Ed’s 85 VF700F

Excellent, thanks. It does feel like a pivot, not a side-to-side wear, so I’m hopeful.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Pretty much wrapped with what I think I need to do on the bike.

Reset the valves because they were a little tappety, quiet now. Caltric gasket on the alternator cover doesn’t fit *perfect* but it seems like it’ll do the job it needs to.

Wired up a relay so the full current of the fans doesn’t pass through the thermo switch (new Honda 100DegC switch from Ron ayers). Farting around on the internet and in the garage some folks agreed this was what commonly caused premature failure.

A bonus was that I also got a relatively easy way to wire up the manual override switch that has an indicator light in such a way that whenever the fans are on, no matter the switch position, The indicator light will go hot.

Can post a wiring diagram if needed, but basically whenever the power to the fans is present, the LED lights no matter the switch position.

My only worry was that the coil side of the relay really only has the coil and the thermo switch in series, so I wasn’t sure if I would inadvertently short something, because there’s so little resistance. edit: after some more reading I’m not worried. The coil is rated for 12v so should be able to limit the current appropriately.

Straycat’s recommendation was great. The plastex has a hell of a bond to the side panel. I boned up pouring the liquid into the mold - you should make it like a muffin tin, one blind side that has the contours, and one open side that will be flat when all is said and done.

I tried to pour from the “top” and the mold just didn’t come out right, the tab is very loose in the grommet because the mold sat too high, giving it a lot of free space to move around.

Aside from all that new brake pads are in, and I replaced the rear master - it had a crack in it.

Now just waiting for a warm day to take it to get an inspection and it’s off to the twisties.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Aaaand done. Hit high 50s in NY yesterday.

Brought it out on the highway, got it inspected, bike performed great once it got hot enough - still took 3-5 minutes to warm up enough that it wasn’t sputtering.

Still haven’t gone into the carbs but not planning to unless something changes. Maybe check the sync at 20,000 miles, or just leave well enough alone until there’s actually a problem.

Will run seafoam in the next few tanks and see if the #1 cylinder is still lean at idle.

No more smoke from the exhaust - it must’ve been brake fluid that had been leaking burning off.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

first rides are always exciting, but it seems like your carbs need basic cleaning.

 

1st Gen V-4's take a while to warm up....Glad you got a chance to rider it!

 

Glad you had a good ride, that's really cool. Sounds like your enjoying your purchasing decision!

But, I just counted 2 actual problems. And "unless something changes" rarely happens in the driveway or shop.

Good luck and have fun! Cheers.

 

OK - so a little bit of trouble, I'm hoping not too much.

Took a ~25 mile round trip ride tonight. After warming up the bike is quick and responsive from idle to 9,500. Idled a bit high (2,000 rpm) occasionally.

Caught in a bit of traffic (fans on the whole time with manual override) on the highway but filtered through, never really stopped moving.

Temp gauge was about 10% past the halfway mark.

Get off my exit and come to a stop sign... while I'm moving and then while I'm stopped I hear two bursts of thump thump thump.... thump thump thump...

Almost sounded like ABS in a car, and the bike was then sluggish to pick up from a stop until I was moving again and it cooled off a bit.

Ten more minutes of riding and nothing came back...

Anyone had something like this happen?

Coolant and oil levels are fine and fresh, valves all adjusted to .005" - no noise, it's a "tight" .005", but the gauges fit in and out (using two).

 

intake valves and exhaust valves have different settings don't they ?

 

Nope, .005" for intake and exhaust if the manual is to be believed:

 

please excuse my ignorance.

 

Hey, the guy in the manual is only using one feeler gauge to set the valves - it says right next to him to use two!!!

Talk about *willful* ignorance.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Pulling carburetors today - already finding issues - missing o ring on the air tube… someone’s been in here before because one of the screws retaining the air box was messed up like someone used a Philips head instead of a JIS.

Have the K&L rebuild kits to dig in…




Trying to be gentle so I don’t bust the plastic tubes, but these things are in there right even after the clamps are loosened up…

Unsure how to get in and undo the throttle cable with them in position - can’t even reach the bottom cable at all.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Heat the rubber boots with a blow dryer or heat gun


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Thank you, that helped a lot.

One of the fuel tubes did not make it, however:



I guess I am doing the Metal upgrade.

Going to grab this set:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2035803094...o2D0Et7Qlq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

I grabbed the same and they worked well


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Well too late for this...

You always pull the carbs as a unit with the plenum. Unless you want to break fuel tubes.

Then you flip them over to remove the cables.

Then you separate them on the bench so you don't fuck everything up.

 

Ah. Well.

Honest Q - how would this be accomplished? Remove the plenum, Pull the cables, loosen all the clamps (some of them were oriented vertically) and then pull?

(After pulling all the remaining tubes) I had to yank and rotate and pivot these things like nobody’s business to get them out.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Do not remove plenum.
Do remove choke cable.
Loosen all clamps.
Heat boots with heat gun on low. (Important!)
Skillfully lever the carbs out of the rear boots first, perhaps using wood, over the valve cover.
Flip over and remove cables.

Now move to bench to remove plenum and prepare to separate the bodies.

If you want to get the plenum screws loose first while in the bike, fine. Just slightly tighten them back down for the wrestling match getting the carbs out.

 

Thank you. Venturing into the carbs the rubber boots below the chrome cap were great, and no visible needle damage.

Inside the bowls for #1 we’ve got some gunk, but the jets look pristine:



Re: the pilot screw. Is it *recommended* to pull the old one out and mess with it?

It looks like it can be done on the bike, so I’m of a mind to leave it for now, and mess with it later if this cleaning doesn’t solve the woes.


-Ed
1972 CL350
1985 VF700F

 

Seriously? You come this far and you think it's wise to just leave them in place so you can't shoot carb clean and compressed air thru that critical ( and tiny) circuit? Good luck getting the tiny orings and washers out with the carbs on the bike.

Everything comes out. Time to do it right. The symptoms you've described all point to the idle / pilot circuits anyway.

Those float bowl gaskets were about to rear their ugly heads too.