More carb problems

Set the carbs on a stand next to the bike and use the bypass mod to get the pump working.......




Set up carbs BEFORE re- installation on the bench and do checks for levels or leakage.

 

I'll try that. Do you know which wires I jump?

The carbs have never been apart, in all their 26 years. I hope to leave the fab four intact forever.

 

When suspecting leaky needles, two "fixes" you could try are to shoot some compressed air into the carb fuel line with the float bowls empty or let the fuel pump run for a few seconds to possibly flush debris off the float needles or seats. Coudn't hoit, and think of the time you'd save !!!!

 

No, it's NOT a 500 !

 

I pulled the carbs (again), jumped the fuel pump, and looked for leaks. It stopped leaking. And then I ran out of light. I will try again tomorrow.

Should the fuel pump click a few times, and then just click every now and then, when jumped?

 

In the bright light of the SoCal noon sun, the leak, which is now very very slow, seems to be from one end of one of the fuel tees. That, if I understand right, requires separating the carbs and replacing a gasket, and trying not to crack the tee. Is this something I want to try myself, or is it time for professional help? Not sure why the leak comes and goes (it has been fuel gushing out to, now, just enough of a leak to dampen the fuel tee.)

 

I think the leak may have started when the carbs were dry, but they have been wet long enough now that I think the odds of spontaneous recovery may be pretty slim.

 

Yes that is normal operation.

Before splitting the carb rack you could try rotating the leaky tube several times to give the o-rings a little exercise--they might swell up or move around just a little as it gets "wet" all around it's circumference and quit the leaking. They can dry out and get flat spots.

If that doesn't work as a last resort you could use a hypodermic needle to put 1 drop of brake fluid down in the back side of the o-ring and rotate it around--maybe get a bit of "controlled" swelling if you don't use too much.

 

So maybe a bit of WD-40 shot into there might help it swell also ??


It seems that if you can get the engine hot (disregarding the drips) that heat also promotes expansion and sealing. Yes, i've seen slightly dripping float bowl gaskets seal up on a ride when the engine heats up. Try it only at YOUR risk; i did OK more than once. It takes nerve but only a bit more than riding a motorcycle anyway !!

 

+1 on the WD and on getting some heat into the tees and rubbers, in fact maybe a hot air blower like a hair dryer could be used to add some heat to the joints to avoid riding it with a leak. Cheap and simple and can be done without removing the carbs...

 

Foot powder or some type of powder on the fuel rails will help zero in on the exact location.
My last leak had a chunk taken out of my fuel rail tube next to the oring and I had to scab a rail off my spare CA set of carbs.
Replace the metric orings while you are in there and take a picture to help with reasembly AND pay attention to your throttle springs in there they are easy to lose if you are not paying attention.

This is very doable, just take your time, pictures and be PATIENT.