My 1986 VF500F revival

part #41

 

Nice!

Thanks for that squirrelman. Glad it's still available

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Looks like I am missing a few parts.

Rubber bushing

The metal collar/sleeve I have looks absolutely destroyed compared to the Partzilla pic.

Stopper ring? Not sure what that is but shares the same MJO part number as the rest of the Trac stuff.

Slave cylinder gasket.


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#41 Bush Rubber

From my memory that is a sleeve. I think it is actually like a hard nylon plastic sleeve (?). But it appears yours is missing?

It's been a minute since I've been into a TRAC system. I can verify later.

The stopper ring is a split ring that fits in a groove #16. (pretty sure... again, from memory)

 

Yes 41 bushing Gone. And the sleeve looks like it's been bouncing around in there If it's even the correct piece..

That's all I have. Trac piston with eyelet, banged up metal collar/sleeve, and the hex bolt that holds it to the caliper bracket.

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VERY common. Many VFs I've worked on are missing it and the components are haggard. Kinda like a clutch lever bushing... never checked for wear or replaced.

I probably have a good TRAC piston if you think yours has suffered too much abuse after securing a new collar and sleeve. They always had some play and slop though. You can hear it knocking when going slow through some bumps without the brakes engaged.

 

Oh man I thought shit was breaking on every bump! I went straight back to the driveway and found the caliper bracket just flopping for and back.

Took that little hex bolt out and found a whole lotta empty space there lol

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Bushing and collar arrived.

Can't figure out the collar bushing orientation though. Is it shoulder outside or shoulder inside?

And where does the spring clip go?

Also have what I believe is an ignition issue going on.. cranks but just farts like it wants to start.

Tried known good other battery, same.

Pulled carbs verified idle circuit clear and starter jets clear.

Squirt gas in sync port, won't fire.

Spark tester showing weak yellow spark..
Coils ohm 2.8

Solenoid fuse melted a few months back..looked corroded on the fuse terminals..

preventing full voltage to coils?

I Hate electrical troubleshooting

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Make sure the 4 wire connector to the solenoid isn't all melty and the wires aren't burnt.

I believe the collar installs from the wheel side. Does the collar have a groove opposite the flange?

 

There is a slight groove in the end of the collar. Must go there?

And looking at Partzilla the flange end is on the wheel side/inside.

Will check the wires in a bit.. still have to finish my shift


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Wires look ok.

One of the power leads on the 4 wire connector got Real hot, it melted the red plastic housing. But the wire at the connector looks ok.

Cranks over just fine.

The solenoid is pretty scorched enough that the black plastic surrounding the fuse pooled down at the bottom preventing the connector to fully seat.

I'm putting in an El Cheapo new solenoid for diagnostic purposes

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The housing can just look a little melted on the outside but can be melted internally so that terminals might be touching. It can cause problems that sometimes get worse when the plug starts getting hot again.

It should really be replaced and the wires trimmed back. There are plug kits available that come with wire leads. You have identified a problem and it needs to be addressed to be able to confidently move on. And at the very least, confidently ride the bike in the future. It will only get worse and eventually fail, as you have some increased resistance in that plug area. They rarely fail in your driveway.

Good luck!!

 

I could get at least some backfire with this solenoid installed.

Probably take this downtime to do the carbs in the ultrasonic and replace the coolant crossover orings.

Also put the Trac bushing together. I wonder how many of those little circlips went flying into the void upon install

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Did some voltage checks.

10.8v on the black/white coil wire.
11.5v after disconnecting the coil bracket and reattaching.. ground issue?

Kill switch set to off .25v and if I wiggle it it fluctuates.

Might be getting into that RH control and do some cleaning and cleaning some grounds

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Ok so 1.xx voltage drop from coil to battery. No bueno

And I dislike this shitty start button they have on the 500. Is there a good upgrade to have an Actual push button instead of this sticky hinge thing?

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Couple ways to go...

VTR1000F Throttle housing and separate start button / kill switch.



Or 90 - 97 VFR



Both switches are nearly plug and play, might have to re pin a couple wires to match the harness side colors. Separate housing requires a new hole drilled in the bar on top.

 

I've been switching everything over to separate.

 

Nice!

You think the 90-97 VFR should be bolt up and go with double checking the wires?

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The VFR will bolt up and be damn near plug n play.

If you buy used and they don't have a pic of the intact locating tab, ask for verification or move on.

F2 and F3 work too. I think even 98 - 01 switches work too. They are all very similar.

 

Appreciate the help Cap

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