My free 1990

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by gcvt, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Got to work on the clutch system today. I knew the master cylinder was due for a rebuild so I began there. The fluid looked very bad.

    IMG_7368.jpg

    The slave cylinder piston was totally seized and things were not looking too good...

    IMG_7369.jpg

    The pushrod was in good shape and just needed a little sanding...

    IMG_7371.jpg

    I took the slave cylinder over to my buddy's house to blow the piston out with his compressor. What a mess!

    IMG_7374.jpg

    It cleaned up pretty good and I placed an order for a rebuild kit. While I'm waiting for that to arrive, I'll be concentrating on the paint job.

    IMG_7375.jpg
     
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  2. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Sure is going to be one clean machine once you're done with her!

    Just wish I had some time to work on mine. Really having a bad case of "work restricting my hobbies".

    Riding on the storm
     
  3. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Thank you very much. I hope so. Just trying to tackle one "flight-critical" part at a time now...while painting at the same time.

    I hear you about time. This is kind of like a second job. Been working on this for over eight hours today already.
     
  4. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Laid down some adhesion promoter and primer on a couple of pieces...

    IMG_7376.jpg

    IMG_7377.jpg

    IMG_7378.jpg
     
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  5. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    If you're applying white over red you need an anti bleed coat before you go any further ...or it'll bleed through and you'll have pink blotchy areas
     
  6. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Thanks for the advice. The white is just the primer though. She's going back to bright RED :Smokin:

    However, I did think about that pearlescent white they were doing back in, what was it, 1988 or 1989? I'm rattle-canning it, so I'm not sure that would have worked out. Heck, I'm just hoping the gloss red turns out okay haha.
     
  7. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    What color code is stated under your seat?

    Mine looks like a two tone, or something, with clearcoat. Not plain glossy red..

    Or then it's only because of the fading pigment and my imagination.

    Riding on the storm
     
  8. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Mine says "R-157".

    My current plan is to spray it with Rust-Oleum 'Gloss Cherry' enamel with a 2K clear coat on top. It certainly won't be perfect but it will be red.
     
  9. Blackslide

    Blackslide New Member

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    Well, R157 apparently is "just" a plain single coat of glossy paint that doesn't need laquer on top.

    R158 is the three layer "nightmare to match", deep red metallic/pearl option.

    If that cherry gloss paint is any good, it will look stunning with the clearcoat on top!


    Riding on the storm
     
  10. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    I'm not sure I've ever seen R-158 in person. Even googled it and didn't get much in the way of results. Sounds beautiful but difficult to do.

    I have great confidence in the Rust-Oleum Cherry paint itself, and the clear coat I plan to use. If anything goes wrong in this painting process, it will be 100% operator error on my part haha.

    Amazon orders are set to arrive tomorrow and the next day - hand pump bleeder, new mirrors, slave cylinder rebuild kit, clutch fluid reservoir, etc. The fun continues on Friday morning! Also bought some epoxy to hopefully repair some cracks in the tail plastic ahead of priming/painting.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2018
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  11. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Rebuilt the clutch master cylinder tonight. Smooth as butter now.

    IMG_7386.jpg

    IMG_7390.jpg

    IMG_7391.jpg

    IMG_7396.jpg
     
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  12. MechTech

    MechTech New Member

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    The plastic is made of ABS. Ive used ABS cement with great success. The solvents effectively weld the broken pieces together. Ive even used it to reattach broken attachment points. Much better than any epoxy.
     
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  13. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    I think you're right here; I've been doing a little more research on this. And, I do need to reattach both of the tail section tabs near the tail light.
     
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  14. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Crap, this is the Reg/Rec to Alternator connection, isn't it? :mad:

    IMG_7413.jpg

    IMG_7414.jpg

    IMG_7415.jpg
     
  15. MechTech

    MechTech New Member

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    GVCT, In my opinion you need to give the bike a thorough cleaning. Spray the entire bike with engine degreaser and then hit the carwash. Pull all the plastic and cover the carb velocity stacks with plastic wrap and rubber bands. If it were mine I would pull thr carbs again and clean up the valley. It looks pretty dirty from the pics you sent. Use high pressure soap and hit the entire bike at every nook and cranny. Your electrical connections look cruddy so hit them hard as well. You'll easily spend ten bucks on wash tokens. Once the entire bike is squeeky clean and rinsed well use the air blower to dry the bike as well as possible. Stop by an auto parts store and pick up a can or two of electronic parts cleaner and pull every connector apart and spray them with cleaner. This will clean and dry any remaining water. I use my air compressor and an air nozzle to help clean and dry things. Pull the plug boots and blow dry the plug wells. If your forks are not leaking you can lift the dust scrubbers and wipe down the forks near the seals. I like to wipe a heavy coat of silicone grease near the seals before pushing the dust scrubbers back down. Open up the switch housings on the hand grips and clean the switches up with electronic cleaner. Wipe down the throttle slider while you are there and add a bit of graphite dry lube to the slider. Lube the throttle cable if needed. Make sure your axles and wheel bearings are dry and well greased. The high pressure can wash the grease out of the bearing surfaces.
    I don't mean to offend you but your pics make the bike look pretty dirty under the plastic. It takes a lot of effort but once the bike is clean it will be easier to keep it clean and also to work on it. With new paint and a shiny clean engine the bike will really look great. . IMG_20180916_154349.jpg IMG_20180916_154349.jpg IMG_20180930_130227.jpg IMG_20180930_130227.jpg IMG_20180908_202715.jpg IMG_20181004_200327.jpg IMG_20181007_131715.jpg IMG_20181008_185025.jpg
     
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  16. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    ^ I want to make my bike look like yours!

    Reg/Rec and stator tested good today. Yay! :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2018
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  17. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Did my first repair today with the ABS cement:

    IMG_7417.jpg

    IMG_7418.jpg
     
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  18. MechTech

    MechTech New Member

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    On the load bearing repairs I typically back the repair with ABS cement and light weight fiberglass for additional reenforcement. The project is looking good so far and I am enjoying your blog. Keep up the good work!
     
  19. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    No pics, but I re-wet-sanded the blinker lenses and tail light while I was at work today, haha! Didn't finish though. Gonna take them back to the office tomorrow for the 3000-grit treatment. Then back home tomorrow evening for compounding and polishing.

    Also went to the auto parts store again today and picked up some engine degreaser, more adhesion promoter, and a 3M buffing/polishing kit for my drill.

    More pics this weekend.
     
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  20. gcvt

    gcvt New Member

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    Finally finished sanding down all the bodywork...

    IMG_7575.jpg

    Deleted the burned out connector and soldered the connections together...

    IMG_7434.jpg

    Checked the charging. All good...

    IMG_7436.jpg

    Then I covered up the sensitive bits, sprayed her down with degreaser, and cleaned off a lot of crap...

    IMG_7569.jpg

    IMG_7572.jpg
     
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