My 1986 VF500F revival

Yes, the cables are still kinda a bitch. Maximizing the free play on the throttle cable helps a lot just getting the cables on. Then take out a bit for later if needed.

You could certainly do it that way, but checking for action with the throttle is nice, with the ability to still make changes on the carb end.

 

Is it safe to use a coolant/radiator flush chemical before I change the orings?

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Was it particularly nasty? Anyway, should be ok if you want to.

I tend to try and be the least aggressive I can. I will use a garden hose on one of the coolant hoses to push out and flush. Then fill the system with distilled water for the first run or two, perhaps draining and repeating. Then draining and filling with the proper coolant mix. Yes, there is still some water in the block, but it is now distilled and won't dilute your new coolant drastically. I have also wrapped the compressor nozzle with a rag and blown out remaining water too.

 

Yeah the first drain and fill when I got the bike was pretty bad.

This time, when I pulled the rad to get at the front plugs, I got a little more sediment. Not a Lot Lot, but some

I've been on the fence about using the chemical.. leaning more toward doing like you say run the hose from top to bottom and refill with distilled/AF 50/50

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That is how I last did it. I think it's easier.

 

My process
I always do the radiator separate from the bike and sonic bath it as well. Sonic bath the water pump and cross over tube hardware. Replace all o-rings on reinstall.

1 x garden hose - drain
2 x distilled only - drain
1 x Water Wetter/ distilled - keep
3 x eval water content and level after test runs or rides. Flush again if necessary.

Most of the time my Samco's have one leak on a random fitting. I have never had complete seal first time after rebuild with heat cycles.

I put it down to most of the bikes have heavy corrosion on the hard parts where the old hoses connected.

Just replaced cables on the NSR. F me that carb return spring is heavy duty.

Hickory smoked chicken for street tacos this last weekend. mmmmmmmmm

 

Took mine to a rad. shop. $50 bucks; they said it was pretty funky. I think it was worth it in time alone.

 

I had the rad at a shop because the original had a leak in the center.

Found a decent used one but the upper inlet angle was different.. probably from a magna

Anyway the shop guy swapped the inlets for me, cleaned the rad and even painted it.

Whatever crap is in the system, was probably sitting at the bottom of the water pump waiting to be freed

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How’s the cap ?


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Needs changed. Thank you for the reminder

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They pressure checked it & painted mine also.

 

I used Mylers Radiator repair service when I was racing. Super affordable. Came back like new. Painted as well.

https://www.motorcycleradiators.com/pages/work-picture-gallery

 

Removed the bar today to drill the hole to accept the newer VFR start stop pod.

Looks like it is supposed to be there

Need to remove the carbs and do the orings on the coolant tubes still.

Id like to change the terminals on the power wires at the key switch connector.. still getting warm..

but since I have no idea what I am looking at I am guessing the locking tab kind in the 6.3 or 6.2mm flavor? Looking at cycle terminal.com.

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Antifreeze drained.

I started taking the hoses off of the thermostat housing and remembered that they didn't fit too well, like the hoses were way to big.

Yeah they are the right size. I had another tstat house that had engine side nipples that were 4-5mm wider that fit the hoses properly.

Anyway I cleaned out the housing tstat and hoses because there was still some brown gunk in there. Flushed some distilled water down the rad neck and out the water pump. Pretty nasty

Filled up with antifreeze and ran a few cycles to burp the air

Pull throttle cable is kinked and frayed
New onw on the way probably get here next week then I can MAYBE get the fuel tank back on.

Oh and I gotta grab some vent hose to go from the crank catch tank to the airbox because I've got the 85 carbs so the nipple is at the front on the lid instead of the back under in the plenum. Or just cap the lid and drill the plenum there is a boss there where the vent should attach but it's filled

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