it does.

When you change the triangle, or even just 'flip it' as some do to lower the bike, you are changing the way you compress the shock, which in turn, changes the action of the suspension. Different leverage.

Adding shims does not change the action of your [rear] suspension. The effect on the front is another story...

 

That's why I like my Fox unit. I cranked it up the height quite a bit and after setting the preload on my forks it looked like a super motord. Had to lower the front and back to normal levels.

 

Shock install thread is here, mostly complete. I will likely supplement with some more photos tomorrow.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/suspension-articles/12688-ohlins-shock-install.html#post75245

 

Howdy PC, I took a look at the spring,remember mine is installed,and the most I could see was the back half of what looks like a part number.The numbers that I can see are 53/150/L316,this dosent appear to be written the same way your part number is written. However this number is stamped in ink over the yellow color of the spring. eddie

 

EC - I just checked the Ohlins web site and when I searched for that Part No. it came back saying the search found no products meeting your search criteria.........:frown:

Do you have the paperwork that came with the shock? I would think the receipt would have the build info, like the spring, listed on it. Just a thought. On VFR's those shocks are pretty well hidden and there is not a lot of room - you might try a small inspection mirror if you can't find the info on your paperwork.

 

Eddie, I think the 150 refers to the spring rate, 150 Newton-meters. This should be about right for your weight. I checked the VFR with my 170 N-m shock and I have about 10-12mm static sag using a fairly rough measurement. More accurate measurements to follow today. The spring feels "right" to me...

I am wondering if your spring is the correct one for your shock.

 

OK guys, continued thanks for your help. Here is what I know,the part # of the shock is HO 801. I did find the receipt and it states 175# rider,few times two up,mostly highway with a few track days per year. It does not mention a spring part number. One additional fact is that I have roughly 1/2" of sack in the spring. Something of interest, I read something about the triangles earlier in this thread,when I got my bike the guy had changed the triangle setting,he wanted to lower the bike due to his height so when I did the shock install I changed the triangles to what I believe is the stock setting.
My Honda guy ,the service manager at the local bike dealer,took a look at my bike after the install ,and said in a somewhat unsure tone that the arrows pointed forward toward front ,so it looked alright to him. That is about all I can tell you,so any help would be appreciated. eddie

 

Is the sag with you on the bike and wearing your gear? You should start at about 34mm or 1.33" with you on the bike. Make sure you have all the rebound and compression taken out before you check it. It's a good idea to do the front while you're at it. Once those are set you can start dialing in the compression and rebound.

 

Good to know Seb, thanks!

BZ