Handlebar risers vs. heli-bars

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by Dani, Feb 24, 2011.

  1. ilovheros

    ilovheros New Member

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    DSCN0541.jpg DSCN0540.jpg Parker you don't need no stinkin spacers. Just raise em up, check for square and tighten correctly.
     
  2. Parker VFR

    Parker VFR New Member

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    Hehe - I had no idea it was that simple. Thanks man.

    More questions - I had to remove the O-ring on each side to allow the bars to go to the top. Is the purpose of those O-rings just to prevent the bars from coming off the fork? I know you indicated that you always made sure they were tight. Is that why?

    btw: It does feel better. Maybe I can try them out tomorrow to see how it feels.

    =========
    Edit: Finally got to ride it last weekend, and it is much better. Still needs something or maybe I just need to continue adjusting to the riding position. It'll probably be next year before I can afford to make any new purchases for mods, so it's going to have to work for now. Sure is a sweet bike though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  3. CharlesW

    CharlesW New Member

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    Don't remove the fork caps.

    Keep in mind that you no longer have the locating tabs engaged with the top triple clamp. You might want to check that your bars won't contact your tank in the event of a drop of the bike. I think stock bars would, but I have no idea what would happen with the Heli-Bars. Don't ever drop your bike and it won't be a problem.

    By O-rings, I thinkyou mean the metal retaing clips. They make sure the handle bar stays down so the locating tab I mentioned earlier is engaged in the triple clamp. With Gen Mar risers, they are removed and not used. The same thing will be the case if you raise the bars as described by iloveheros. Since he has no problem and hundreds of Gen Mar users don't have a problem, there's no reason to think you will have a problem.
    Just make sure the bar clamps are tightened/torqued properly.
     
  4. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Dani,
    I too am short, 5'8", and like you I do a lot of arround town commuting. So, what I've done it the Heli Bars and the Sigma lowering kit. It is very, very comfortable now.

    The Sigma kit lowers the rear with a new link to the raer shock and to lower the front, you just push the fork tubes up, and they include a pair of 3/4" spacers. I did the lowering kit first and then installed the Heli Bars a few weeks later. He Heli Bars took me about 3-4 hours, but I work very slow and carefull. I was able to use all the stock cables and hoses with a little bit of rerouting, and I did not grind the locating tabs on the masters. With some carefull adjusting the bars do not hit the fairing on full lock. You can also move the fork tubes up or down a little to change the rake/handling.

    The weights in the stock bars are really not that hard to remove, just pull the stock bars off the bkie with the wights in them, then you can mount the bar in a vice and it becomes no problem.

    You will love the Helis.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dani

    Dani New Member

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    Oldrider- thanks for the comments. I am ok with the height of the bike. I have ridden a lot over the last 4 years and have gotten used to the slightly higher seat. I am torn about helibars vs bar risers vs nothing. Riding position is not bad stock, but I suspect if I go on a very long trip it will become uncomfortable. On the other hand stock screen would likely provide more wind protection with stock bars. I think I need to go on a trip that is longer than 2 hours to decide. My 2009 monster is similar, slightly less lean and a shorter reach to the bars.
     
  6. firedawg1998

    firedawg1998 New Member

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    heli bars vs genmar vs stock. I looked at, 300$, 100$ and 0$. I also am happy so far with the stock ride, but felt I could always use more upright. My friends fz1 is a fantastic long hauler. I didn't totally like the look of the heli's and how unfactory they look. Hopefully this offends no one, we all think differently. I went for the genmars, figure it's gotta help, the cost was low, install was 15 minutes and the look is nearly invisible the an average rider. finished that addition with a set of progrips, highly recommend.
     
  7. Parker VFR

    Parker VFR New Member

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    Thanks OldRider. I might come back to this, but I checked the price, and this kit is $365 - pretty steep for me at this point. Plus - I'm curious, did you also buy the shortened kickstand/sidestand? Actually, I think someone has previously lowered something on this bike due to how upright the bike sits when on the sidestand. I've never felt comfortable with the way it sits. Seems like it needs to lean more IMO. The sidestand is an additional $125. Whew. Ain't cheap. I dunno - I'm gonna think about it.

    btw: the pics were great - thanks.
     
  8. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    On behalf of the nice folks at Heli, I apologize to all present that their handlebars look unfactory.
     
  9. Waffle

    Waffle New Member

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    Hi Parker,

    Sorry for not chiming in sooner. Just came back from vacation and did not check the forums. As usual, we have a wealth of knowledge on this site and looks like they have answered your question(s).

    Hi Oldrider, I was wondering if I can PM you regarding more info on the sigma lowering kit?

    Cheers
    Waf
     
  10. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Parker,
    I bought the kit with the shortenend sidestand. I can't remember the exact price, but it was't cheep. But what bike part arn't? I will say. the quality of the parts were outstanding.

    Waf,
    Send me a PM and I'll give you as much info as you like. If you include a phone number, I'll give you a call or I'll just answer any questions via e-mail.

    Take care all.

    Steven
     
  11. Flash1034

    Flash1034 New Member

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    Your fork tubes sure look high in your triple clamp. Did you lower your bike?

    Flash
     
  12. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Flash,

    The Sigma kit lowers the rear with a new link to the raer shock and to lower the front, you just push the fork tubes up, and they include a pair of 3/4" spacers. I did the lowering kit first and then installed the Heli Bars a few weeks later. He Heli Bars took me about 3-4 hours, but I work very slow and carefull. I was able to use all the stock cables and hoses with a little bit of rerouting, and I did not grind the locating tabs on the masters. With some carefull adjusting the bars do not hit the fairing on full lock. You can also move the fork tubes up or down a little to change the rake/handling.

    Steven
     
  13. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    When you fitted the lowered rear link, did you have to alter the centre stand or side stand?

    I have been very tempted to take the easy/cheap option and lower the bike by rotating the triangle plate (as other have done). But have not done so, simply because I was concerned that I would then need to modify the side stand and find it impossible to use the main stand. At just 5'8" and 68kg, getting a 218kg bike onto the main stand to check the chain is always a challenge. I assume if the whole bike is sitting lower, then the task is going to be even harder!

    skimad4x4 - 6thGen Militia # 218
     
  14. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Mornin'
    I bought the kit for $365.00 and that included the shortened side stand. Viry nice quality, but a little pricy. To use the center stand, I roll the (rear) bike up on to a wedge shape 2x4 and that allows enough height to pull the bike up. I want to find a spare center stand to cut down but don't want to cut the original. It is a little hassle to do the 2x4 thing but I'm living with that for now. The bike can sit for weeks at a time and I always like to keep it on the center stand, takes up a little less room in a crowded garage. With the lowering link on, the rear shock preload adjustment will lower or raise the bike quite a bit. Before, even with the rear spring set to the lightest setting, the rear would not drop down. I have it currently set right in the middle of it's adjustment, and I believe I will have to take it up a couple of notches if I put the wife on the back.

    Steven
     
  15. Dani

    Dani New Member

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    Ok, just purchased used Heli bars. Now, to tackle the install!
     
  16. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Dani,
    Couple of things. There was a "how to" thread on the forum not too long ago and it included some pretty good pictures. Do a search and you should find it, I thought it was very good.

    Don't try to remove the weights with the bars on the bike, you'll probably knock it over. Just remove the original bars with the weights and mount them in a vice to do the removal. It's was very easy that way. Take your time and cover the fuel tank with a nice pad while your working.

    Also, if your considering new/better grips, now would be the time. And while you have the throttlle off the bar, grease it up real good.

    Have fun and PM me if you have any questions.

    Steven / Oldrider
     
  17. Dani

    Dani New Member

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  18. Oldrider

    Oldrider New Member

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    Dani,
    Yes, #7 is the weight. #9 and #10 are rubber thingies that produce a lot of friction when they come out and #11 is the clip holding the assembly in. You wil find a small hole, about 3/16" in the bar and the tab from the clip will be located in that hole. You need to depress the tab on the clip, pushing it inward and pull the weioght out with the rubbers attached. There is 6mm threaded hole (the bar end screws into this hole) in the end of the weight and I found a bolt to screw into that and used the bolt to yank on to remove the wight. A little lubricant helps too. Use an old pair of pliers to grip the head of the bolt and you can bang on the pliers with a hammer to get them out. Remember you have to depress the tab on the clip at first. Be patient and persistant and they wil come out. Have fun.


    Or............. Just ride out to CA, buy me a couple of beers and I'll help you.


    Steven
     
  19. Boneman

    Boneman New Member

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    Hey Dani,

    Wow, I read your post and it was like looking into a mirror (so to speak). I just transitioned over to a VFR from an FZ6, I'm 5'8" and looking for a little more comfort in the VFR ala FZ6.

    After reading this thread and a few others, I pulled the trigger on a set of Helibars!! I don't think me or my neck/back will regret it.

    I found the Helibar installation write up and it will come in VERY handy when doing my install.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/15496-6th-gen-heli-bar-install-see-before-you-try.html

    I'm no stranger to modding bikes. I spent 5 years modding my FZ6 and have already started tinkering on my VFR. You can see my work here if interested

    http://www.bonemanfz6.com

    http://www.bonemanvfr.com

    As for removing the bar weights, I just got off the phone with my dealer as I was gonig to order up a 2nd set of weights, but he talked me out of it saying that once you depress the little pin/clip, it should just slide out. He mentioned using the bar end w/bolt to help pull it out. Hope that helps (for both of us).
     
  20. Dani

    Dani New Member

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    Hey Boneman,
    I have seen your posts on FZ6-forum. Great to have another convert! I received the Heli-bars, but honestly have no idea when I will have time to install them! Not this weekend and ?next weekend. I have to say that since my other ride is a Monster (my wife's really...but she has not ridden it yet), the riding position is fairly comfortable and you do get used to it. I only had my FZ6 for 2.5 years and 11,000 miles, but it was a very comfortable bike in the city. I'll definitely try the heli bars and see they work for me. I also ordered an MRA vario windscreen, but haven't had a chance to install it. Takes more time to install than the FZ6 Puig screen I had (2 minutes). Good luck with your mods,
    Dani
     
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