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Front left cylinder at 90 degrees when the others are at 220+

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by dlman, Apr 11, 2007.

  1. dlman

    dlman New Member

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    You can have the old one as soon as I can replace it.
     


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  2. dlman

    dlman New Member

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    I drove it today with a noticeably less popping sound in the exhaust. I didn't take it very far but the improvements that I made seem to be working well. I tried to put a CPU fan on my RR and it clipped right on there but burned up quickly I guess it really wasn't 12v. I removed the master fuse and replaced it with a 50 amp breaker from a car. I didn't want to be SOL like I was the last time because that fuse broke on me. Also I am not going to use a gravity feed again. I think that I have to much rust in my tank or something but it runs fine then fails usually on the highway passing a truck. I have to get over before it dies and it will either kick in again or die altogether. But with a pump installed that hasn't been an issue.
     


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    #42
  3. JamieDaugherty

    JamieDaugherty New Member

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    It sounds like you are getting somewhere. I doubt that the gravity feed was your problem - there must have been something else going on that was causing it to cut out. I agree that your 'fix' on the diaphragm probably won't last long, I've never heard of a way that you can repair those. I'll warn you, those are really expensive too!

    I checked my spares and all that I have is a complete set of VF700 carbs, no parts. I don't want to split them up or steal any parts from them, sorry.
     


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  4. dlman

    dlman New Member

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    I talked to Dave Dodge and he says he has a used one for $40. He needs to verify that it is the same kind I have. I sent him the picture that I took. There is a bunch of carb sets online but they are for the vf500 and I don't think that they are the same. I should do a little cross checking to see if Honda made other models using that diaphragm. Then I might be able to get one online.
    If anyone knows if my guess is true that might save me some time.

    Your right about about the gravity feed. I think that I have a rusted tank just like our friend from the other tread. I am just not getting into right now with other problems. I do think that if I don't do something about the tank it might not be an issue or it might get worse.
     


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  5. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Um....not to douns like an arse, but that was not a good idea. You don't want to be SOL, which I understand, but by doing this, you have set yourself up possibly somthing worse than being just stranded. It's a 30 Amp fuse for a reason. If anything more than 30 Amps goes thru that circuit, it blows, saving the rest of the electrical system and possibly the battery. With a 50 Amp, you are allwong much more current to pass thru the circuit. This can lead to wires catching fire, or worse, a major electrical component burning up. If you are consistantly popping a 30 amp fuse, I'd highly suggest finding your electrical problem. It could be as simple as a loose ground, or as trouble some as wire with a short in it. Fuses have an amp rating for a reason.

    This PDF file has a good explenation atthe beginning:

    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb1.pdf

    here is another good explenation:

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/electrical-wiring/part1/section-18.html

    and one more:

    http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
     


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  6. dlman

    dlman New Member

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    That's good advice. I got those mixed up. It was a 30 amp breaker and the one that I pulled was a 50 amp. It was a single blade. I found the offending wire too. It was the air horn that I put in... it grounded when I was rigging it up. I have since installed a 30 amp inline fuse, a relay for the power and the button is wired to the ground of the relay. This is a much better set up than before. IMHO. Good looking out though.
     


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  7. dlman

    dlman New Member

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    I adjusted the pilot jets on the front 2 cylinders because I was getting popping out of the header that was hooked up to them. I turned them out 1/4 turn on both and the popping stopped then I turned them back in one at a time to see which one was broke. The original dead cylinder popped when I turned it back in and the other side stayed the same no matter what. So now there is no more popping but I am still getting some horrible mileage. Any ideas that I should check or check again? Do you think that I should adjust the back 2 pilot jets until it starts popping and then richen it? That would make it a little better right? If the back 2 are wrong that is? Maybe pull the carbs recheck the float levels and maybe sync the carbs again? I want 200 miles per tank and I am getting frustrated that I don't have it. I am getting 125 or so but I usually refuel at around a quarter tank.

    Also I don't know if you read the other message about the speedometer being wrong but I bought a GPS thingy and it had a speedometer in it. I was going 50 MPH when the dial said 30 MPH. I decided to mark the ring around the cylinder with the correct speed and its been working for a now.

    I got caught in the worse storm yesterday coming back from the mountains. It was one of those storms that floods everything. But the news didn't say anything and it looked beautiful all day. I had no idea it was going to happen. Worst yet I had my GF riding bitch and I had to go slow to not crash. I was a bad time. Anyone else have a day like this?
     


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    #47
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