My RC24 resurrection

Awesome. Thanks both, for your help. Some great starting points. I have already purchased a workshop manual so I’m ahead of the game there!

I’m going to get the tank off and clean it out. It’s been stood without fuel, by the looks of it. There doesn’t seem to be any corrosion but the bottom of the tank looks very silted up.


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Look out for perished fuel lines too.

You can unbolt the fuel level sender from the tank bottom for a bit more access. There's an o-ring in there that will probably need to be renewed, easy enough to buy a viton o-ring from a local industrial seal supplier to suit, the size is in the Honda part description.

 

First thing I did to mine was take the plugs out and put some Redex down the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand to ensure the cylinder walls had some lubricant before attempting to use the starter motor

 

ooops good idea. I guess i got ahead of myself. another luck out on my part. I don't know jack, maybe just listen to my ideas and follow a more seasoned builder.. lol

 

Hi all. Only just started to do a few things on my RC24. Just started to strip off the remaining bodywork and took the tank off to get to the air filter, which has come out. A new one is on order.



The clutch isn’t working. It looks like the fluid level has dropped but I can’t see an obvious leak, so I’m going to bleed it today and then see if that gets it back working or helps me identify where the leak is.

Waiting for a battery to arrive and then will clean and gap the spark plugs and see if I can start her up.

There’s a few bits of surface rust on the subframes. I want to avoid removing them completely, but might have to in order to tidy them up.

There’s quite a bit of seat rub on the rear of the tank, so while it’s off I’ve given it a light rub down and put some primer on and at some point in the future will get it sorted properly.



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Adding primer to the tank in the sunshine.


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So tried to bleed the clutch and couldn’t draw any dot4 through it. Conceded defeat and took the lever and master cylinder off and lo and behold, there was the issue staring me in the face. Complete strip down, new seals and reassembly needed. Obviously!



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Hi everyone. After a bit of advice, specifically about overhauling the carbs. I was originally going to see if I could fire the bike up without doing anything to the carbs, but having seen the state of the clutch mechanism, that’s made me realise that probably that would be foolish. So my plan is;
1. Fix the clutch mech.
2. New plugs and filter
3. While plugs are out, drop some oil in the cylinders and manually turn the engine over.

So my questions are about a carb overhaul. I’ve got the workshop manual so feel I can give it a go.

Is it best just to buy new jets and install rather than clean the old ones? The bike has been standing for 20 years?

Are any of the jets more important than others? Are there jets that I should just leave alone?

I take it I should replace the rubber boots at the same time?

I take it a should replace the fuel lines at the same time?

I’ve never done this before and I don’t want to muck it up.


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It depends on how corroded the jets are, if it’s only light then an ultrasonic clean should suffice

Change the pilot from #38 to #40

The boots will be cracked even if you can’t see them, Fowlers have them in stock

Fuel lines are worth replacing, they’re cheap and easy to replace

I did mine a year ago and it’s straight forward as long as you don’t rush it

Take lots of photos

There’s a tutorial @V4dreams.com

 

For the effort involved trying to clean the pilot jets, I'd say just buy new ones. Main jets are comparatively big and much easier to unclog. Don't forget a new fuel filter so you don't flow fresh crud into the newly cleaned jets. You'll likely need new gaskets for the carb bowls as these are probably hard and dry.

 

avoid using any parts from china, the carb kits are junk. after your cleaning work, bottle feed them to test the carbs for leaks before you mount them back on the bike.

be sure to drain and flush out the fuel tank, checking for any rust flakes.

 

I bought a set of float bowl gaskets from Aliexpress and they were actually a great fit. The only problem is they swelled a little in the fuel, that only became a problem when I took the bowls off again and then struggled to get the gaskets to stay in their grooves. After some drying time they shrank down again and could be re-used.

 

^^ typical cheap garbage.

for laughs i ordered a set of 4 chinese carb kits for an '86 vfr700 for $14 USD. some parts were not the same as oem parts. the emulsion tubes in no way resembled stock items, and i doubt a bike would run right if they were installed.

i did use the float bowl gaskets but don't know if they got wonky as terry describes.

 

stick to non-chinese. it is worth it and half the time the kit is incorrect. insulator boots, fuel lines fo sho. in the near future if the bike runs, maybe go for Samco coolant tubes.

 

I recommend the Viton float bowl gaskets and fuel joint O-rings offered by V4dreams.com. I just purchased these and couldn't be happier with the material quality and fit. Viton does not swell much when exposed to E10 or E15 gasoline.

 

I just experienced a similar scenario. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder using a K& L rebuild kit and I still couldn't bleed the system even with a Mighty Vac and lots of patience. To solve, I removed the chain cover which includes the mounted slave cylinder (slave cylinder gasket was too stuck to remove the slave cylinder by itself) and then I cycled the slave cylinder fully in and out by hand to get all the air out. Worked like a charm!

Note: The cracked rubber in the picture is just a dust boot and doesn't affect the functioning of the master cylinder.

 

Hi guys. Trying to strip down the clutch master cylinder and the piston is firmly stuck. I’ve started to put WD40 down to help free it up, to get it out. Is it ok to
try and knock it out from the other side?


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I attach a grease gun to the other side and pump grease in.... works every time.

 

You might as well knock it out from the other side, just mind the cylinder bore

The replacement kit will include the piston

 

Ok, managed to get it out all ok. Will start to rebuild it later this week.


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