My RC24 resurrection

^^ I will check mine again, but that looks like the way I placed mine. Thanks dude! I just had a forum member spot that the shop mounted my rear tire backward, so indeed 2 steps forward and 1 back. hahahaa

Oh and i like to use a little silicone lube on the metal hose connections to make the fitment a little easier for all of my hoses. I only place it on the metal and not in the hose. That way it should not contaminate coolant or fuel depending on hose type. Only takes very little as well. Essence of silicone lube?

 

Is exactly why I mount and balance all of my own tires.

Hmmmm.... can I please pay you to have the lot boy scratch my rim and mount the tire backwards? No thanks.

 

lol. yeah, I don't have a real shop or space for a machine. I am already trying to find a welding machine to fit into the minimal space, plus wiring. It was an OG that put on my tire and I think I freaked him out about scratches that he mounted it backward...sheesh I will just send my stuff to Capt80's Honda Shop.

 

I don't have a machine, and I don't have room for one either. Well, I should say, I don't want to lose any space where it would need to be bolted down. I lay out a moving blanket, put on my knee pads and get to work with irons and rim protectors. The hardest part is usually breaking the bead, which I use my hydraulic press for.

Michelin radials almost fall on and off.

 

Boys, I’m working in my back garden! No kit except a couple of tool boxes which I have to carry out from the shed!

My wheels are in a bit of a state. The tyres are completely shot and need to come off. The wheels are the original white, which to be honest, I don’t like. I’ve seen the American interceptor colour scheme with the same candy wave blue as I have, but silver wheels. So think I will get my wheels powder coated in that colour instead.


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Yes, Silver / Grey looks great on that scheme. Have you seen brochures for that scheme with white wheels in your market?

Edit: I came a cross a few pictures. What a strange choice. That needs to be rectified like you said.

 

So my bike is originally a Japanese market bike. Rarely mentioned when I’m trying to search up for components. I really like the blue but the white wheels don’t look so good. Seems to accentuate the smaller front wheel. When he owned it, my brother put a black seat cover on it, so I think the silver wheels with an original grey seat would look great. Not original for this bike but I think would look great.

TBH, I’m still a very long way from worrying about colour schemes! Need to get it mechanically sound first.


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Here’s the paint code sticker.




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Then you will have nice new bearings to boot! Agreed on color choice.

 

The good news: she lives!

https://youtube.com/shorts/EzZgR8cpqAA?feature=share

The not so good news: big fuel leak from carb 2, and the fuel pump doesn’t work. Had to feed fuel directly into the carbs.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-zwUaqxwHtA?feature=share


Two steps forward, one step back!


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All right! Are all of the muffler parts on? She sounded kinda raw, but phone videos never do justice to motorcycles.
Might just be a stuck float or if it is super knarley could be a cross tube crack. The other dudes would know better.
Getting it running was half the battle.

 

Yes, all muffler parts on but I don’t know what the internals of the muffler are like. Seems a bit of a knock, so maybe clearances on the cams need looking at? Didn’t get around to it.

I did check the float heights on reassembly, but might have got that wrong!? Got a horrible feeling I’m taking everything off again, but will give the float bowl a tap with a rubber mallet. If the float is stick, where would the fuel be leaking from? Doesn’t seem obvious to me. Is there a drain hole?


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After rebuilding the carbs on RC26, I had a fuel leak and it turned out to be a hairline crack in the fuel tube. You couldn't see it AT ALL unless you put pressure on the tube. I really should have expected it, as the previous owner of the carbs and engine tried pulling the carbs by removing the plenum first and yanking on things. You will get a cracked tube almost every time that has happened.

I know you didn't do that. My point is the tubes are now brittle and fragile, so keep that possible culprit in mind.

 

Forgot to mention about the fuel pump. I tried to prime the carbs using the jump wire across the relay terminals, but it didn’t work. The pump was very hot but unfortunately I didn’t have a colt meter so couldn’t check, but it seems like I need a replacement.


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You know what, I think you might have identified the issue.

When I stripped it down, one of the tubes was broken, but on the other side of the o ring (where it goes into the carb body). Should have dealt with it at the time but thought it would be ok. Damn. Oh well, will get them off tomorrow and have a look.


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I have never had to adjust the floats on any set of V4 carbs I've worked on. Usually when someone says they had to, it means they are checking them wrong. Again I'm not saying you did it wrong, but there a a couple things to consider. You can't check them with the carbs just flipped over on the bench. They have to be rotated so you are checking them when the needle is just contacting the float tab, but not depressing the little spring loaded button. If flipped over on the bench, the weight of the float will depress the button and give you a false reading. Making a measuring tool is also nice. Squirrelman cuts notches out of old credit cards at the right height to make it easy. Handy little tool when you are holding the carbs at a weird angle.

Good luck! And yes, the carbs are probably coming out again. The good news is you've done it recently.

 

Oh and give the pump a good whack with a handle too. Even if it works then, you should probably replace, but will be nice for trouble shooting the carbs in the near future.

I recently brought one "back to life" that way. It was making strange sounds and leaking a bit, but I was able to at least run the bike and verify everything else before replacing it.

 

Ok, cheers mate. When checking the float height I used the method on V4 dreams, using a steel rule. To be honest, it felt a bit hit and Miss, but they were not miles out and seemed to be the 7mm described in the workshop manual. Assuming the float bowl gaskets are ok, where would the fuel actually be leaking out the carbs from?

when I take them off tomorrows, I will attach the gravity feed fuel tank and see if that shows me where the fuel’s coming from.
Thanks for all your help guys, much appreciated. Really glad the bike is running at least. I guess I was always going to have a few problems.

 

Your off the bike gravity feed should tell most of the story on the leak. I have photos in my thread about float height since I had the same questionable measuring concerns. Mid-thread page. GL and keep pushing. You will get it.
If you have a chance and see one available, I am still looking for a service manual for my actual year and model from the UK.

 

My bet is a cracked fuel tube. If it was stressed enough to somehow break off where you said it did, both fuel tubes are now suspect.