How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

If the max AC output from any leg of your stator is under 2 volts then your stator needs replacing. (I should be around 14 volts at idle and 60+ volts at 5,000rpm).

To confirm that diagnosis just unbolt the stator cover and have a look inside at the stator.

If you are greeted by a smell of burnt electrical windings and the windings have crispy fried sections then you know its time to buy a replacement OEM stator and stator cover gasket. If you are lucky you may find a specialist able to rewind the stator for less than a new stator from Honda but they would need the complete old stator with wires and connectors - so don't bin stuff if you are going that route.


Take your time when you remove the old stator and make careful notes (photos) of what your removed from where - as it may be a few days before a replacement stator will be available from Honda parts.

Rather than simply unbolt the old stator and cut off the old stator wiring - try to release the pins from the stator connector. Then attach with tape a length of spare wire to the end of the yellow wires. Then carefully pull through the yellow wires until they reach the other side of the bike to unbolt the old stator. Leave the spare wire in place - you will need it later to fit the new stator wires.

Once you have your new stator, carefully disconnect the connector as you will find it is too big to pull through the gap below the engine. (Use a thin jewellers screwdriver to release the metal retaining lug on each individual wire from the connector.)

Once the connector is off tape the three yellow wires onto the spare wire and then use it to pull the yellow wires back through to the other side of the bike.

Then either reinstate the pins into the connector and attach it to the RR (it does not matter which order). Or eliminate the RR-Stator completely and just solder direct to the yellow wires from the RR.

 

I will take a look at it.
Thank you!

 

My stator looks like this!

 

Yes that is dead.

 

With new stator and new regulator/rectifier it charges between 13.8 and 14.1 volts at the battery!

 

HAVING AN ISSUE WITH 98 VFR800 NOT CHARGING. RR, STATOR, BATTERY, RELAY ALL CHANGED. SAME ISSUE HELP! BIKERTOBER

 

Need help bro. 98 vfr800....just replaced the stator and rr because connection was burned up. Also replaced the battery and starter relay. Still having the same issue. Now I'm broke down on the side of the road.

 

New Honda stator? Did you test output?

Did you hard wire the stator to the r/r?

And battery connections from r/r straight to the battery with fuse on positive?

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No, I replaced everything like normal. Should I go that route? Starting to piss me off? It charges when I check with voltmeter. Until I shut bike off. This is the first time it's done it in traffic.

 

No, hooked up normal. Should I go that route?

 

I don't want to be cutting wires for no reason.

 

smart riders ALWAYS check charging system output across the battery terminals anytime the battery was replaced..... install a small digital voltmeter to keep an eye on charging status.

 

I believe the consensus for an updated charging system is to bypass the stock harness when wiring up a new r/r. That eliminates any connectors that could give resistance to the charging circuit.



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Will do, and I did check the charging output. It reads 18.3vdc as the service manual says it should charge at 4000rpms. But, again that's at idle.

 

Walk me through that hook up so I don't mess anything up playa.