Need Help setting Float Level. 2nd Gen VFR750

OK, OK, OK Tinki. I now tink you're correct.

I've often been accused of being an idiot and admitted to it once in court, but it's never been proved. Anyway, i was probably wrong and mistakenly based my conclusion on faulty reasoning and hillbilly logic and do hereby withdraw post #37 and all previous theorizing about needle length.

 

I ran clear tubes so I could check levels, all were very close and no leakdown overnight.

 

I was reasonably sure it was leaking from the rear left float bowl....but it was hard to be sure while the carbs were on the bike. When I replaced the floatbowl gaskets I noticed they were all rock hard and most of them had gasket sealer in there with them.

Yes....when Squirrelman had the bike last fall he synch'd the carbs for me....I hope they won't be too far off after I re-install them. (though I haven't touched anything but the floats and bowls)

Other way around....stock was 2.4....replacements are now 2.6

Hmmmm....I'm a little confused how that works.

 

You will need to sync the carbs with a manometer after the reinstall, there are shortcuts here.

 

Ugh....just spent 4hrs trying to install the carbs....no dice.
Couldn't get the rear insulators to cooperate.

I don't understand why...I never had this much trouble before.

I followed the tips on JD's website...and I tried prying with a screwdriver...tried lubing the insulators...no dice.

 

Easiest way to do it is by angling rear boots UP by keeping them half-on /half-off (photo) and starting with getting the left front carb started in its place but not fully down. Pointer on photo shows gap where boot is not fully seated and angled up. Using this method may require some gentle persuasion to get everything finally seated (photo).

Usually, the left front first, then the rears, then right front seems to work best for me.

Your boots are soft and new, so no problem there. Shmeer some lube ( i use brake fluid ) on the boots to ease installation.

 

Yea....I did have the rears tilted upwards....and yes the carb insulators are only from this past August...but I can't figure out any reason why the carbs won't pop on.

I've done this before and did it very quickly. The fronts go in easily...and then the rears sit in the upward turned insulators and just won't pop onto the intakes.

What exactly should the clamps be doing at this point? As loose as possible?

 

Sometimes it is good to walk away for a half hour and then give it another go.

Lubricating and tilting the 'boots' is key. Push straight down and the carbs should go right on. I would not use a mallet as shown in the photo above as this can lead to trouble unless you are very careful.

 

When I installed the carb assembly on my 500, I smeared a coat of silicone grease on the inside of the boots, popped right in.

 

Thanks for the tips everyone.

It's below freezing again so i guess it all has to wait :-(

 

For clarity here is a sketch of the tilt technique:



Once you have the rubber manifolds tilted as shown push straight down. The carburetors (if the boots are pliable) will go right on.

 

Thanks for the sketch IC. As usual you're always going the extra step to help out. Thanks buddy :-D

So in your illustration you tilt both front and rear carbs upwards?

I was tilting the rear upwards but the fronts I secured in. I then got the front 2 carbs pushed into the rubbers but the rears would just sit in the upward tilted rubbers at an odd angle...and no matter how much I pushed down on the carbs or pried with a screwdriver the rubbers wouldn't secure onto the engine intakes.

 

The 'boots' and loose clamps are angled as shown (on the engine's intake manifold).

Place the carbs gently on top of the these.

With the carbs resting on the angled boots press straight down.

The carbs will seat easily using this method.

This is the Factory technique. No mallets required!

 

Heck, how you gonna get everything seated properly just by pushing ?? How much pressure can you exert ?? Only your own weight. Once i tried standing (!!!) on the carbs to press down. If everything is aligned OK there is nothing wrong with using some discreet and measured mallet force for final moves. It helps to keep inspecting all carb/boot alignments constantly during the operation. Especially if you're using the half-on/half-off method the final seating needs extra force, thus the mallet. I've never messed anything up doing it. Are you dudes trying to make me seem like some kind of a crude butcher ?? I know how to tickle a squirrel, and i've tickled a few, so how rough could i be ??

 

The 'tilted boot' method shouldn't require any back-walking massage techniques to get the carburetors to seat properly. Of course the caveat here is that the 'boots' need to be pliable (i.e. new).

My sketch above details the Factory method though I would agree that using a mallet for a little persuasion is most likely fine when this is used carefully.

 

Tilted back boot method is what I used for both bikes with me standing and applying pressure on the intake basket to finally get them to seat.
My fat butt finally came into good use for once.

 

LOL....You sat on the carbs?