My RC24 resurrection

Focussed on the cooling system today, following the recommendation on here to change the gaskets on the caps that sit underneath the carb unit. Also wanted to have a look at the water pump to make sure it was in ok condition and that the pump vanes were all intact. Just lots of mucking about and what I thought would be a couple of hours, ended up being 6!

Main issue from the off was that I couldn’t get the water pump cover off, and I ended up taking the whole into out! . So I’m going to need to order the oil seal as I’d disturbed it. Oh, and of course ended up draining oil everywhere! Was going to obviously do an oil change at some point, just not today. Anyway, will aim to get all that sorted on Monday.


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New cap gaskets in.


New o rings on the ends of the cross tube.


Oops! Oil everywhere.


The exterior is not up to much, but the inside of the pump looks ok.


Thermostat gasket changed and gave the system a little flush.


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Re: the bench sync...... I do not know if this applies to these carbs..... but I've used this method on FI TB's.... when the throttle plates are closed, they seal off the opening and will not pass liquids, e.g., fuel. With all plates adjusted properly, they should not pass fuel, but the moment you start to open, they will.... so, sync via visual or paper method, confirm with fuel?

 

^^ i've tried that too but don't think it's accurate enough.

 

I've used the paper method and it is probably the most accurate. Another quick method to get the sync close is to back the idle speed screw all the way off and adjust the other carbs until the base carb is completely closed, then go to each other carb in sequence and adjust until each one is completely closed. You can check if the other carbs are slightly open by pressing on the butterfly to see if there is movement. It will move if not fully closed because the counter-spring at the sync screw will deflect allowing the butterfly to close when pushed. Once all carb butterflies are adjusted to be fully seated then you're done and the idle speed screw can be readjusted to estimated idle speed.

 

Really frustrating at the moment. I ordered some parts last week, including the oil seal for the back of the water pump, but with the Platinum Jubilee Bank Holiday, nothing’s arrived. I was hoping to get the engine running before moving onto other things. I had a spare hour this morning, so I’ve cleaned up the water pump cover and removed a load of built up calcification on the pipe junction. Looks like it used to be black too, so a quick rattle can primer and black spray to neaten it up. Have the main pump body a wet and dry rub too, but that looks like it was not painted originally, so have left it. One of those very tiny jobs that when compared to the rest of the work that needs doing, is a bit like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. Oh well, it’s something.




If the seal doesn’t come then I’m going to start having a poke around the rear brake, get the real wheel off and start thinking about refurbishing the brake disc and new rear pads. Onwards.


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If you haven’t done it before it’s worth looking at the radiator and cleaning it out …you don’t need any parts for that

 

Cool, thanks. Do you mean by taking off and flushing through with water?


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Yes, flush it, fix bent fins and paint it

The lower mountings are often corroded so you may need to modify the them

 

Spent a bit of time doing a bench carb sync, using the paper method, before installing new carb boots and getting the carbs back on. Took a good couple of hours, getting my head around it and I had to resort to a heat gun to soften the 1 and 3 carb boots. Looks like they are seated ok. So just waiting for the water pump oil seal and then I can see if I can fire it up.

There’s about 25 hours’ work under there, that if I’ve done everything right, won’t be seen again. At least, not by me.


New boots!


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Hell yes. Nice work. It will be all worth it and you will never have to worry about it again, providing it is stored properly when not in use.

 

hard to tell from photo, but the carb boots may not be indexed properly since i don't see the small relief cut for the projection on the carb. clamps look good however.

relief cuts must be at the 12 o'clock position.

wacha think, captain ?

 

I did make sure they were correct before installing and made sure the word ‘carb’ was in the right orientation. Could they have spin while installing?


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Just realised that the photo I took above was before I moved them to the correct position, as I had the word ‘carb’ at the 12 0’ clock and not the cutout. Realised my mistake after looking again at the workshop manual, so pretty sure I’m good.


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not likely

 

A couple more hours this evening. Finally installed the water pump with new oil seal and cover gasket. Then new fuel lines and fuel filter, with the fuel pump mounted in a new rubber. Tank back on, with new mounting rubbers. Oil change at the weekend and then will fire her up.





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When you go to fire, jump the relay plug to prime the carbs. Otherwise you have to crank and crank and crank.

Also, rap on the carbs with a screwdriver handle or a chunk of wood a little as they are filling up. Sometimes floats don't like to release and come up initially when they are fully extended on empty carbs, and they need a little "shock" to help. Doesn't happen often, but it can.

Nice work!!

 

I wish I was keeping closer tabs on this thread. You are doing exactly everything I just did over the last 4 months. Shit I could have sent you my parts list ready to buy. My bad. Not like I haven't been on the forum or anything. I use Squirel Man method of carb sync. It just seemed intuitive and worked a charm on the Hawk and the VFR. GOOD work dude!

I know the feeling. I am still trying to move forward and there has been a roadblock at every turn. Just keep pushing and the bike will be fun and you learned a whole hell of a lot.

By chance do you have a reference photo for the thermostat? The only data I can find is "place the pin hole bypass properly". No pictures, no info and I was not smart enough to look when I removed the old one. It really shouldn't matter, but maybe it does.

Keep up the good work.

 

Check out my thread. Squirel talked me into oil cooler and radiator "fixing".

https://vfrworld.com/threads/the-vfr-that-wasnt-but-now-is.59845/page-17

Starts at Line 321. A good beer, some tunes, some funny if you have any like SM and go for it.

 

Thanks mate! Appreciate the comments. Learning a lot and making mistakes. I put a comment on the 1st Gen FB group about fuel hose diameters, as I had 8mm dia tube I bought from wemoto. It was however really hard to get onto the fuel pump, even when softening the ends with heat. Turns out the OEM lines are moulded from 8 to 10mm dia, so I need to buy a reducer. Another job which won’t take long but 2 steps forward, one back!

This is the only pic I took when replacing the gasket on the thermostat. Was easy enough to do. A couple of bolts and seemed to engage in one direction only.




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