Fork improvements for a VF1000FII?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Terry Smith, Dec 9, 2019.

  1. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Hi All, my brother in law has a VF1000F2 that he has decided to refresh and possibly use for some casual track days. He has converted it into a sort of cafe racer as well, sacrelige in my view as a long-time VF/VFR owner and lover but what can you do?

    The forks are all stock, but he was thinking of a refresh/rebuild. What have others done to these forks? I assume they have damper rods/TRAC antidive and possibly external rebound adjusters. I suggested getting some decent springs and adding cartridge emulators but wasn't sure whether they work with the rebound adjusters.
     
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I am getting ready to go thru an extra set of 84 VF1000F forks myself. I am experimenting with putting some 91 CBr1000F internals (catrdige/non-adjustable). If they don't play nice with each other I will be going with some Race Tech cartridge emulators. I know the TRAC is disabled with the emulators and I am pretty sure the rebound adjustment is disabled too (edit: yep). The oil weight controls rebound and the spring pressure on the shims controls compression. I already have some Race Tech springs.

    "Comments
    TRAC Anti-Dive Must Be Disabled: TRAC at Left Fork that is Compression Damping only: FEGV S4106 Installs at Left Fork. Right Rebound Only, Do Not Modify to Retain Rebound Adjustment All Emulator Installs Must use Race Tech FRSP S3234 Fork Springs. See IP FEGV S4104V4 instructions on Rebound Mods Right Fork under racetech.com downloads. "

    "SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS for ADJUSTABLE REBOUND MODELS Forks with external rebound adjusters require special treatment which involves disabling the external adjustment. After this procedure you will no longer have external rebound adjustment. Honda V-4 models require brazing. "
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Thanks Cap'n, I also looked up the Racetech info.

    For reference, my 1990 ST1100 came with an odd mix of TRAC/damper rod in the left leg and a non-adjustable cartidge in the right. I bought a spare right cartridge/cap and installed that in the left leg, but had to leave the bottoming cone (oil-lock piece in Honda-speak) out as it would not fit. Everything bolted up nicely and worked just as expected with no bottoming issues (still had the bottoming cone in the right leg). I also refurbed the cartridges with Gold Valves for good measure.
     
  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Interesting. Bought a 98 ST1100 last year, 27K miles. Love the bike.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    IMG_0005.JPG
    I sold my 1100 this year along with my 99 VFR, and bought the ST1300. I miss both but needed to rationalise things a bit. The 1300 is quite a different beast to the 1100, quite a bit quicker, faster steering and sharper to ride, but misses out on the more gentlemanly aspects of the 1100 which was softer and frendlier (and cooler to ride). In addition to the forks I also put a Progressive 465 shock on it, and swapped the master cylinder for a smaller diameter one off my VFR which was a good improvement on the stock master which I thought felt too wooden with less grab than I wanted.
    IMG_0243.JPG
     
  6. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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  7. cbx1260cc

    cbx1260cc New Member

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  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I know the 1300s are good bikes, but I always wanted an 1100 after assembling the first one to arrive and taking a couple out of the shop on small trips years ago. Plus the 13 just doesn't fit my body anyway and I didn't want linked brakes. Sure takes up more room than my VFR's tho, she's big. I have gone back to stock exhaust because this is the bike for when the wife doesn't want to ride her own but we want to be on a bike. Now it is a silent rocket ship.
     
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  9. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Thank You Ricardo..... :)
     
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