Front Wheel Cupping

All tires will cup on VFR's ! I've owned '86,'95, and now 'a '98 VFR. With each model, the weight bias to the front end has increased progressively. I've used Bridgestone BT 21's, Perelli's,Dunlop 202,204 and 208's, Continental Road Attacks, but have settled into Avon Storms. If you ride aggressively and can drag your pegs through turns, then your fronts are going to cup. It's just the dynamics of the bike and how heavy the front end weight bias is. I have Race Tech springs and valves in the front forks and an Ohlins rear shock...suspension mods did not reduce cupping. Don't expect to get more than 4600 miles out of a set of tires. I wear my fronts out before the rear, but always change them in pairs.

 

Like everyone has said the stock front tire on the VFR tends to cup. I agree with Jessiah1, 36f / 42r for air pressure should work for you. My stock rear lasted 4500 miles. I then tried a set of Dunlop 220's which lasted about the same. I'm running Pilot Road 2's now and they seem to be holding up so far (1k miles). They also handle much better then the 220's. If you mostly commute you'll wear out your rear tire first, my previous sets have been almost a 2:1 ratio. Keeping the tires at the proper PSI and setting up your suspension will help get better life out of your tires.

Action

 

tires cup on every bike made from what I see, just the tire doing its job, biting into the road..., some just stand out much more due to the tread pattern. Experimenting with diff brands is about all u can do.. for me the best front tire for not showing cupping bad so far has been the avon storm..first one that has outlasted the rear! Every bike i own and have ever owned has cupped..The only real cure is live on the prairies...

 

Just wanted to say as a new VFR owner, this thread has been extremely informative! I appreciate everyone sharing their experience.

I think I'm running my front tire a bit too high PSI. Commuting in a car, I've found the best gas mileage & tire wear usually comes at running close to max recommended PSI so that is the approach I've taken with the VFR but I think in light of this discussion, I'll lower the front tire a bit. I don't want to sacrifice too much traction.

I weigh about 190 and haven't messed with the stock suspension settings. Anyone recommend something specific?

 

My 04 had a fresh set of Conti Road Attacks when I got it. Those tires handled great and lasted quite awhile. I had 9,000 miles on them before switching them out. But they did start cupping a bit around 7500 miles. Changed my tire air pressure and problem solved. I've heard your tire air pressure can play a big part in the tread wear and cupping. Good luck

 

I'm the kind of guy that agrees with people but has to speak up to let you know I agree. I won't repeat what everyone else is saying, but I will say that what they said is what I would say.

 

Unfortunatly your weight(not calling you fat!) is going to put you over the best adjustment range for the stock springs. This is a common problem for all Japanese bike suspensions. From the factory they are set up for 160-175 pound people(sorta the average rider weight I guess). I think some of the front tire CUPPING comes from no damper adjustment on the front forks. A worn tire is a Book of evidence that you can "read" to see whats wrong with your suspension. To put it as simple as I can: Your bike SAGs when you sit on it a certain amount due to spring tension. You want that amount to be roughly 35-40mm front and 30-35mm rear. The less SAG the stiffer your springs= More aggressive ridding. There is a "SWEET" spot in every spring for a specific weight rider, with the factory springs you will have to Compress them past that spot to get things Close to where they need to be. This is not ideal because you take away some of the travel for your spring. You should do some research on setting suspension "SAG", there is too much for me to cover in a post. There are good you tube vids about this and you can buy DVD's and books on the subject. I will try to give you a starting point: I would try this: Rear shock and spring: 5th adjsutment spot on the "staircase" with the "spanner" wrench(look in your owners manual at the suspension section page 138) Then you can adjust the "rebound" adjusment(page 140) Unfortunatly we do not get Compression Dampening as well But turn this screw in the hard direction half a turn. Now the forks: Only spring preload here which I think is partly to blame for the cupping. Big flat head adjuster top of forks, righty tighty. Id try 1 and a half turns to start. Best thing to do is make some changes, go and ride, then make some changes ride some more. Ahh crap, I can never explain things in just a few words....:tongue:

 

Hey, I appreciate the tips greatly J1. Sounds like a great starting point.

I was gonna "Thank" your post until I remembered the fat part . JK. No offense taken. I think 175 might be my ideal weight and I'm working on getting back down there. :blah:

 

Uhh, gotcha drewl.......I think. :crazy:

 

No problem! I am 6ft and I was 200 pounds 2 years ago, started running/lifting and Im at 185 mostly muscle now. regular weight for me is 175 so I feel ya there. Tires and suspension are my favorite things about a motorcycle, they are what makes a rider "fast" on a track. Lots to learn. They work together and when they are right, WOW. Good luck and dont stop researching the subject, as you learn ridding will be more enjoyable! :smile:

 

My original Dunlop 204's sucked!My front cupped badley,and the rear never felt secure.Get some real rubber.The mich p series work for me.I'm on pilot powers,way sticky,the p roads are good,they have the 2compound tire also.The mich's have more of a 'U'shape than a"v"(Dunlop)which I find is more predictable.omo.Ps...Go with what you feel good with,lotta' thinkin'goin'on@140and80through the twisties.Mileage makes the master.There is no substitute for mileage.Peace