Is it necessary to pull the alternator to remove the motor from the frame?

Hi all,

I have an 85 VF700F with 31,xxx miles that got a mild head gasket leak and I'm using it as an excuse to give the bike a refresh. The bike had solid compression on all bores and made good power before it blew, so I'm not too worried. I think it's a port, polish, and valve and seat grind away from rolling again.

The main question I have is with motor removal from these old beasts. The Clymer manual says that you need to pull the alternator, which requires pulling the flywheel from the bike. I don't have the tool on me, as I am working on it while visiting my parents from out of state and all my bike specific tools are there. I'd love to be able to pull the motor and get the heads prepped and the shock rebuilt before I come back for Christmas so it's just a bolt up. I'd prefer not to have to buy a puller as it is a decent amount of money to spend on something I already have!

You all know what it looks like, but here's a photo just for fun. Thanks in advance!

 

I don't see why the stator has to be removed to remove the engine, the left side of the frame is removable anyways. Only issue I had was shimmying the engine out over the clutch housing.

 

Answer to your question. No it isn't necessary to pull the alternator cover for an enigine removal.

And further more

It is necessary to remove the bottom left part of the frame.
Removing the clutchcover makes it easier to take it out of the frame.

 

No but it is a tricky little bastard to wiggle in and oot, bring some patience.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, This is not my first rodeo but it is my first with the bronco that is the 80's Honda v4. I've never had to pull so much crap to pull a motor in my life!

Joep, if I'm reading you right, just the clutch cover and not the clutch need to be removed? If so I'm a happy camper and I'm basically at the point where I can pull the old lump out of the frame.

 

After you have taken off all stuff like exhaust. Coolant. Radiators. Oil (easier with the engine in the frame ;-) ) Carbs. Etc.
Put a jack under the engine. Take out all the engine mounting bolts and the left frame piece. The engine does want to tip at this point somewhere along the line, so beaware of that.
Then lower the jack a bit. Wiggle it around a bit best with both arms trough the top of the frame untill it clears the clutch on the right side. Now balance it on the jack and lower the jack some more and it should be out.

All of this is easier with the clutch cover off but it's not necessary.

Good luck. It gets easier each time you do it.

And remember the engine weighs some 200lbs.

Putting it back in. Same idea. And then we will read about getting the carbs back on I think ;-)

 

Inner Tube Protector

I zip tie a Bicycle Inner Tube over the right Frame Loop, to protect the Frame and Clutch Cover from scratches.
Also use some Tie Downs to help hang the motor while maneuvering it around.


I use a flat support board to bump/slide it around while wrestling with it.
I found I had to rotate the motor forward (Rear Cylinder top goes way up).

 

Leave the exhaust on. It's easier afterward to remove it plus you need the collector to provide a flat surface. Get the bike up on a milk crate or other suitable flat sturdy surface. Take everything off the bike...yes, I said everything. You're pulling the motor so now's the time to check, clean, paint, replace stuff that normally doesn't get looked at. Believe me, it won't take you more than a few hours to strip it and the payoff for freshening up parts is so worth it when you put back a fresh motor. With the frame bare and the motor sitting flat on something, you can simply tilt and lift the frame like nothing. Getting it back in is just as easy with one person. The jack trick is a huge hassle when you're trying to tilt the motor and lift and slip in a bolt. I've done a dozen R motor swaps and this is by far the simplest with the added bonus of getting to clean that grimy shock, filthy swingarm, check head and swingarm bearings, clean out your puke bottles, flush radiators, etc, etc. You'll thank yourself later.

 

Thanks for the advice. I was going to do that, but I am leaving the city the bike is in on Thursday morning and I want to get the heads to the machine shop and the shock to Mr Daughtery before I leave so they're ready come mid December when I'm around it next. I'm gonna go over the harness, pull all the crap, service the swingarm bushings, paint or powder coat the frame and so on but I don't have the time to do all of that right now. What's most important is getting the motor ready so I don't have to wait on it this winter break and so that I can actually get the jetting right for once in this bikes life. Having a full aftermarket exhaust system is nice on old bikes, but it takes some time to tune it. Trust me guys, I'm gonna do her up right! I love this bike and she deserves another shot at life.

 

By that I mean pull everything off. I'm at least going to pull the headlight unit, wiring harness, full coolant system and rear shock. Breaking down the frame will have to wait for December.

 

I pulled the motor! I'm under time pressure and will share what I did, but it took me about 10 minutes of active time after pulling all the accessories. Here's a few pictures y'all. Your help has been instrumental, and I should be able to get the heads and shock off easily before I have to catch my flight tomorrow morning.

 

Good on ya! It isn't a big deal with a few tip&tricks.

 

Unfortunately one of the bolts on the rearmost camshaft gear was rounded off by whomever did the last rebuild, so I was unable to get both heads off. It wasn't too foamy inside and the cams look good so it's not all bad news. Just will be more time off the bike. I haven't ridden this old girl since July, and I was really just hoping to bolt it up over Christmas instead of waiting on the machine shop. Oh well, it gives me an excuse to powder coat the frame now that it's basically fully stripped.