Need Help setting Float Level. 2nd Gen VFR750

If you have inspected the slides and they are moving freely and the jet needle is seating correctly then this is not an issue. I was a bit confused why the slides were being mentioned in the previous posts.

 

Don't know who had the carbs apart before. So do you know that the rear set has different slide springs compared to the front set of carbs? Just wondering if someone got one or both of them reversed? Just a thought.

 

Interesting point. Are the slide springs different on the front vs the rear carburetors on this model?

 

Same springs all around on gen 2s

Matt, you need to check that there is only one washer on each slide needle not multiple.

 

another thing to double check on the float needle issue is that there is only one washer on each float seat. An error that quite a few guys made in class was that when rebuilding the carbs they'd forget to take the old one off and have double washers or they'd forget to put the new one on and have a negative clearance. This would make the carb leak into one cylinder and not the others while starving the ones with double washers. It's very hard to diagnose without ripping them apart, cause you're trying desperately to balance and tune the set and it's just not working.

Just a thought.

 

Thanks for the 411.

 

Thanks for all the info guys :biggrin:

I have installed all new float assys. Each assy came with a new washer....only one per float assembly....check! :smile:

New needle jets installed...1 washer per jet installed...check!

All slide springs looked the same to me.

All slides move up and back down freely.

All floats set to 9mm. All Pilots set to the same amount of turns out. (all new pilots by the way)
I checked to make sure all floats were sealed and...well.....floated. :tongue:

I replaced the choke valve in the one carb that was running rich....checked the operation of all the others. All good.

Just waiting for some decent weather (probably Thursday) and I'll try and re-install those carbs. :redface:

 

Well done Slow. Hope this solves the carb snafu. Please keep us posted.

 

Thanks squirrelman I didn't know that about the springs.

 

Thanks IC.

...sent ya a pm btw.

 

I soaked the carb insulators in boiling water and boy did that make this 100 times easier! It took me about a minute to install the carbs.....wow!

Got everything back together and fired her up....bike idles rough....smoothens out when you give it some gas.
(all cylinders are firing....I could tell by throwing snow on the header pipes)

It's amazing how much sooty water is coming out of the cans/pipes. Must be from all that time the bike was running rich.

It's late now....I'm still working Nights so I have to get some sleep for my next shift...I'll synch the carbs tomorrow morning when I'm done work and see how the bike runs then.

 

+1

Slow, nice to see that the wrenching is going a bit easier for you - you are becoming quite the carb pro ;-) Good luck with synchronizing and please keep us posted on how you make out.

 

How big of a difference does outside temperature make when you sync carbs? If there's snow on the ground isn't it a little cold to be syncing them?

I'm just wondering because it's cold as shit in Ohio and I don't want to have to sync my carbs again when it's warm if I do it when it's too cold out

 

In theory atmospheric conditions do make a difference. Having the engine warm before synchronizing should get you in the zone. Once you get on to using a manometer and with the proper tool to access the sync screws this is a very easy and quick process.

Rebuilding is the hard part. Synchronizing is the easy part.

 

I have the tools the only problem is the 4th cylinder screw is going to be a bitch to get my tube screwed in because its way far back in there with the thermostat housing and an engine mount in the way.

I'm thinking I'll have to use a piece of the tubing to push it back in there and screw it in but I doubt I can get it tight enough to seal very well with just a piece of tubing.

 

Not sure how this is on the 700 but the cylinder plugs are out in the open on the 500.

 

I wish I was that lucky. Cylinders 1-3 are literally right out in the open. Cylinder 4's screw is only, say, 3 or 4 inches back but the thermostat housing and that little 3 bolt engine mount just make it impossible to use hands or pliers to do the job.

 

Thanks guys....I hope so too. Unfortunitly it looks like the weather is gonna shit on me tomorrow so unless I wanna work outside in the rain at 4degrees celsius....I'll have to wait till another tim to synch the carbs. (not to mention replace the rear rotor and brake pads)


Regarding the screws, on the 750 they are all relativley easy to each except the rear right one....that one is a bit of a pain but still dooable. Mine are pretty chewed up though so I got new screws and washers from Honda.

Odd that you need to pinch a vacuum line before you synch the 500 carbs.