Electrical Loads

Philips red Vision- http://www.walmart.com/ip/Philips-P...tive-light-2-Bulbs/45431346?reviews_limit=10&

Not cheap, but 12 year warranty may justify the price for some...

Also available in 3157, 7440, 1156 and 1157 style for the older machines.

 

Huh, they have those at a local hardware store right now for $27 CAD. How many are needed?

 

2 for a gen 6, you must surely know that :beguiled:

As in, one package of 2

 

I should ... but never had to replace one yet. LOL!

It's like how I forget my own phone # half the time.

 

Heads up then, you do need to semi-remove the tail to change the lower bulb.

 

Thanks! That's good to know.

I'll probably pick these bulbs up next pay period then.

 

So - just a quick update.

I put two Philips LED tail bulbs in, they work great with the modulator!

I also installed my voltage guage. I orignally had picked up one of those "Heads Up Voltage Monitors" for Signal Dynamics, but decided that I wanted an actual voltage readout instead. I'll install the "heads up" on on my VF1000F which will primarily be used around town / short trips.

At any rate, I purchase a Lascar and finally got around to installing it. I saw others making fancy brackets to mount to the gas tank bolts, etc ... I just opted for an "on dash" mount. No fabrication required. I just marked and drilled the hole and stuck it on. What I DID do though, was heatshrink the wires because they are so small and delicate. I soldered some silicone insulated wires (the insulation won't melt if in contact with heat) to the leads and ran it straight under the fuel tank to my fuse block, where it's on a switched circuit.

The only think I haven't had a chance to add yet, is my USB charging port. At any rate, he's a photo of my mount location ....

 

What is a modulator? Is it something that is required for the led taillights?

 

No, it's not required for LED tail lights. I can be used on regular incandescent lights as well. I causes the brake lights to flash / pulse before turning steady solid.

Example:
[video=youtube;QzQqjH1m7gQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzQqjH1m7gQ[/video]

 

I'll buy a brake light modulator when they make a bluetooth one that communicates with the cager behind you and flashes "Look up, Jackass" on their smart phone.

 

I plan on doing this upgrade over the winter Jeff. Thanks for posting such a detailed procedure. I think I will put in a meter as well, wouldn't hurt. I have a lighter plug I want to install at the same time since I will be in the dash area. Got some wiring spaghetti to clean up from the previous owner that I have been putting off, will take care of it all at the same time.
Any updates ?

 

No problem. No updates. It works beautifully.

I'm using a Lascar voltage display. Do yourself a favor and get a FuzeBlock. www.fuzeblocks.com

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Do you just use this for the accessories or for the whole bike?

 

Accessories and voltage meter

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It's a good idea but I would only have the lighter plug and the volt meter. Is there an available switched line on the factory fuse block? I've never looked.

 

Nope. Not that I'm aware of, not a proper one anyway. You can buy just a relay but it's not nearly as nice or neat for wiring.

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I will wait and see what it all looks like this winter when I start the work, I think I still have an accessory fuse panel I bought for my Opel GT that I never used floating around somewhere.

 

Big thanks to Jeff for this thread. Bought an 2002 about 2 months ago and was running 13.5 volts no matter what. Seemed reliable like that but my OCD kicked in and drove me nuts that the voltage wasn't over 14 volts like everyone else's. I was getting ready to replace stator and R/R. After seeing Ann_Marie's post in the "What You Did To VFR Today" thread I decided to give this a try. First I soldered the 3 wires from stator to R/R, totally removing the connector. No change in voltage. Then I soldered in and ran the ground wires. Picked up about .15 volts and thought maybe I'm getting somewhere. I then soldered in the positive wires from the R/R to the battery. I used 12 gauge primary but I was concerned as it was only rated to 176 degrees F. Wrapped the wires with tape and heat shrinked them all the way to the battery just to be safe. Now I have a 14.25 volts while idling.
FYI - The wiring from my R/R did not have the monitor wire. So I skipped that step as I figured it was taking signal from the 2 hot leads.

Thanks Again!

 

I'm a lot smarter than I look. I made that harness for AM. Glad she got it installed and that this thread is helping people.

Make sure that you've fused those two positive leads going to the battery.

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remember length of cables loss jeff. I didn't see that in your calc