Making Yamaha R1 Regulator work for 5th Gen VFR How-To

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by reg71, May 31, 2010.

  1. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    After seeing a thread on here from one from Ate00 http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/22563-rectifier-regulator-fix.html and talking with another VFRWorld member, Jimtt, I decided to go with the late model Yamaha R1 regulator/rectifier on my 5th gen VFR. Ate00's thread was good, but I thought I might add more pics and piece it together a little for people that like lots of pics with mods. I was able to do this because SLOVFR, another member, helped me through the process (by doing the work while I drank beer and took pictures). ;)

    -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
    [​IMG]
    2006 Yamaha R/R on left and 5th gen Honda R/R on right

    Step 1 - Remove rear cowling

    Step 2 - Remove old R/R and burn or beat with sledgehammer

    Step 3 - Put rearmost bolt in on yamaha R/R and mark subframe for drilling.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 4 - Mount yammy R/R to hold it still while you hacksaw a little off the cooling fins to allow it to clear the fairing. I opted to rotate mine with plugs down as opposed to the way Ate00 did his in the thought that the airflow might be better running parallel to ground but who knows if it makes any difference. It does reduce drilling to one hole as opposed to two, though.
    [​IMG]

    Step 5 - Inspect plugs. In my case, one of the plugs was pretty crispy looking so we opted to go with cutting it and putting on spade connectors until a plug from wiremybike.com arrives.

    Step 6 - Make new wires to patch yammy R/R to VFR plugs. We chose to color code them to keep it easy. You can see on the wires that we had to splice two greens into one female spade connector and two reds into one female spade connector. Eventually, I plan to add these plugs, but I needed something now so this works.
    [​IMG]

    Step 7 - Plug wires in to Yammy R/R as above. (Note the two reds Y'd together as are the two greens)

    Step 8 - Plug the male spade connectors into the color matched honda plugs or (in my case) spade connectors.
    [​IMG]

    Step 9 - Check battery voltage at idle.
    [​IMG]

    Step 10 - Check battery voltage at 3500 RPM (give or take).
    [​IMG]

    Step 11 - Step back and observe your handiwork whilst you consume a fine malt beverage.
    [​IMG]

    -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

    Thanks to Ate00, Jimtt, and SLOVFR for helping me make this happen. Also, please note that doing the mod this way still leaves the option for me to return to the stock VFR R/R if there was some reason I needed to. I eventually plan to add the fuse panel that I ordered from wiremybike.com also and I think this R/R should be able to handle my power needs for some time.
     

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  2. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I should note that we considered just cutting off the plugs from my stock R/R but I kept it for a backup just in case. It was partially working so I thought if something should happen at least I'd have a semi-functional backup unit. The best way would to do it IMO would be to add the plugs from easternbeaver linked above to the yamaha unit and then gut off the honda R/R plugs and splice the wires together appropriately. Our method works and is cheaper, though.
     
  3. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Reg why even use a plug? The individual wires may stay cooler separated like that also. I soldered my individual wires years ago and never had a problem since. Nice job though. Hope you didn't over extend your right elbow......................
     
  4. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    Well the main reason I was gonna add back the stock plug I cut out was so that if I had to grab a stock unit on a road trip or something I could pop the normal one on there without hacking it. I'll eventually probably just make a patch set from Yamaha R/R to Honda plugs so that I can just swap in Yamaha or Honda R/R with no additional mod. Hopefully I won't even need another R/R, but who knows?
     
  5. dehning

    dehning New Member

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    I just installed an R1 regulator on my '99 too but I oriented the regulator differently and I thought you guys might be interested.
    Looking at the way the fairing vent just ahead of the regulator was oriented, I realized that there is no specific airflow direction at that location under the cowl, so I orientated mine 90 degrees off from the way reg71 mounted his because it actually fits under the cowl without cutting any of the regulator fins. The regulator actually just touches the fairing, but the fairing still bolts up perfectly.

    [​IMG]

    PS. The device in front of the regulator is the delay module for my HIDs
     
  6. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    It's been just a bit shy of a year and I never did add the connectors. I just left everything as you see it above and I have had a single problem since. I have plans for adding the fusebox still but haven't done it yet. It should be noted that my electrical demands are pretty light. About the most I do is plug my iphone in to my cigarette lighter plug to charge.
     
  7. Bryan88

    Bryan88 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Whilst on the subject of making anything work. I used Lucas rectifier plate and seperate voltage regulator on my old 1100R. It takes a while to figure it all out, but the upside is that car parts are easier to source and way cheaper (especially here in SA)
     
  8. Mark 024

    Mark 024 New Member

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    Good job boys. Hope it sees you out
     
  9. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    One question Reg.... What beverage was the key to you success ? and does the darker colored beverage add time to the repair? I like dark beer but don't want to add any extra time to repairs...
     
  10. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    actually, in terms of beer darker is not = stronger contrary to popular opinion. much the same as in coffee. In general, darker usually just means the wort is cooked longer or the grains are cooked longer just like a dark coffee has the beans roasted longer.

    the strength of the beer comes from the amount of fermentation and that is gonna depend on how much sugar you have. I have often heard that AB throws rice in their beer and possibly a little extra sugar to bump the alcohol up cheaper. I can neither confirm nor deny this.

    Now as far as motorcycle maintenance goes, it is important to stat out with a traditional light beer as long as you can stomach it because starting out with a nice Firestone or comparable microbrew can end in more maintenance. The other important factor in my maintenance scheduling is to have SLOVFR handling the wrenches whilst I handle the camera and the beer. Traditionally, he opens his first beer and sets it down to start working whilst I consume beer until I am holding the camera sideways and taking pictures of the floor and whatever else. Then, he says well, I think that it. And we're done.

    It's not a perfect system, but it works for me.
     
  11. records2

    records2 New Member

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    regulator/ rectifier compatibility

    Hi guys. I came across this thread when looking into my clock and dash resetting on my 2000 vfr 800. It most likely is just a connection I haven't been overly too worried about it, as I have been twisting wrench for 30 years almost now including college and working for dodge/ford and jaguar as a tech. The rectifier is what converts alternating current from the alternator to DC current for the electrical system. The 3 yellow wires(yellow is a common positive color) plugging into the rectifier portion are for the 3 sets of stator windings in the alternator(wound alternatively). The two other wires into the R/R are for voltage regulation(keeping it below 14.4 or so volts), so if it fails the battery cooks because of high voltage(boils out the sulfuric acid). So in actuality you can use ANY regulator/rectifier from ANY 12 volt system they are interchangable as far as the 3 yellow wires in and a + and - for the rectifier portion. The only differences are size/mounting/connectors. All regulator/rectifiers are interchangable 3 inputs, and a + and -. Most older cars mounted them on the inner fenders and they can be identified by 3 wires and a + and - input. Fins are larger if amperage demands are higher with the vehicle. However most vehicles many years ago went to internal (in the alternator) regulator/rectifiers, so finding external R/R's are a little harder. Bikes are easier and R/R's can be found at most bike wrecking yards. Just wanted to throw this info out for everyone since there are so many great contributors to the posts and just want to give out some free info, and save everyone some money, since ANY regulator/rectifier from a 12 volt system will work.
     
  12. crewwolfy

    crewwolfy New Member

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    Records, totally agree. However, the OEM 5th gen R/R is one of those universal styles, and is known to fail. I believe the R1 R/R has been a reliable example, hence the popularity. I also elieve there are different technologies employed within different R/Rs (mosfet), not present in all R/Rs, which may be tied to reliability.
     
  13. records2

    records2 New Member

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    Good to know about the R1 regulators(certain year specifically of R1???). Does anyone know if they are more affordable than the stock honda RR's??? RR info is good to know if your ever stranded in small town no where and you need to do something in a pinch. Yaa the mosfets supercede the older diode trios, I beleive however the only difference is that the mosfets are cheaper to produce and smaller than the older diode trio's. Computer technology(computers also run at 12 volts) has had some trickle down to other areas of elecrical engineering as well.

    This is a great thread anyone else had any other stories of types of RR they have swapped out that are more affordable, or just as good as stock, or fit well and work out fine?? I would like to know more from others if anyone has some stories to tell?? Cheers Russ
     
  14. dehning

    dehning New Member

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    For the record, the regulator I installed on my bike is a 2004-2006 R1 regulator. As I said above, it is possible to tuck it under the fairing without trimming the fins - JUST.

    I have not had a single problem with the bike since doing the upgrade, I'm VERY happy with the result.

    BTW, I believe these units are more than just rectifiers, I believe they keep the output voltage capped at 14.8V (?) also.
     
  15. crewwolfy

    crewwolfy New Member

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    Mine's also an 04-06. I did a little bit of fin trimming, just so I could use the same bolt hole. I've had other electrical issues since my install (FI light, dead speedo) which I'm currently investigating, but likely unrelated to the R/R. I purchased mine used off a user on an R1 forum for $40.
     
  16. records2

    records2 New Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. Good to know. 40$ is quite affordable and the info is important to me. Thanks again. I as well have faced the display glitches mentioned, but am not overly worried. Dodge has the dashes cutout on a number of their models as well the dash just dies and then resets. I fixed my own as it was the printed circuit board cracking at one point where the connector went into the board. Just took it out resoldered 2 small points no problems since. Since the vfr dash experiences so much vibration I suspect it is a similar type of problem based on what I have read so far in the forums. Just something as simple as the connnector vibrating loose, sinle wire vibrating loose or just a small crack on the printed circuit board where the connector goes into it. Since the displays are not crapping out and the charging system is fine it leaves just connectors or a crack in the PCB causing a temporary open circuit then resetting, which is most likely heat related. I will when I get a chance pull my dash all apart, check for any loose or corroded pins inside the connector, overheated single connectors in the plug, and cracks in the PCB where it inputs power, as well as check the opposite end where the ecm connectors are. If need be take my needle files and clean any corrosion inside of the connectors(they appear to not be the waterproof type which are susceptible to corrosion), as well as undoing ANY ground points and sanding underneath them to ensure the power isn't causing an open circuit on the ground side. Hope this info helps. Don't forget a dab of silicone dielectric grease will also ensure a good connection. Cheers Russ
     
  17. roughseas

    roughseas New Member

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    I was just wondering..why not use the latest FH012? Its got a smaller profile than the one in the pics above and runs cooler. I have been using the FH014 on my funduro and it hardly gets warm to the touch. Easternbeaver sells wiring plugs & kits for this RR.

    funduro rr.jpg

    Voltage Regulator Solution! - Page 2

    Cheers!
     
  18. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    the reason I chose the R1 reg was that another user had mentioned it had more cooling surface and could be obtained on ebay for cheap. I think I gave $35 or $40 and I haven't had a problem with it since and I think I did this thread back in 2010 or so...
     
  19. roughseas

    roughseas New Member

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    Hi Reg..the FH012 is from the newer R1; just in case anyone wants to do this mod again.
    578879.jpg
     
  20. kd4ysi

    kd4ysi New Member

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    regi do you know if this mod will work on the 97 vfr750 i just put a new fact on mine last summer and it allready burned up and quit chargeing this sounds like a great fix
     
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