My RC24 resurrection

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Wheezy, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It doesn't have to be 2 left or 2 right carbs. You can also accomplish this by removing the furthest out L & R carbs without having to remove the linkage arm from the 2 remaining center carbs.

    Sometimes it's nice not to mess with the tiny circlips or cotter pins.
     
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  2. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ^^ +1
    Not sure if I missed it, insulator boots..Change em. :)
     
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  3. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    A pretty rubbish day a work, so a bit of therapy by starting the process of cleaning up the outside of the carb bodies. Quite a nice way to switch off and to start getting my head around all the components. Still a long way to go.
    [​IMG]


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  4. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    so much better! Nice!
     
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  5. straycat

    straycat Member

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    smart move to get the outside as clean as possible before you crack them open
     
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  6. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    That was @RogueRC24 top tip. Thanks for all your help everyone. Feeling a bit more confident about it.


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  7. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    While I’m waiting for the parts to arrive from Joe at V4 dreams, I’m going to spend today trying to clean the chassis, sub-frames and components from the built up muck, that has accumulated over the years. I’m also going to start tackling the tank. I need to drain it today and I’m going to start trying to clear out the rust from inside. Depending on how bad it seems will determine whether I leave it at that, or send it off to be coated by a company.

    The tank has a ding in the top where it looks like something heavy has fallen on it. It doesn’t look big enough to have it pressed out from the inside. Would you guys recommend filling it and sanding smooth? It’s about 1.5” across. [​IMG]


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  8. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    The ding lost above the waist line of the tank so filling it should be OK

    Reverse electrolysis is the way to clean the inside
     
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  9. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Another two steps forward, one step back, kind of day.
    Started off by spending an hour or so wiping down the engine block, wiring looms and some of the easy to get components to wipe off some of the accumulated crud.
    [​IMG]
    I know it doesn’t look much, but it’s quite a bit cleaner around there.

    Drained the fuel tank. It still have 2 litres of fuel in there. Put in 6 litres of cola to start getting rid of some of the crud inside. I think I’m going to farm this out and get it done properly. I’d also like the ding removed from the tank. It’s not big, but it’s there.


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  10. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Then went to an autofactors shop to buy some fuel hose. Of course I’ve bought the wrong diameter. Lesson learnt, so I’ve bought the right stuff from wemoto. Should be here in a couple of days.

    [​IMG]
    I’ve taken the fuel pump off ready to install new lines and a fuel filter. Hopefully will get that done next week.


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  11. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    While you have the carbs off it’s worth replacing the O rings on the cooling cross pipe and the 2 under the caps
     
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  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    100%. Another one of those "while you're there" things that you will never have to worry about again.
     
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  13. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I’ve had a quick look in the service manual and can’t see a reference to the o rings in there. Is there anywhere that has how to do this written down?


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  14. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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  15. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Thank you!


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  16. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    So I can see you’re talking about part 15 for the cross tube O rings. The 2 under the caps, do you mean part 18 in the diagram?


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  17. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    Ok, think I have worked it out.
    So I’ve ordered 2 seals for the cross pipe and also ordered seals numbered 17 and 18. I take it that I have to remove the two caps so I have also ordered 2 replacement gaskets for them?

    That’s a brilliant website to have all the part numbers listed. Thanks for the heads up!


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  18. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    You need 2 x 16, 2 x 15, 1 x 17, 1 x 18, 1 x 19, 1 x 20

    You can purchase them individually now you know the sizes, except #15 ….Viton seals are pretty easy to get
     
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  19. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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  20. Wheezy

    Wheezy New Member

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    I’ve got to the point in this project where I seem to be spending a lot of cash, yet I haven’t actually fixed anything on the bike! Hopefully that will change over the next couple of weeks. Firstly, that pesky clutch slave piston and housing. A chap on FB has sold me an entire clutch lever, hose and cylinder for £35. Bargain. So I’ll take the working slave off and install with my already refurbed lever. The piston and seals on this unit look in great condition so I don’t need to overhaul it. That will be my main job, this weekend.

    I’ve just taken delivery of my carb refurb kit from V4dreams.
    [​IMG]
    If I’m not too tied up at work, I’ll make a start on that this week, with a view to completing next weekend. I’ve bought myself a set of JIS screwdrivers, in the hope it’ll make it a bit easier.

    Re. The petrol tank, I’m going to have a go at the electrolysis method of cleaning out the rust. I’ve bought some sodium carbonate crystals; just need to get my hands on a battery charger and I’ll set that up.

    I’ve got a new set of boots on order, and I should also receive the seals for the cooling system, so I can be doing that, while the carbs are being cleaned up.

    I’ve given myself the deadline to get the bike fired up at the end of my half term holiday, so June 5th. Fingers crossed.


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