Help me with my VF500!

Okay, so I got it back together, still need to get the carb boot, but there are some other problems...

1. We are leaking gas somewhere in the middle of the carbs, can't see where it is coming from exactly, but it is coming down the gold colored metal rod that is connected to the throttle wheel (moves with the throttle wheel to open the front carbs)

2. Throttle line is too tight, when I turn the wheel to the right the engine revs up, I have to push the throttle forward to drop the revs to the normal level, it runs pretty smooth down to about 1500RPM's, but below that it just sounds choppy and like it is going to die, may be that I have never heard it idle at that level... I think it may have a chance, but I need to get the throttle cables back correctly. Any idea which way I need to adjust things to get it to the proper point?

3. The battery seems to have a good charge, lights and everything work well, but the starter won't work very well unless I hook the batter up to another battery. I don't really know what this would have to do with, i've let it run for only 5 min or so tops, but it starts pretty well once another battery is hooked up to it...


Any Help is good! Hopefully I can get this running to where I can ride it again!!!



And a quick question from previous? Should I have a plug in the clear cord?

 

1. Check your float gaskets

2. Check for binding, pinching and proper routing of the cable. Also check for any places along the linkage system that might be rubbing on something like a line. The lock nut on the handle might also be out to far, try screwing that in all the way.

3. Since you haven't been riding for long periods of time, the battery will discharge. Batteries lose about 1% of their charge per day sitting doing nothing. Frequent starts without enough 'on' time will drain the battery faster than the stator can recharge; the battery's probably dead. I WOULD NOT jump start a VF500 from another battery. If the battery is deep cycled enough to the point where it won't start without help, more likely than not the bike's electronics will not be able to charge the battery. You're going to risk blowing your regulator/rectifier if you try. Just charge the battery from a 2amp 12v battery charger for about 8 hours. You can probably take it to a local AutoZone or equivalent, they do free recharges.

 

i'll head out tonight and check them out, it is getting easier to get these carbs back on each time though!

Thanks for the help! Is that part # the correct one for the carb boots?

 

clean carbs float or floats are stuck guess what the guy put your pipes on and did not rejet go up in main raise your needle (relax guys) the blow by may need new plug into valve cover after all the bikes been around a while so it needs some tender luvin care wouldn't hurt run some b-12 through the tank check your pit cock gas lines for clogs but what do i know i'm a 5 year old lol good luck my man it can be saved...................ohh by the way didn't that bike have HYDRuLIC LIFTERS// ??

 

ohh was that a hydrolic valve chain tensiner?? ya had two of those go out in the ole hurricane 600 the yellow circle your line is not all the way on other then that take it to the shop if you can't do it valve adjustment if that is possible on your bike wore out hydrolic tappit(lifter) mite be another problem. but by the way you never told us how many miles are on the bike that would REALLY HELP OUT or contact canib whiskey technologys they are awesome !! good luck

 

Bikebandit.com has them listed as 224974-001

 

bike has approx 35,000 miles on it... the carbs are off, yet again, to try to fix the problems... we will get going right, with plenty of help...

 

16211-mj8-000 Is the correct Honda part number for the carb boots. Bike bandit part numbers are different. Even after a good bench sync, you will still need to sync your carbs with a guage - mine were off quite a bit after a good bench sync. Idles much better now! The battery only charges above 3000 RPM. Under that it is discharging.

 

I took the carbs off again, checked all of the float bowl gaskets, all seemed fine, put bowls on very tight, and still leaking gas, couldn't find anything out of the ordinary...

The bike still does not like to run under 2,000 RPM's, it runs good at 2,500 (with choke on) but anything less than that and I have to give it gas to rev it up above that... Is there a diagram anywhere about syncing the carbs off the bike? I think I may be doing something wrong there...

Any other ideas to where the leak could be coming from or how to make it run at lower RPM's?

Where is the idle screw on this bike?

 

Idle screw is the black knob in the front right of the engine, near the throttle cable.

You really should get a service manual.

Your bike may not be idling right because of the bad carb boots causing a leak.

 

I bet the O-rings on the end of the fuel tubes are bad or one of the fuel tubes is cracked.
The O-rings can be replaced from this set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91512

To test for a carb boot leak, while running, spray WD-40 around each boot one at a time and see if the idle changes. If it does, you've found your leak.

Are the pilot jet caps removed and the pilot jets/washer/o-rings inspected?
example pics:

 

Well, I havn't ever messed with the pilot jets, so I don't think that could be the problem because there was no leak before I took the carbs out, so it had to be something that I messed up.

To VeryFunRide- I have the Clymers, but most pictures that are shown there I can not figure out what they are pointing at... But I am very appreciative of the help! I Do look before I ask questions, but on places i'm confused i ask here for a little extra help...

 

Plug it.

That's the OEM part number, you'll need to know a dealer part number to order them. I bought mine from bikebandit and had them in my hands in about 4 days.

 

You mis-understand. The pilot jets affect the very beginning of the throttle position (basically under 3,000 rpm). If you never took them out, then they are probably plugged up and or the washer isn't sealing because it is hard or the carb cleaner contacted it and swelled it up.

It is also the most commonly skipped part when carb cleaning. Ironic because this part of the carb is usually the first to cause issues because the fuel orifices are so very tiny.

Everyone that works on carbs/jetting needs to read this article: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/motorcycle_jet_kits_carburetion/index.html

Remove the carbs from the bike and fill with fuel. This way you can see where they are leaking. A tip is to clean/dry the carbs and then spray baby powder or cornstarch where you suspect the leak to be. Then leak will create a path in the powder and you can trace it to it's source.

 

After I saw that link to the O-Rings I called up my local HF Tools and asked if they had 'em in store. Going down there later today, thanks for the enlightening me; I can't tell you how many times I've needed an O-Ring for something but either lost or couldn't find one. :biggrin:

 

for the leak refer WAY,WAY back to when Jamie Daughtry said you should never seperate carbs from baseplate.....you may have cracked the 'T-connector" fuel pipe or dislocated or damaged o-rings at either end of T-fitting........

try to obtain genuine Honda replacements if possibe because other crap might not fit.....

 

Ok, so I got around to working on the bike again, been taking the carbs off and on trying to figure out the problem, finally took them completely apart (off the air box again...) and found out that the plastic fuel line had been split apart at the center, not a big problem, took it off, figured out how it worked, put it back on, and no more gas leak. I got the bike started, it ran pretty solid, had the idle set at between 1500-2000 rpm's and it ran find there, the problem is that when I drop it lower it dies when comming from higher rpm's. It will idle at 1300-1400, but if I rev it up to 4000 and then let it drop down dies... Some of this could still be due to the carb boot, I will order it tomorrow (wanted to make sure I ordered everything at once) Until then i'll just set the idle a little higher and ride away...

I'm still scared to plug the tube... The reason i'm scared is because the last guy had it unplugged, he called it the "rear crankcase tube" and had a honda dealership tell him that the smoke and blow by was not a big problem... He could be blowing smoke up my rear, but i have no reason to not believe him...

thanks for help!

 

As much repair as this bike has needed, and the condition of the wiring, I would suspect anything the PO told you.

The guys here are much more knowledgeable about these old bikes than just about any dealership you will encounter...plug the tube.

These old bikes are fairly cold blooded. Unless it's over 60 outside, the bike probably won't idle without the choke until at least 2 minutes of idling with the choke.

As far as the bike stalling as the rpms fall from 4K, I wouldn't worry about that until everything else carb-related is fixed. Then you may just need a carb sync.

Did you ever take out and clean the pilot jets and orifices as I suggested?

 

Plug the tube already! I have posted pics along with others showing that you will NEED 1 tube plugged near the rear of the bike. If it not then not olny will you will be spraying small amounts of oil onto your back tire and the ground, and I bet you will never get the idle just right......if you go back and re-read what others have posted ( along with pics ) and you make sure the lines are right, their will be no issues with plugging that line....

If that tube goes to the black box behind the battery it was plugged from the factory, from honda....then the other two tubes are attached (1) to the crankcase, right hand side, and (2) to the underside of the intake plate ( what the carbs bolt to)

 

I'm about to run some errands on my bike, I'll see what happens after it warms up and I unplug the tube. I'm pretty sure it'll do the same thing you're describing.